Ruko Posted August 16, 2009 Report Posted August 16, 2009 Well... review time... I got my new impeller with cover as well as an aluminum outer cover a couple weeks ago. It all looked really nice, I like the drain plug in the cover. I just got it installed last week. The impeller and cover went good with no issues, but the outer cover did not sit down all the way over the water pump cover. I did a little bit of grinding on the inside of the outer and outside of the inner and got it to sit flush. So that wasn't a big deal. Then I went out for a good ride yesterday to see how it works. We were playing in the sand... hill climbing, drag racing etc. As I said before I have a 485 Cheetah and have a buddy with a 421 Cub who I ride with. We both have temp gauges that go in the coolant hose that comes off the front of the head. He always used to run between 20-30 degrees cooler than me. Well after installing this new impeller and riding our asses off all day, he still runs 20-30 degrees cooler than me. Every time we stopped I checked our temps to compare. So unfortunately this impeller made no difference for me at all. down.gif The only difference I could tell was that my wallet is a little bit lighter. Quote
Chariot Performance Posted August 16, 2009 Report Posted August 16, 2009 Thanks for the review. Of course I would like to have heard it made a difference on your setup. We have only a few reviews so far with mixed results. Sometimes it has made a difference and sometimes it has not. Thankfully we haven't had any results which showed a worse outcome then before. As more people review and use this impeller setup hopefully they will post reviews here so we can figure out which setups benefit the most and which don't seem to care. Thanks again for the honest reviews. Jerry Quote
Chariot Performance Posted August 16, 2009 Report Posted August 16, 2009 I just thought of something. Do you have a means of measuring the temp of your cylinders and head etc, not just your outlet hose? I use an infrared (laser) thermometer gun ($50.00 or so). On my personal bike which I only use really for setups I have a 4mm cub on pump gas and before proper tuning it measures about 220 example on the outlet hose but on the cylinders and head except at the exhaust it measures 145 to 150 usually. The same on the cases. I am wondering if in these instances where the temp doesn't change on the outlet it still is cooler everywhere in the cylinders and around the head domes but really gets it's heat at the exhaust. Do you have a means of checking this on your bike? Thanks Jerry I am gonna post this in the forum to get some feedback. Quote
Chariot Performance Posted August 16, 2009 Report Posted August 16, 2009 (edited) This is a reply I sent to my good customer Ruko. If this makes sense to anyone reading please post some replies. I also thanked him for his honest review and am thankful for his input in helping me to best reccomend this product for the correct setups. "I just thought of something. Do you have a means of measuring the temp of your cylinders and head etc, not just your outlet hose? I use an infrared (laser) thermometer gun ($50.00 or so). On my personal bike which I only use really for setups I have a 4mm cub on pump gas and before proper tuning it measures about 220 example on the outlet hose but on the cylinders and head except at the exhaust it measures 145 to 150 usually. The same on the cases. I am wondering if in these instances where the temp doesn't change on the outlet it still is cooler everywhere in the cylinders and around the head domes but really gets it's heat at the exhaust. " Edited August 16, 2009 by Chariot Performance Quote
Ruko Posted August 16, 2009 Author Report Posted August 16, 2009 I just thought of something. Do you have a means of measuring the temp of your cylinders and head etc, not just your outlet hose? I use an infrared (laser) thermometer gun ($50.00 or so). On my personal bike which I only use really for setups I have a 4mm cub on pump gas and before proper tuning it measures about 220 example on the outlet hose but on the cylinders and head except at the exhaust it measures 145 to 150 usually. The same on the cases. I am wondering if in these instances where the temp doesn't change on the outlet it still is cooler everywhere in the cylinders and around the head domes but really gets it's heat at the exhaust. Do you have a means of checking this on your bike? Thanks Jerry I am gonna post this in the forum to get some feedback. I don't have one of those IR guns but we have them at work so I will see if I can borrow one and try it out. and I think you were intending to PM this to me... you ended up posting it twice instead lol Quote
Chariot Performance Posted August 19, 2009 Report Posted August 19, 2009 We are still getting some mixed reviews. Improvements with some and the same with others on the outlet hose anyway. We don't have enough to determine which setups benefit the most yet. Quote
jbooker82 Posted August 19, 2009 Report Posted August 19, 2009 Ethire way it is a billit impeller. Its #1 job is to replace the weak stock plastic impeller. Faster coolant flow doesn't meen that it is going to make it run cooler. It would be interesting to splice in a GPM flow gauge and see how the impellers stack up to each other. If you need to drop engine temps then look at the bigger aftermarket radiators. Quote
dajogejr Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 I put a billet impeller in mine to not worry about the stock plastic one coming apart.... Quote
Ruko Posted September 1, 2009 Author Report Posted September 1, 2009 Ethire way it is a billit impeller. Its #1 job is to replace the weak stock plastic impeller. I put a billet impeller in mine to not worry about the stock plastic one coming apart.... It's definitely good for that. When I originally took out my stock one years ago it was all cracked and ready to fall apart, no worries about that with this one or the Pro Design. Quote
locogato11283 Posted September 3, 2009 Report Posted September 3, 2009 Ethire way it is a billit impeller. Its #1 job is to replace the weak stock plastic impeller. Faster coolant flow doesn't meen that it is going to make it run cooler. It would be interesting to splice in a GPM flow gauge and see how the impellers stack up to each other. If you need to drop engine temps then look at the bigger aftermarket radiators. word. i def wouldnt expect any big drops in temp just from a billet impeller. I put a billet impeller in mine to not worry about the stock plastic one coming apart.... double word. Quote
Drewski Posted September 3, 2009 Report Posted September 3, 2009 word. i def wouldnt expect any big drops in temp just from a billet impeller. double word. lol double gangsta Quote
bigborebanshee Posted September 3, 2009 Report Posted September 3, 2009 It performs as well as the pro-design units which is better IMO than the stock plastic one. 220 degrees coming out of the engine does not necessarily equate to 220 degree operating temp in critical areas like bottom end where the crank seals are.2 strokes can take a lot of heat on pistons head and cylinders before significant damage is done. Whereas 4 strokes can take a beating if the top end is overheated. Quote
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