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HJR MX Hardcore Porting update and videos.


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Just recently had kevin at HJR do a MX Hardcore port to my cylinders. I took it out last weekend and did fairly well against a few other ported banshees and killed about six 450s. Yesterday I took it out to some local saltflats and had a chance to top her out. Being 215 pounds I was able to get to 81.6 mph and my buddy that is 165 pounds topped it out at 82.5. Not quite sure if that is fast for the work that I have done but I doubt i'd want to go any faster than that haha.

 

I am really impressed on how a simple port job and milled head could make such a big difference. Everything is great but my middle range is really dirty. Off idle is good but about mid range before it hits the pipe it'll start spitting and sputtering, once it hits the pipe it is gone. Currently running 320 mains, stock pilots (25s) and needle clip on the very top (leanest) with 3 turns out. It seems like the more turns out I go with the A/F the better the midrange cleans up. What do you guys suggest I do to clean it up? I tried kevins recommendations of 320, 25 pilots, needle in the middle and 1-1.5 turns on the A/F but it runs worse than what I have it at now. This tuning issue has me all twisted up. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.......now to the videos.

 

Oh yeah big thumbs up to kevin at HJR......did a badass job on the cylinders.

 

Misc. video from a local MX track last weekend.

 

Helmet cam from some dude riding a LTR450.....sound is messed up

 

Here I am hitting 81.6 mph........kinda spooky on front tires that are 7 years old.

 

Buddy of mine hitting 82.5 mph

 

Playing at the saltflats.......I shouldn't have been running my paddles.

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Yesterday I took it out to some local saltflats and had a chance to top her out. Being 215 pounds I was able to get to 81.6 mph and my buddy that is 165 pounds topped it out at 82.5. Not quite sure if that is fast for the work that I have done but I doubt i'd want to go any faster than that haha.

One thing to remember about top speed is it is a mechanical calculation determined by your max RPMs, tanny gears, primary drive sprocket/secondary drive sprocket and finally your tire size. It doesn't matter what motor work you have done, it isn't going to go any faster, it will get there quicker and you may have enough power to pull taller gears which will increase speed.

 

I think a stock banshee top speed is about 78 mph. Depending on the pipes you are running, as they will control your max RPMs, you can spin your motor faster and gain some MPH. Other then that you'll have to change gearing to go any faster.

 

SP

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One thing to remember about top speed is it is a mechanical calculation determined by your max RPMs, tanny gears, primary drive sprocket/secondary drive sprocket and finally your tire size. It doesn't matter what motor work you have done, it isn't going to go any faster, it will get there quicker and you may have enough power to pull taller gears which will increase speed.

 

I think a stock banshee top speed is about 78 mph. Depending on the pipes you are running, as they will control your max RPMs, you can spin your motor faster and gain some MPH. Other then that you'll have to change gearing to go any faster.

 

SP

 

Now that you mentioned that it does make sense. Tranny, gearing and tires are all stock. For some reason I couldn't ever get this fast before the porting. Now that I know A stock shee will run 78 mph....my 82.5 mph doesn't really impress me all that much. It's okay though, I'm still having a blast with it.

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Talk to Kevin again. Tell him your problem's, he'll be more than happy to assist you. It sounds like the pilot is pilot is lean to me, I think I would try a 27.50 or a 30, retune the clip and air screws and try it then.

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I remember your problems. We have talked about this. Your jets are way off from what we normally run for this setup. So something is not working right after assembly. Port jobs tend to show the weak link real fast. I know you have POD filters now. What's the timing set at?

 

1. Compression check

2. Leak down test

3. Stator test

4. Gap pickup at flywheel

5. Coil test

6. CDI test

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I remember your problems. We have talked about this. Your jets are way off from what we normally run for this setup. So something is not working right after assembly. Port jobs tend to show the weak link real fast. I know you have POD filters now. What's the timing set at?

 

1. Compression check

2. Leak down test

3. Stator test

4. Gap pickup at flywheel

5. Coil test

6. CDI test

 

Thanks for chiming in Kevin. Currently the timing is set at +4 . The weekend I when to the local mx track I actually ran into that had a similar setup. He was running a cool head with 21cc domes, HJR Dune port, pod filters, lightened fly wheel, T5s and timing set at +7. His ran absolutely great with your jetting specs of 330, unsure of pilots, 3rd clip on needle and 1 turn out.

