DannysZ28 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 I bought an 02 banshee that is supposed to be a 4 mil long rod stroker. My question is how to tell if it is a long rod or not. I believe the guy i bought it from but was wondering how to tell without tearing it down. I am getting ready to send a spare set of jugs off and have them ported for a 4 mil. Does it make a difference in how it is ported if it is a short or long rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 It does make a difference in what piston to use. Be sure to talk to your builder about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 I bought an 02 banshee that is supposed to be a 4 mil long rod stroker. My question is how to tell if it is a long rod or not. I believe the guy i bought it from but was wondering how to tell without tearing it down. I am getting ready to send a spare set of jugs off and have them ported for a 4 mil. Does it make a difference in how it is ported if it is a short or long rod? Porting won't matter for a long rod or short rod. It is just the length of the rod that changes with the long rod. The TDC and BDC stay the same and won't effect port timings. It will, however, effect the type of pistons you will need. But, if it has a long rod in it now, you will have the correct pistons. Should be 795 series wisecos, which has a wrist pin location 5mm higher then stock or the 513 series pistons. If it is a 4 mil stroker then it will need to have a spacer plate or stroker cut domes or a re chambered stock head. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannysZ28 Posted August 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 The guy who built it used a 2mm head gasket instead of a spacer. By doing this wouldnt i loose alot of compression. Im sure its a 4mil because i can stick a nickel between the head and jug. I plan on running this till my top end needs to be done then doing a drag ported setup from fast or hjr. Should i have the heads shaved to pickup some more compression and could i use the same head gasket. I had it dynoed last week and it put down 60hp, i thought that was ok considering it was home port job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) I have same basic setup. If you had head off you would see that piston sticks out of cyl 2mm. 2 up/2down=4mil. I have learned on forum that you can use 2mil spacer under cyl, 2mil head gasket, or have head re-chambered for stroker. Be doubly sure to talk to your builder because with what was done to ports you might not be able to do anything else to ports. BTW I have the 2mm head gasket, but totally stock ports, piston goes 2mm past bottom of transfer ports. Edited August 4, 2009 by Larry's Shee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannysZ28 Posted August 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 I just checked the compression a few minutes ago but i checked it with the engine cold. It was 160lbs on each cylinder. Would it be higher or lower with the engine warm? I also had the throttle wide open when it was checked. Should it be higher and should i have the head shaved to pick up some more compression? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 You would pick up some with warm/hot eng. Don't know how much tho. As far as shaving head do a search, but be aware that you're going to be using premium gas at the least. I do belive that you can go 30thou max, but you still have to check squish clearance (search) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.