Ieat4strokes Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 Building my 4 mill, started today and split the cases and got crank in, i ordered a seal kit but honestly the seals look good on mine, how do you know if they are bad? when its back together and starts leaking? lmao, also noticed the hotrod crank didnt have the little dowels on the bearings that the stock crank had does it matter? It seems very cut and dry build, anything i should do while im in there? Im going to mod my star and the shift shaft lever while its apart. Good idea? also putting it back together just yamabond the whole matting surface? Also got me a direct drive lockout cover and lockout from arfountain (thanks again) and i really dont see how this thing helps at all, lol the weights are the bolts and nuts? i mean does it really apply more pressure or is it a gimmick, i see the thought behind it but its nothing like a lockout on a streetbike..... Im putting it on reguardless tho.... Thanks and any pointers will be helpful...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onesickcrewcab Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 If the seals are tight then they are probably good. The only real way to tell is to do a leak down test once it's back together and see if leaks. The hotrod crank doesn't have the same type of dowels on the bearings. But it does have a little nipple that sticks out. Yamabond works great on all the mating surfaces. The nuts and bolts on the fingers of the lockup are the weights. The faster the motor spins the more pressure it puts on the pressure plate. That pushes the clutch plates tighter together. Its not a gimmick, it actually works. You can play with the amount of weights on the fingers to give you a little slip off the line and then lockup when your fully into the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 The DD lock-ups are fine, yes the bolt/nut is the weight, and can be adjusted with other bolts/more nuts, etc. Replace the seals anyways since you're in there, no point in buying brand new ones to not put them in. Never know if your old ones might be bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 The DD lock-ups are fine, yes the bolt/nut is the weight, and can be adjusted with other bolts/more nuts, etc. Replace the seals anyways since you're in there, no point in buying brand new ones to not put them in. Never know if your old ones might be bad. replace the seals,cheap insurance,your right the lock-up on my buddies R1 is a little diffrent,but the one you have works good,I run all stock springs so it reacts like a two step,did you do your tranny? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 Ok cool, thanks guys...... No i didnt do a trans. If needed I will but alot of guys say its not necessary, alot do.... Ill just wait and see how she acts, I am modding the star and shift shaft lever to help it shift better..... My MAIN problem is a set of domes. I never knew it was this much trouble to get some domes for a 4 mill drag ported stock cylinder bike..... Im gonna stick with pump gas, maybe throw some 50/50 in there if needed but shyts just to high to run all the time straight. Everyone keeps tellin me to talk to jeff @ fast but he's on vac till the 12th or something from what I got from another guy....I NEED DOMES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregrob Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 LOL Dude call Dave at Noss or Brandon or even Kevin Herr and get you a damn set of domes. If you want .3 more HP and want to push every bit of timing you can then get some later when Jeff gets back. It's not going to make that much of a difference though. I ordered domes from Kevin today with my other stuff and Dave cut them and has them headed my way the same day. Hard to beat that, just call somebody and get er dun. BTW I still think you should run methanol... Just get those domes from Kubitza and do it. Let that motor run like it should Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00tbanshee Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 chad,i don't think the newer hotrod strocker cranks have the little pins on like you are talking about.i just assembled tony's cub and his bearings didn't have one on.also know of somebody else that there's didn't have it either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onesickcrewcab Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 chad,i don't think the newer hotrod strocker cranks have the little pins on like you are talking about.i just assembled tony's cub and his bearings didn't have one on.also know of somebody else that there's didn't have it either That's odd. Good looking out though. Correction then. My older hot rod crank had little nipples on them! Yours may or may not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 I wanna say mine had o-rings on the bearings to achieve the same thing, I can't remember for sure though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 I wanna say mine had o-rings on the bearings to achieve the same thing, I can't remember for sure though... that's how mine is made. Has O rings in the bearings. Greg I've been talking to David. He's going to make me a set but was saying he needed a deck height measurment. Cylinders aren't here yet so I can't. He said he can make sure for what they usually are and basically I just gotta hope squish is right. As far as methanol. It will come but right now the wife is ready to chop my head off for the amount if money I've spent lately. I gotta chill. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 The orings are used instead of the little dowels to keep the outer race of the bearing from spinning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 first time motor has ever been apart, it had pieces of rings everywhere under the stock crank.....had to have been before me.....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onesickcrewcab Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 first time motor has ever been apart, it had pieces of rings everywhere under the stock crank.....had to have been before me.....lol Are you talking about the half moon shaped clip? Basically C shaped clip that was holding the big crank bearing in place? Cause if you are, that still needs to be there. It keeps the outer race from moving side to side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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