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Thanks for chiming in Kevin. Currently the timing is set at +4 . The weekend I when to the local mx track I actually ran into that had a similar setup. He was running a cool head with 21cc domes, HJR Dune port, pod filters, lightened fly wheel, T5s and timing set at +7. His ran absolutely great with your jetting specs of 330, unsure of pilots, 3rd clip on needle and 1 turn out.

 

That port job just has more top end in it. They are match as far as jetting goes. He might have 27.5 pilots.

 

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That port job just has more top end in it. They are match as far as jetting goes. He might have 27.5 pilots.

 

Yeah I remember you telling that the dune ports are more for top end. I'm really suprised because I actually beat him every time we raced. I thought about trying to go up on my pilot to a 27.5 but was unsure of which pilots I need to get. Also,I need to check those 6 items listed above to see if it could be causing the tuning problem. Compression check I know how todo but how would I go about checking the other six?

 

2. Leak down test

3. Stator test

4. Gap pickup at flywheel

5. Coil test

6. CDI test

 

 

Oh yeah. Does +4 timing sound about right for my mods?

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Yes +4 timing is good. You should get a manual if you dont have one. They come in handy for trouble shooting.

 

2. Leak down test. you need a leak down tool for this. Do you have or can get one?

3. Stator test. Need a volt meter for this. Have one?

4. Gap pickup at flywheel. Need feeler gauges.

5. Coil test. Volt meter

6. CDI test. Volt meter

 

 

 

 

Stator resistance:

Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire)

Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire)

 

Coil resistance:

Primary coil should be 0.28-0.38 Ohms

Secondary coil should be 4,700-7,100 Ohms

 

Pickup coil gap: 0.015"-0.020"

 

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I do have a volt meter. I do not have a leak down tester or know of anyone who has one. The manual I have is one I downloaded on a hosting site from one member on this forum. It is like 7 or 8 different manuals combined to make one complete one. Over all I think it is about 250 pages or so. I'll definetly start trying to track down the problem. Once again, thanks for your help Kevin.

 

Yes +4 timing is good. You should get a manual if you dont have one. They come in handy for trouble shooting.

 

2. Leak down test. you need a leak down tool for this. Do you have or can get one?

3. Stator test. Need a volt meter for this. Have one?

4. Gap pickup at flywheel. Need feeler gauges.

5. Coil test. Volt meter

6. CDI test. Volt meter

 

 

 

 

Stator resistance:

Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire)

Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire)

 

Coil resistance:

Primary coil should be 0.28-0.38 Ohms

Secondary coil should be 4,700-7,100 Ohms

 

Pickup coil gap: 0.015"-0.020"

 

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I do have a volt meter. I do not have a leak down tester or know of anyone who has one. The manual I have is one I downloaded on a hosting site from one member on this forum. It is like 7 or 8 different manuals combined to make one complete one. Over all I think it is about 250 pages or so. I'll definetly start trying to track down the problem. Once again, thanks for your help Kevin.

Here is a link to a leak down tester posted in the repair forum. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585 It is pretty simple and there are actually several variations to making one. Basically you are pressurizing the crankcase to 6lbs. and time how ling it holds this pressure. Should hold for 6 minutes. Easy breezey, and doesn't cost much to put one together.

 

Hope this helps and good luck!

 

SP

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Currently running 320 mains, stock pilots (25s) and needle clip on the very top (leanest) with 3 turns out. It seems like the more turns out I go with the A/F the better the midrange cleans up. What do you guys suggest I do to clean it up?

 

with 3 turns out your pilot is too big.

 

something is goofy you should not need to go lower pilot and super lean clip when your builder is saying thats not what most of his motors are running.

 

 

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Here is a link to a leak down tester posted in the repair forum. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585 It is pretty simple and there are actually several variations to making one. Basically you are pressurizing the crankcase to 6lbs. and time how ling it holds this pressure. Should hold for 6 minutes. Easy breezey, and doesn't cost much to put one together.

 

Hope this helps and good luck!

 

SP

 

Thanks for the link and clarification on what a leak down tester does. I'll definetly have to try it out.

 

with 3 turns out your pilot is too big.

 

something is goofy you should not need to go lower pilot and super lean clip when your builder is saying thats not what most of his motors are running.

 

Yeah I agree that it seems like the pilot is to big as well. Something really is weird. The motor was stock before I rebuilt it and it ran fairly good. I was running 180 mains, 25 pilots, 2nd clip from top with 1.5 turns out. It's crazy that the motor seems like it needs smaller pilots although with a port job you'd have to go up instead of down.

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