dajogejr Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 . Plus, we are taking the front brakes off and considering putting it back on Alky. That's the norm for us guys that play in the dirt/sand. I completely understand the reason for both on pavement...You'll probably pick up a tenth in ET and a few MPH with both those changes, if not a hair more. I think the only time my bike was close to 1.3 was a low 1.4 with a 125lb rider on it. That being said, it was geared for me...250lbs. Call me lazy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 so what did everyone kiss and make up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 so what did everyone kiss and make up? Not at all, but the buffoon squad gets smaller every time they post. I guess that would make you part of the "I hear that nobody in here gives A fuck". So, you must be the bitch on the right & simplelx is the bitch on the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 Here's some basic clutch tuning that can be applied to our quad clutches. "What is the optimum clutch setup? At the starting line, the optimum clutch setup will allow you to apply as much power as possible to the rear wheels without losing traction. This is accomplished by controlling the amount of clutch slippage with adjustments to the static and centrifugal pressures. For example: The clutch could be set with moderate static pressure and the correct amount of centrifugal weight to allow the clutch to slip as the car leaves the starting line at relatively low RPM. As the engine RPM increases in first gear, the centrifugal assist increases, gradually locking the clutch up and applying full power to the rear wheels. If the clutch slips too much off the line, additional static pressure could be added, or the launch RPM could be raised to allow the centrifugal weights to begin locking the clutch up sooner. If the track conditions were poor, the static pressure could be reduced or the launch RPM reduced in order to allow more slippage and maintain traction. " These principles are used in many different motorsports. "POPULAR APPLICATIONS" "Truck and Tractor Pulling" "Drag Racing" "Sand Drags" "Monster Trucks" "Mud Racing" Now, how does this information apply to our quads. This is just some of the information I found and used to learn how to clutch tune our quad. I have also been lucky to trade information with my race partner Tedder. "It would be nice if SlowerThan could post up some clutch information on what they do and how they set it up. HOWEVER...if they wanted to keep that to themselves for their own personal benefit, that is 100% up to them and I wouldn't begrudge him in the least." I'm pointing in the right direction, but you guys have to do the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 Here's some basic clutch tuning that can be applied to our quad clutches. "What is the optimum clutch setup? At the starting line, the optimum clutch setup will allow you to apply as much power as possible to the rear wheels without losing traction. This is accomplished by controlling the amount of clutch slippage with adjustments to the static and centrifugal pressures. For example: The clutch could be set with moderate static pressure and the correct amount of centrifugal weight to allow the clutch to slip as the car leaves the starting line at relatively low RPM. As the engine RPM increases in first gear, the centrifugal assist increases, gradually locking the clutch up and applying full power to the rear wheels. If the clutch slips too much off the line, additional static pressure could be added, or the launch RPM could be raised to allow the centrifugal weights to begin locking the clutch up sooner. If the track conditions were poor, the static pressure could be reduced or the launch RPM reduced in order to allow more slippage and maintain traction. " These principles are used in many different motorsports. "POPULAR APPLICATIONS" "Truck and Tractor Pulling" "Drag Racing" "Sand Drags" "Monster Trucks" "Mud Racing" Now, how does this information apply to our quads. This is just some of the information I found and used to learn how to clutch tune our quad. I have also been lucky to trade information with my race partner Tedder. "It would be nice if SlowerThan could post up some clutch information on what they do and how they set it up. HOWEVER...if they wanted to keep that to themselves for their own personal benefit, that is 100% up to them and I wouldn't begrudge him in the least." I'm pointing in the right direction, but you guys have to do the work. IMO 2-strokes also need some wheelspin due to not having as much grunt to get back on the powerband. I'm assuming this is tough to take into consideration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 IMO 2-strokes also need some wheelspin due to not having as much grunt to get back on the powerband. I'm assuming this is tough to take into consideration. We really try to limit or totally eliminate wheelspin and that can be pretty difficult sometimes. A properly set-up clutch keeps the motor in the power band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 I guess I'm having a hard time imagining a sand drag run with no wheel spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 I guess I'm having a hard time imagining a sand drag run with no wheel spin. The statement I made was general in nature for the surfaces we run on. Hence, we really try to limit wheelspin even on sand. Our quad throws very little sand compared to everyone elses set-up and people ask