upstate1000 Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Im working on my buddies banshee which has no spark. I have a few questions for you fellas. When it comes to the TORS which was previously disconnected, is that okay, i mean simply disconnect the carb switches, TORS control box, throttle switch etc. and leave them hanging because thats how it is? He has aftermarket tops for the carbs and a twist throttle. Now i have ran through the harness and everything else and everything tests in spec(all switches, pick up coil, source coil etc). The only problem i have is when testing the ign. coil. The primary is fine but when testing the secondary(cap to cap) im getting 10.75 Mega or M Ohms instead of any K Ohm reading. Now this means millions correct which would indicate my coil is toast? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Im working on my buddies banshee which has no spark. I have a few questions for you fellas. When it comes to the TORS which was previously disconnected, is that okay, i mean simply disconnect the carb switches, TORS control box, throttle switch etc. and leave them hanging because thats how it is? He has aftermarket tops for the carbs and a twist throttle. Now i have ran through the harness and everything else and everything tests in spec(all switches, pick up coil, source coil etc). The only problem i have is when testing the ign. coil. The primary is fine but when testing the secondary(cap to cap) im getting 10.75 Mega or M Ohms instead of any K Ohm reading. Now this means millions correct which would indicate my coil is toast? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks I am about to do a techy on ignition coils because they are the very last piece to ever fail in a system. Remove the plug caps and test separately. If that does not show your culprit, remove the plug wires from the coil by unclipping them. Now test leads and coil. You should find either caps or wires are a problem. Or your meter is not working right. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T_Shee Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 ive also heard of stators testing ok but not working. are you getting voltage out of the stator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Im working on my buddies banshee which has no spark. I have a few questions for you fellas. When it comes to the TORS which was previously disconnected, is that okay, i mean simply disconnect the carb switches, TORS control box, throttle switch etc. and leave them hanging because thats how it is? He has aftermarket tops for the carbs and a twist throttle. Now i have ran through the harness and everything else and everything tests in spec(all switches, pick up coil, source coil etc). The only problem i have is when testing the ign. coil. The primary is fine but when testing the secondary(cap to cap) im getting 10.75 Mega or M Ohms instead of any K Ohm reading. Now this means millions correct which would indicate my coil is toast? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks Yes M ohms is 1 million. k ohms is 1000. But like Brandon said, the coil is a very reliable unit. Are you getting any kind of signal to the primary when you kick it over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upstate1000 Posted August 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Yes M ohms is 1 million. k ohms is 1000. But like Brandon said, the coil is a very reliable unit. Are you getting any kind of signal to the primary when you kick it over? By voltage out of the stator im assuming you mean the source coil which powers the box right? What should i see from that and what should i see at the primary of the ign. coil while kicking it over, im guessing around 100 peak volts to the ign. coil? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Scope signal to the primary should be about 80-100V for reference. Find a scope, you will narrow your search. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upstate1000 Posted August 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Scope signal to the primary should be about 80-100V for reference. Find a scope, you will narrow your search. B Your confusing me man, what do you mean by find a scope? Sorry about all the questions im just getting frustrated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 (edited) Your confusing me man, what do you mean by find a scope? Sorry about all the questions im just getting frustrated. Sorry, an oscilloscope is commonly referred to as a scope. Not exactly in everyone's garage of hand tools. They are designed to examine wave lengths, amplitudes, and frequencies. We use them every day here but if you are not familiar with one, please disregard my last post. B Edited August 15, 2009 by blowit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Sorry, an oscilloscope is commonly referred to as a scope. Not exactly in everyone's garage of hand tools. They are designed to examine wave lengths, amplitudes, and frequencies. We use them every day here but if you are not familiar with one, please disregard my last post. B If he uses a regular DVM shouldn't he see the meter try to pick up the signal? I know it is too short for most meters to actually measure it but the display should go blank from 0.00 V and start to measure and then transition back to 0.00 V. This would indicate a signal unfortunately it isn't measurable. An analog meter may actually give you a value when the needle jumps. I can set my meter to min/max and it is actually fast enough to measure this signal. As you said, most don't have access to a scope or know how to set them up. And no, I wasn't referring to the signal from the stator, I was referring to the signal to the primary side of the coil. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 If he uses a regular DVM shouldn't he see the meter try to pick up the signal? I know it is too short for most meters to actually measure it but the display should go blank from 0.00 V and start to measure and then transition back to 0.00 V. This would indicate a signal unfortunately it isn't measurable. An analog meter may actually give you a value when the needle jumps. I can set my meter to min/max and it is actually fast enough to measure this signal. As you said, most don't have access to a scope or know how to set them up. And no, I wasn't referring to the signal from the stator, I was referring to the signal to the primary side of the coil. SP Yes, some meters can trap the spike but I think most people use the 3 dollar special from walmart and that is like using a dremel to do dental work. One problem you can see is the meter NOT trapping the right value. If the voltage is low, it can show a spike but it is still too low to induce excitation of the secondary due to the higher resistance. In sum, it can get you close but I would not put my life on the reading. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lt250rfd Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 i know it gets frustrating testing shit out i did it a cuople times on mine before i found it. if your harness is off or apart, check all the plug ends. i had a wire broke where it went into a plug end. it looked good to the eye, until i pulled on each of the wires and found it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 (edited) Yes, some meters can trap the spike but I think most people use the 3 dollar special from walmart and that is like using a dremel to do dental work. One problem you can see is the meter NOT trapping the right value. If the voltage is low, it can show a spike but it is still too low to induce excitation of the secondary due to the higher resistance. In sum, it can get you close but I would not put my life on the reading. B That makes sense. But if he shows no indication on the meter at all then it would be safe to say at that point that the problem is not the coil because he has nothing to the primary of the coil. That at least would narrow it down to the stator or the CDI which is likely where he is at anyway based on the reliability of the coil in the system. SP Edited August 15, 2009 by spurdy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted August 16, 2009 Report Share Posted August 16, 2009 Sorry, an oscilloscope is commonly referred to as a scope. Not exactly in everyone's garage of hand tools. They are designed to examine wave lengths, amplitudes, and frequencies. We use them every day here but if you are not familiar with one, please disregard my last post. B I have one in my garage......... It's 1980's Boeing surplus, but it works great. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted August 16, 2009 Report Share Posted August 16, 2009 I have one in my garage......... It's 1980's Boeing surplus, but it works great. :geek: Lol! Do you have to use a cherry picker to move it around? :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted August 16, 2009 Report Share Posted August 16, 2009 I have one in my garage......... It's 1980's Boeing surplus, but it works great. :geek: We have a few of them too. They would work just fine for this test work... Datalogging and triggering is what costs the coin anymore. Those old scopes come in handy.... B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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