Keyser Soze Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 He can have a stock head rechambered for a 4 mil, and not have to worrie about little 0-ring widgets. Ofcourse then it wont look as cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 He can have a stock head rechambered for a 4 mil, and not have to worrie about little 0-ring widgets. Ofcourse then it wont look as cool. That certainly will cost more than $15.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiSkOe*1 Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Yea that will work sweet with a 4 mill. that shit almost made me spit on my keys... DiSkOe*1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebanshee Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 If your domes have that dull sand blasted look on the out side edges of the dome on the squish band then you are detonating causing the o rings to fail. Are your spark plugs rattling loose also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackedout96 Posted July 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 Ok, here's where I'm at.... drilled out main jets and dumps to .125", replaced base gasket, squish is at .046, replaced all cool head orings, replaced all reed/intake gaskets. fired it up and still running lean as shit. I did find while I had it apart that someone before me bottomed out the 2 inside intake bolts on the right cylinder enough that they broke through the back. It does not look like it did anything to the integrity of the interior cylinder wall, but I'm wondering if air might be leaking around the end of the bolts. I'm going to put some thread sealant in there tonight and see if that does it. If not, I'm heading out to buy supplies for a leak down tester. I've already run into a bad stator and busted through intake bolts on my new motor, so what's a couple crank seals :: O, and I forgot to mention the insane amount of play in the rod bearings. FML Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 20, 2009 Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 Make or pick up a leak down tester. With the luck you've had thus far...it's the next step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackedout96 Posted July 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 Make or pick up a leak down tester. With the luck you've had thus far...it's the next step. ya man thats what im going to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackedout96 Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Did a leak down, here's what happened.... I did it without the side covers off which I know I shouldn't have done. When I first pressurized it, I had fuel leaking from the bottom of the motor. It looks like it is coming from the clutch cover gasket, but there is no tranny fluid leaking, only clear fuel. I'll also add that when I pulled my left side pipe off, the expansion chamber was completely full of fuel. Other than the above issue I was unable to find any air leaks. I could not gauge how long it held air because the piece of shit gauge I used to make the kit was leaking at the release valve. I did spray the entire engine with soapy water while it was pressurized and found no leaks. What do I need to do at this point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxMeltIcexX Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Fuel leaking from where? Got me all confused.... Clutch Cover or not? How in the hell does fuel come out of the clutch cover but no tranny fluid . Pipe was full of fuel? Alky? You can definitely differentiate gas from alky, not like it matters but was the bike purged before you did a leakdown? Floats stick before you pulled off the carbs? What should have been done is this: -Clean the motor thoroughly so you know the "fuel" isn't dripping down the motor making it look like its coming out of the clutch cover. -Pipes off -Carbs off -Spark plugs stay in -Do the leakdown at 6 psi with a new gauge (this way you know theres not a leak under the covers). Let us know how it looks after you use a new gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackedout96 Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 (edited) Probably before I do anything else, I need to get all this alky out of the bottom end. If it is this loaded up, what is the best way to get it out? Should I run it and let it burn it all out, or will I end up bending a rod or something? I did kick it over a few times after I pulled the plugs out of the exhaust ports just to see if it would spray any fuel(alky) out and nothing came out.... Edited July 24, 2009 by blackedout96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Probably before I do anything else, I need to get all this alky out of the bottom end. If it is this loaded up, what is the best way to get it out? Should I run it and let it burn it all out, or will I end up bending a rod or something? I did kick it over a few times after I pulled the plugs out of the exhaust ports just to see if it would spray any fuel(alky) out and nothing came out.... Did you remove the carbs and pipes from the motor or not to do this leakdown test? Remove the reed cages, get a small piece of hose and syphon the fuel out of the crank case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackedout96 Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Did you remove the carbs and pipes from the motor or not to do this leakdown test? Remove the reed cages, get a small piece of hose and syphon the fuel out of the crank case. Haha, yes the carbs were off for the leak down. I went by the pinned how to thread in this section for the leak down. Everything went together perfectly, just that gauge leaked a bit. I am going to put some sealant around the base of the pressure release valve, that should stop the pressure loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopoke Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 alky will evaporate if you leave the plugs out but remember it will rust in a matter of minutes. just kick it through with plugs out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 That won't get the alky out, trust me...I watched a guy hydro lock a motor and bend a rod thinking that would work... Siphon or use compressed air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackedout96 Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 That won't get the alky out, trust me...I watched a guy hydro lock a motor and bend a rod thinking that would work... Siphon or use compressed air. I will siphon it. I did turn it over a few times yesterday after I pulled the freeze plugs from the exhaust ports just to see if anything would spray out and nothing did. I'm wondering if when I ran it the other day after the carbs were leaking it cleared it's self most of the way out. Could that be why it was running poorly and sounded like shit. It just had a real soft rev, almost like it sounds when I purge it. Was smoking a lot too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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