why. This is small amount taken from Direct Drive. "By setting up your clutch to have a small amount of slippage off the line you will keep the rpm’s of the engine up and eliminate some excessive tire spin. Remember you want to move forward as quick as possible,(not sit and spin)." We don't believe in a small amount of slippage and put a great deal of slippage in. The down side is the heat it produces, but we take measures to deal with that also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bada450r Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 is this where i take a piss.........................jk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 is this where i take a piss.........................jk Take it on simplelx, n2otooslow, specialDBag and if anything is left over. Well, piss on yourself. O.....hhh I forgot I was joking, not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 How did I get brought into this? I dont give to shakes of a stick about it.. To ME your times arent impressive. I havent said one word about your setups that I know of, nor do I know who the fuck you are. So you can remove my name from your little list. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 How did I get brought into this? I dont give to shakes of a stick about it.. To ME your times arent impressive. I havent said one word about your setups that I know of, nor do I know who the fuck you are. So you can remove my name from your little list. Thanks n2otooslow, You are pretty ignorant, you dragged yourself in. You find it funny when you dish it out, but as usual you are too fragile when it's given back. For someone who portrays not giving a fuck to whom I am. You know about a few times I have posted, butted your way into this thread and took the time to check my profile. H.....mm, but of course you don't give a fuck now do you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 carry on brother... Dont know what your story is but quite honestly (for reals) I dont really care. At any rate, yes there is miles of techonolgy and knowledge that is missed on most peoples clutch setup. Its just been in the last few years that Ive paid much attention to it, and after messing with the time loc, a hayes, and a couple other ideas, Ive resorted back to the "old fashioned ideas" but I do think the willburn setup is a good setup. My first concern is to not wreck parts, second concern is to get the bike down the track faster.. I did go back and read through all of this. Its my understanding that you are saying your same theorys apply from pavement to sand, not neccasarly the exact setup from one to another, and for that I completely agree. You can apply more power/less power in different areas of the track from one to the other, but yes the theory is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 carry on brother... Dont know what your story is but quite honestly (for reals) I dont really care. At any rate, yes there is miles of techonolgy and knowledge that is missed on most peoples clutch setup. Its just been in the last few years that Ive paid much attention to it, and after messing with the time loc, a hayes, and a couple other ideas, Ive resorted back to the "old fashioned idea" It's nice you responded with an informational post. Now, if you don't think a 443 cub on race gas, stock frame with a 210lb. rider pulling low 1.30 60's is not impressive. Well, whom am I to debate it with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted December 29, 2011 Report Share Posted December 29, 2011 carry on brother... Dont know what your story is but quite honestly (for reals) I dont really care. At any rate, yes there is miles of techonolgy and knowledge that is missed on most peoples clutch setup. Its just been in the last few years that Ive paid much attention to it, and after messing with the time loc, a hayes, and a couple other ideas, Ive resorted back to the "old fashioned ideas" but I do think the willburn setup is a good setup. My first concern is to not wreck parts, second concern is to get the bike down the track faster.. I did go back and read through all of this. Its my understanding that you are saying your same theorys apply from pavement to sand, not neccasarly the exact setup from one to another, and for that I completely agree. You can apply more power/less power in different areas of the track from one to the other, but yes the theory is the same. I see you added to your post since I replied. The wilburn is a very good set-up & I have been working with standard lock-ups with great success also. Our orginal hill shooting sand set-up (2009) worked very well, but I knew we had too much wheel speed on the launch. After my accident we went back to asphalt racing. Nov. 11 we decided to run 300' sand for the first time. I knew from our previous clutch data we had too much base pressure for sand. Before going to Dome Valley, I made clutch adjustments based on that. Plus, we didn't have enough tire. We lowered the base pressure & did a gearing change to compensate. 300' sand base pressure was a # that have used on asphalt, but it was on the high side of what we prefer for most conditions. The arm weights & tower springs were unchanged from our optimum asphalt set-up. As for the rest of the clutch set-up it remained unchanged also. As for the gearing, we used 16/42 (2.56) on the hill and changed to 17/42 (2.47) with a 1st gear launch and a 2.86 primary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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