shanYE west Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 Could be a number of different causes. Worn clutch components, dirty oil, improperly adjusted clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 The lockup is bolted to the pressure plate. The pressure plate is bolted to the inner hub with the same bolts that hold the lockup on.. The inner hub is splined and is held on to the transmission input shaft by a nut. How can the lockup, pressure plate, inner hub, and transmission input shaft be spinning when your STOPPED in gear with the clutch pulled in? I thought the crank drives the basket (wich holds the fibers) and the inner hub (wich holdes the steels) drives the input shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 One more question. If your lockup is always spinning then why does it slip when you launch out of the hole? I am not trying to explain the hard shifting. I am trying to explane why a lockup does not cause your banshee to creep forward when you rev it with the clutch in while your stopped in gear.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darthwall Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 I have had the same problem I dont really think of it as a problem but if the bike is in gear and I pull the clutch in and rap it out in the top end it grabs a little and wants to take off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 One more question. If your lockup is always spinning then why does it slip when you launch out of the hole? I am not trying to explain the hard shifting. I am trying to explane why a lockup does not cause your banshee to creep forward when you rev it with the clutch in while your stopped in gear.. Centrifugal force. The more RPMs....the more pressure created by the lockup. Just coming out of the hole is the effect of your spring pressure.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted July 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 I have had the same problem I dont really think of it as a problem but if the bike is in gear and I pull the clutch in and rap it out in the top end it grabs a little and wants to take off Mine did that at first, just adjust the clutch to where it has more pull.....(take slack out of lever) mine quit But my original question to all was, have any of you had difficulties shifting on a 4 mill or any high hp banshee after installing the lockup? If I took the lockup off and put my heavy duty springs from jeff in would it shift better? or Doing the shift star mod and lever mod to where it throws farther will that help? I havent a clue what a dunable tranny is and dont understand them, you cant downshift while moving forward right? I still want to be able to ride the thing off the drag strip...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 Mine did that at first, just adjust the clutch to where it has more pull.....(take slack out of lever) mine quit But my original question to all was, have any of you had difficulties shifting on a 4 mill or any high hp banshee after installing the lockup? If I took the lockup off and put my heavy duty springs from jeff in would it shift better? or Doing the shift star mod and lever mod to where it throws farther will that help? I havent a clue what a dunable tranny is and dont understand them, you cant downshift while moving forward right? I still want to be able to ride the thing off the drag strip...... A dunable override is this. Use the clutch to get it out of the hole, after you launch, full throttle upshifts WITHOUT pulling the clutch in. To downshift, you still need the clutch. Some will say you don't have to use the clutch to downshift. I will tell you that you should, it will eat the tranny downshifting without the clutch.... You can ride it like a normal trans. You should not backload it excessively at high RPMs (let off the gas at high RPMs without pulling in the clutch) Backloading at high RPMs will not break it, but it will wear out the shift forks earlier.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 How can the lockup, pressure plate, inner hub, and transmission input shaft be spinning when your STOPPED in gear with the clutch pulled in? Because something is not letting the clutch plates completely seperate from one another. This is what causes creeping. I was thinking that the fingers on the lockup act as paddles and slings the oil away from the clutch pack. So less oil is getting into the pack. Ofcourse this is just a theory.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 A dunable override is this. Use the clutch to get it out of the hole, after you launch, full throttle upshifts WITHOUT pulling the clutch in. To downshift, you still need the clutch. Some will say you don't have to use the clutch to downshift. I will tell you that you should, it will eat the tranny downshifting without the clutch.... You can ride it like a normal trans. You should not backload it excessively at high RPMs (let off the gas at high RPMs without pulling in the clutch) Backloading at high RPMs will not break it, but it will wear out the shift forks earlier.... well sh!t, something else for the wifey to kill me over....because it looks like im going to need one....cannot shift out of third without completly letting off gas..... damnit to hell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 I love my dunable override but i do miss 6th gear sometimes. It's something to think about. I hope someone makes a dunable in a n-down 1-6 or 1,n,2-6th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 Last I checked, Whitaker will make a 1-6 dunable, not sure of Neutral placement. Based on what I know about their delicate nature on the pavement guys bikes that don't run dunable, I'll never sell or get a 6 speed cut. Greg can have those headaches...and I'm pretty sure, not positive, those 1-6 dunables are very, very pricey.... On his website right now, which may or may not be updated, there are no dunables with 6th gear. In fact, his 1-5 and 2-5 manual 6th he doesn't offer as a dunable either.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Yeah i looked on his site right before i posted. I'm at a stand still anyway with my bike. My 1-5 is perfect. My bike doesnt have the power to pull 6(if it had it) with 15/41. And if i drop a tooth in the front i will go through the gears too fast. So fine right now. It does a good 68-70mph on 20's to that's fast enough. I'd prob hit close to 80 with pro wedges and that's more than i need for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ny98banshee350 Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 ok well i sorta had the same problem as u could only shift from first 2 second not usin clutch then needed it 2 get 2 third then i lost my clutch all 2gether pulled everythin apart and found out that i welded the rod and ball 2gether Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted July 25, 2009 Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 Do the duneable...you won't regret it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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