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Blown crank 1st ride on new motor?


Stomp77

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I am about to give up, say FUCK this thing and pitch it into the damn lake. I used a TDR trued and welded rebuilt racing crank with hot rods extra bearings blah blah, I honed the cylinders and slapped in some new wisecos and went back to the stock head. For the break in everything went smooth as butter. I finished the break in by the book (clymers) and then did a plug chop. Jetting was spot on 300 mains pro flow airbox adapter with a K&N plus the lid still on and 25 pilots one turn out. She started 1st or third kick and idled like a dream. I did a quick leak check with ether just to be extra sure, all was well. So I gassed up using 93 octane and mixed 24:1 using yamalube type r and a ratio rite cup. I rode maybe 15 miles when all at once she lost power and started clanking. I shut her down in the middle of BFE, and checked for lots of heat but everything felt normal. The only small issue I had was the oil seal behind the drive sprocket was leaking pretty bad but I checked it before I left and everything seemed fine. Why in the hell would a brand new crank seize up like that. I am going back over to the work trailer to take some pictures and a video. The piston and bores look just fine, there is nothing at all in my experience that would explain this, The lower part of the rod is discolored and looks to have gotten very hot. I am sure this crank is probably toast. WHEEEE at least 500 bucks down the pisser in only one ride, a brand new motor built like this outta last for years.... What is weird is the only thing that is funky is the lower rod needle bearing. all of the main bearings on the crank itself seem fine. WHY did this happen? I have no clue I thought i hit all of the bases during and after the build process, Please someone who has some serious knowledge help me figure this out before I do something stupid like buy a raptor....

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I am about to give up, say FUCK this thing and pitch it into the damn lake. I used a TDR trued and welded rebuilt racing crank with hot rods extra bearings blah blah, I honed the cylinders and slapped in some new wisecos and went back to the stock head. For the break in everything went smooth as butter. I finished the break in by the book (clymers) and then did a plug chop. Jetting was spot on 300 mains pro flow airbox adapter with a K&N plus the lid still on and 25 pilots one turn out. She started 1st or third kick and idled like a dream. I did a quick leak check with ether just to be extra sure, all was well. So I gassed up using 93 octane and mixed 24:1 using yamalube type r and a ratio rite cup. I rode maybe 15 miles when all at once she lost power and started clanking. I shut her down in the middle of BFE, and checked for lots of heat but everything felt normal. The only small issue I had was the oil seal behind the drive sprocket was leaking pretty bad but I checked it before I left and everything seemed fine. Why in the hell would a brand new crank seize up like that. I am going back over to the work trailer to take some pictures and a video. The piston and bores look just fine, there is nothing at all in my experience that would explain this, The lower part of the rod is discolored and looks to have gotten very hot. I am sure this crank is probably toast. WHEEEE at least 500 bucks down the pisser in only one ride, a brand new motor built like this outta last for years.... What is weird is the only thing that is funky is the lower rod needle bearing. all of the main bearings on the crank itself seem fine. WHY did this happen? I have no clue I thought i hit all of the bases during and after the build process, Please someone who has some serious knowledge help me figure this out before I do something stupid like buy a raptor....

 

 

if it was leaking oil bad that could have done it

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if it was leaking oil bad that could have done it

 

No, That would have been the transmission oil, I don't believe it has anyting to do with the crank.

 

The only thing I can think of is maybe a bad bearing or so some shit got into the bearing when you where putting it together.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbjUx1zSkqc Here is the youtube link to the video. I am leaning towards bad bearing from Tony Dukas Racing, the crank was installed in a very clean environment so debris is unlikely. I also poured 2 stroke oil all over the crank and rotated it feeling for crunching or catching and there was nothing that i could feel. I did miss a shift and hit neutral about 2 minutes before this happened but I do not think that caused this catastrophic bearing seizure. ARRRGHHH I hate not knowing what caused this...
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X-2 on new crank. IMO rebuilt should mean just as new, even if it was your crank rebuilt, if it needed a new rod or brg it should be to "specifications" when it ships.

I would have to agree also. Bearings on a rebuilt crank should be replaced whether they are needed or not. Bearings are relatively cheap comparatively. If all the other bearings still look good then I think that tells the story. A lean condition or improperly mixed fuel wouldn't be prejudice against one bearing.

 

SP

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