dco3100 Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 The bike in question is the 2000 in my sig, I have dual 35pwks now and its a pain in the ass to tune and sync both carbs everytime I do a mod! So I was thinking about the 2 into 1 carb setup, I could use the better low end power it supposedly makes. The only thing im concerned about is the "claimed" top end loss this setup has. I just came back from the dyno this weekend and I put down 60 horses, 42lbs of Torq, 5th gear pull with a great, steady curve :cool: . I mean I can sacrifice 1-3 horses if my low end improves. And im guessing a 38 pwk would be a good single carb for my mods. I know its alot of info, just lookin for opinions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dco3100 Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggerzmound Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 I don't think a single setup would do your build any justice. My single runs good on my modified shee but mine definitely is not 60 HP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dco3100 Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 I don't think a single setup would do your build any justice. My single runs good on my modified shee but mine definitely is not 60 HP. What kind of mods do you have? And im pretty sure it wont make quite as much as the duals, but this is my play bike so im really just looking for low end, easy tuning, just not a big drop in hp. And how does it handle in low end compared to a dual setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misssppelllleddd Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 A single carb would give a little more low end and that is what I run on my bike. I have a 4mil, .50 over stock, aggressive trail port, 19cc domes (pushing 205lbs of compression), Vf3 reeds, reed spacers, and a 2-1 intake with 33PWK, K&N pod, and Pro-Circuit pipes for my top end and intake mods. But with the compression I don't get much high end but alot of low end. My bike is mostly set up for MX and trails though. I'm not sure if they make a 38PWK 2-1 setup but I know they go up to a 35PWK. If you do go with a 2-1 setup I don't think you will need any bigger than a 35PWK and you could probably use a 33PWK. I don't run a dune bike but from what I've learned on here is that most dune ports are for more top end so a 2-1 probably wouldn't benefit you much for top end but a little for low end. People may try to tell you that a 2-1 carb setup is/isn't for your bike but ultimately it is up to you and you choose what you want and what suits your riding style. There is a post on here stating the pro's and con's of a 2-1 setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
278 Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 If you are looking for easier tuning then I guess you should go with it, however Snop did a dyno test on the different set-ups and found that the 2-1 makes the same power on the low to mid as a dual carb set-up and the reason people feel it does more is because you lose a few HP on the top end. But like Misssppelllleddd said its ultimately up to you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 With vforce 1 reeds, a dune port, and T5's, your not matching it up correctly by putting a single on it. The single makes it accelerate faster, but cripple your topend. If there is nothing wrong with your pwk 35's, there ought to be info on here to get the jetting about spot on. However, those are too big of carbs in my opinion for what you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dco3100 Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 With vforce 1 reeds, a dune port, and T5's, your not matching it up correctly by putting a single on it. The single makes it accelerate faster, but cripple your topend. If there is nothing wrong with your pwk 35's, there ought to be info on here to get the jetting about spot on. However, those are too big of carbs in my opinion for what you have. Im pretty sure my jetting is dead on 155 main, 50 pilot. On the dyno the guy said the only thing I can maybe improve is by dropping the needle 1 clip to lean it out a bit but other than that it was perfect. I guess im jus fiending for some low end but dont wanna loose too much top, kinda asking for a miracle I think ill try to buy just the adapter plates and use one of my 35s on the setup, goto the dyno and see how it turns out. If it drops too much, jus switch back and be out only the cost of the plate, filter, and throttle cable... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 What kind of dyno was it? Rear wheel dynos dont have engine brakes, so its about impossible to check anything but the main jet setting. Even then, the load in the dunes will usually be more, and you end up going up 1 size at least on the main usually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Invader Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Im pretty sure my jetting is dead on 155 main, 50 pilot. On the dyno the guy said the only thing I can maybe improve is by dropping the needle 1 clip to lean it out a bit but other than that it was perfect. I guess im jus fiending for some low end but dont wanna loose too much top, kinda asking for a miracle I think ill try to buy just the adapter plates and use one of my 35s on the setup, goto the dyno and see how it turns out. If it drops too much, jus switch back and be out only the cost of the plate, filter, and throttle cable... I run a trinity 2n1 and really like it. I found for my style of riding i can get into the upper gear powerband easier. As far as top end loss, i'm not dragging. I ride cross country/desert. I changed from fmf w/pc2's to t-6s. also the stock carb for the trinity 2n1 system. and got a trinity cool head with 20cc domes. I really like the set up now. Before i would struggle to get into 6th powerband. now it is no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitbread Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 While it may not be totally "ideal" for your setup, try it with one of the 35pwk's you have. You might be pleasantly surprised. If you don't like it, you can always go back as you said. I'm sure it's even less theoretically ideal for my setup as the motor was originally built for an ice drag bike. But, it runs well enough for me and surprises everyone who rides it. Since I'm usually in a different location or season every time I ride, it's so nice to be able to rejet in under 2 mins. Biggest thing is getting the needle selection right though. I'm running an EEJ, 4th clip, 155 main, and 35 pilot, 2.5 turns out on the airscrew with my 34pj. If it's just a play bike and you're not after every last 1/10th hp you can get at 10+K, the pro's might outweigh the cons. Since I don't live on a dyno, they do for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dco3100 Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 (edited) k thanks for the help, just not very familiar with this type of setup, just trying to get info and opinions! I think I might go ahead and purchase one of these to try it out, go back to the dyno and woork with the needle, etc. I was reading up on it and found that the EEJ needle is quite poplular with these setups, so ill be looking for one soon. Any ideas on where I can pick one up? What kind of dyno was it? Rear wheel dynos dont have engine brakes, so its about impossible to check anything but the main jet setting. Even then, the load in the dunes will usually be more, and you end up going up 1 size at least on the main usually. It was a dynomite dyno, great setup up this guy had. He had exhaust inserts that measured velocity/air/fuel mixture, what ever he said it was, I was just waiting for the run He said those things, "inserts" helped measure more than just peak hp, torq, etc. Ill post a pic of the dyno sheet with the info... Edited June 23, 2009 by dco3100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 While it may not be totally "ideal" for your setup, try it with one of the 35pwk's you have. You might be pleasantly surprised. If you don't like it, you can always go back as you said. I'm sure it's even less theoretically ideal for my setup as the motor was originally built for an ice drag bike. But, it runs well enough for me and surprises everyone who rides it. Since I'm usually in a different location or season every time I ride, it's so nice to be able to rejet in under 2 mins. Biggest thing is getting the needle selection right though. I'm running an EEJ, 4th clip, 155 main, and 35 pilot, 2.5 turns out on the airscrew with my 34pj. If it's just a play bike and you're not after every last 1/10th hp you can get at 10+K, the pro's might outweigh the cons. Since I don't live on a dyno, they do for me. Your running a main jet 8 sizes smaller than what we run in them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamRealtreeHD Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 You will have lots of fun trying to tune a single if you don't like the doubles. Stick with the duals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dco3100 Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 You will have lots of fun trying to tune a single if you don't like the doubles. Stick with the duals eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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