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new 4 mill, d-d lockup


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Whats the deal? after my 4 mill build, i decided to go with a direct drive lockup and cover and wot pinned it will not shift past 3rd unless i let off gas, usually just racing i pin throttle and slap shift the clutch, but not with this, do i need to do shift star mod? shift shaft mod? will it help, or do i need to take lockup off.... i heard not too do a lockup unless I do a tranny, but i do still play on the thing every once in a while and dont want a full out cut tranny.......what yall think?

 

 

Thanks

Brad

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The lockup applies no pressure to the plates when the clutch is pulled in.

I thought that at high RPMs the Direct Drive clutch would still apply some pressure to the clutch plates. That's why it will creep forward somewhat while staging with it revved up. Please school me if I misunderstand this.

 

SP

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If that's the case, why would you need an override? If the clutch disengages then it should shift....right?

 

No.

You're at the limit of what the gear set/design is set to handle as well.

 

These bikes have 35 ish HP stock. When you double/triple/quaddruple that, you see the limits of factory OEM design.

 

On anything, just because the clutch is disengaged doesn't mean it'll shift.

 

 

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I thought that at high RPMs the Direct Drive clutch would still apply some pressure to the clutch plates. That's why it will creep forward somewhat while staging with it revved up. Please school me if I misunderstand this.

 

SP

 

Creep can be caused by alot of things.

 

The lockup applies pressure to the pressure plate and the pressure plate only. When the clutch lever is pulled in.. the push rod/ball push the plate off from the pack. So at that point all pressure is releived from the pack and would be transfered to the pushrod and ball. Which is why when you use a lockup or all 6 HD springs you should use the pancake bearing as it becomes more likely to weld.

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I understand that. So that means the lockup has nothing to do with how easy/hard it is to shift?

 

 

I would say no.. But the addition of a lockup may cuase other problems such as oil not reaching the plates fast enough or extra roating mass. I'm not saying these are the problems.. I'm just saying that the lockup doesn't make it harder to SHIFT from the extra force it applies to the pressure plate. I think it may compound a problem that is already existant in a high HP motor, otherwise.. this problem would happen even with low HP bikes.

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I thought that at high RPMs the Direct Drive clutch would still apply some pressure to the clutch plates. That's why it will creep forward somewhat while staging with it revved up. Please school me if I misunderstand this.

 

SP

Nope when your stopped in gear with the clutch pulled in the lockup isn't even spinning. The lockup is bolted to the pressure plate and inner hub.

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Only time mine dont spin is when I'm in neautral with the clutch in. Other then that its always spining.

Yep. I noticed this with my first lock up. That's why I thought that at high RPMs the force of the levers was still applying some force to the clutch pack. Sounds silly now that I think of it. If that were the case then the components would have to flex significantly and that would lead to failure.

 

So, if the creeping of the primary drive is the result of higher RPMs, what is the cause?

 

SP

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