BlasterKX Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 il tell you what i told my buffy. he wanted to just put new pistons and rings in without boring. i told him thats a good way of saving some money for now til your bore is really worn out and will chew up your new pistons then you WILL have to bore and new pistons and rings again. so just do it right the first time to save money and a headache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 il tell you what i told my buffy. he wanted to just put new pistons and rings in without boring. i told him thats a good way of saving some money for now til your bore is really worn out and will chew up your new pistons then you WILL have to bore and new pistons and rings again. so just do it right the first time to save money and a headache. Yeah I think that's what I will do, but I'm kind of scared to split the cases. I've just got this feeling that if I do I might not be able to get it back together, and if I do it will take me a year. It just sounds like a lot of work to me. I didn't overheat it I just got it hot from riding and it pushed some oil out the clutch actuator I'm sure that seal wasn't in great shape to begin with anyway. Does anyone else think I need to split the cases??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlasterKX Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 (edited) if oils coming out of the cases its just the seal. i had oil coming out of mine. all you gotta do is tae the clutch cover off and on the pressure plate lossen up the 6 bolts with springs til the are off then move the clutch acuator like your pulling in the clutch and then remover the bracket holding it down and it should just pull right out and then youll see the seal take a mid sized flat screw driver and pry on 1 spot then work ur way around and it should pop out pretty easy then just put the new one in and youll be set. only takes about 25 mins or so. u might need a new clutch gasket though but u shouldnt need to split the cases. not unless your crank is bad or anything really bad like that. some people just do it out of prefference Edited July 6, 2009 by BlasterKX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac_62 Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 Splitting cases is very easy.. Shouldnt scare u at all.. Get a clymer manual and it will walk u right through it. I thought the same thing before i did it.. ONce i did it, i said to myself, THis was simple.... I would split them if i were u. Just to make sure all is well... SHouldnt take u more than a days work if u have all parts there.. just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 Splitting cases is very easy.. Shouldnt scare u at all.. Get a clymer manual and it will walk u right through it. I thought the same thing before i did it.. ONce i did it, i said to myself, THis was simple.... I would split them if i were u. Just to make sure all is well... SHouldnt take u more than a days work if u have all parts there.. just my .02 I'm with you man. I'm not just trying to do something half-ass, but there are several reasons why I don't want to split the cases unless I have to. I'm not an expert in Banshees as you can probably tell so I'm trying to decide what all I need to do with the help of some people that know. You can't see what I see so in the end I've gotta decide and I want to do what's best because I plan on having this bike for a long time. I don't want this bike to be torn down for a long time either. I'd like to have it together and ready to rip before the end of August at the latest. This is a stock build as far as I know so the bearings in it are stock. Another problem is I don't really know what all I would need to buy to put the bottom end back together and I can't really afford to spend more than a few hundred bucks right now. When I started looking into this I had planned to do a top end rebuild and then tear the thing down this winter and really do it right so that's kind of where my mind is at this point. I just don't want to do something stupid or half-assed that will cause major problems later on. If I can't just do the top end and have it ready to last at least a couple years (it won't have to) then I don't want to do it that way. I have a Clymer manual too and they are good you are right about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted September 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Okay so I finally got it tore down this weekend. I've been a little busy lately. I built a leakdown tester and did that fist. It failed miserably so I got out the soapy water and started hunting leaks. Come to find out the left reed cage was leaking almost all the way around where it seals to the carb boot so I siliconed that and kept doing the test until I plugged up all the leaks. When I got all the obvious leaks fixed the test passed with flying colors. I think it only lost like a pound in 20 minutes. So I'm pretty sure I'm good there because I'm probably going to get new reeds and cages anyway. Now the cylinders. The cylinders, pistons, and bearings all look really good for being stock. No scratches or anything like that. There was a little more play than I would've liked to see with the piston in the cylinder. Maybe like 1/16 of an inch back and forth when moving the piston from the top with my fingers. I'm not sure how much play is allowed here so I'm just kind of guessing at this point. There are also no visible cross hatches in the cylinders. The tops of both pistons have carbon buildup on them also. The bottom end feels tight with minimal play in the bearings. I did let a few little pieces of dirt/gasket material fall down in there, but it's not anything a shop vac won't take care of. This bike is stock as far as I can tell. I'm pretty sure the reed cages are stock, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at with the reeds so not sure on them. If I had to guess I'd say stock though. Right now I'm planning/hoping to go back with a fresh top end, vforce reeds, and maybe a cool head along with the fmf fatty/powercore2's I already have. I will definitely be taking any advice I can get on mods though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted October 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 It's been a while since I've posted, but I'm still working on it. I might end up splitting my cases before the winter is over. Anyway I was wondering about my wrist pins. They were really hard to get out of the pistons. How hard should they be? The bike was stock though so they have been there since 2000. Also, the reason why I'm thinking about splitting the cases (other than it's never been done), is that the guy that owned it before me got it stuck in 2nd gear once. He said it wouldn't come out of that gear, but it would still run in 2nd. He said he finally said f#ck it one day and rode it over a jump in 2nd and it came loose. Never had a problem since other than it's a little tricky going from 2nd to 3rd under heavy load sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.