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Progressive cold seize?


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Ok got the shee running and broke it in with two tanks of 32:1 super m semi synthetic oil. Jetting was at 25 pilots and 280 mains. Ran great for like a week a little boggy on the low end.

 

Yesterday switched to amsoil dominator to a 50:1 ratio. Picked up some bigger pilots and move up to a 30. Took care of the low end bogg.

 

Plugs looked great with a nice tan color. Removed head after it stopped running and piston wash was excellent. A little dark in the middle of the piston then tappers out toward the rings. The question here is it possible to have a progressive cold seize with wesico pistons? Like start it let it warm up but not enough time and time again, with a little smear here and there. Then it builds up to were its just a falier piston from a progressive? All the bearings look great and feel smooth. I replaced the reed with boysen reed pedtals and checked the pedal screws as if one backed out but they were all there also. The rings look good as well. I dont understand. Any pointers would be great before I slap another 250 on it with a new wesico top end.........

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Ok got the shee running and broke it in with two tanks of 32:1 super m semi synthetic oil. Jetting was at 25 pilots and 280 mains. Ran great for like a week a little boggy on the low end.

 

Yesterday switched to amsoil dominator to a 50:1 ratio. Picked up some bigger pilots and move up to a 30. Took care of the low end bogg.

 

Plugs looked great with a nice tan color. Removed head after it stopped running and piston wash was excellent. A little dark in the middle of the piston then tappers out toward the rings. The question here is it possible to have a progressive cold seize with wesico pistons? Like start it let it warm up but not enough time and time again, with a little smear here and there. Then it builds up to were its just a falier piston from a progressive? All the bearings look great and feel smooth. I replaced the reed with boysen reed pedtals and checked the pedal screws as if one backed out but they were all there also. The rings look good as well. I dont understand. Any pointers would be great before I slap another 250 on it with a new wesico top end.........

 

 

 

Your post is rather confusing. Did it lock up. Are you warming it up? Who did the bore work?

 

There are too many variables to tell you, yeah, warm it up more. Bore clearance and final hone have a LOT to do with how a motor breaks in when new.

 

 

Warm up for 10min when new, 5 when run in good.

 

1 tank of fuel for break in riding easy

 

Use a little extra oil in the premix for the first tank.

 

 

B

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Your post is rather confusing. Did it lock up. Are you warming it up? Who did the bore work?

 

There are too many variables to tell you, yeah, warm it up more. Bore clearance and final hone have a LOT to do with how a motor breaks in when new.

 

 

Warm up for 10min when new, 5 when run in good.

 

1 tank of fuel for break in riding easy

 

Use a little extra oil in the premix for the first tank.

 

 

B

Why did you take the head off? Just run it. Check compression so you have a baseline.

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Your post is rather confusing. Did it lock up. Are you warming it up? Who did the bore work?

 

There are too many variables to tell you, yeah, warm it up more. Bore clearance and final hone have a LOT to do with how a motor breaks in when new.

 

 

Warm up for 10min when new, 5 when run in good.

 

1 tank of fuel for break in riding easy

 

Use a little extra oil in the premix for the first tank.

 

 

B

 

yeah it locked up for a min then when it cooled it turned over.....the bore work was done by a reputable builder in my area. Dont think it was the bore job. Had a good cross hatch when the build was done.

 

 

Why did you take the head off? Just run it. Check compression so you have a baseline.

 

 

I took the head off when i tore it down to see what happened.......I checked the compression it had 130psi on each side before it burned down........

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Check the piston/cylinder clearance. Don't remember exactly what it's suppose to be but it's in a Clymer's I'm sure. Also check the ring-end gap.

 

Piston/clinder gap is .003-.005. The bore was great and the clearance was there. The ring gap was .012 witch was right on the money........

 

 

just out of curiosity why would you run it 50-1,i know there will be people that tell you its a go but its really not worth it in my opinion

 

 

?????? Not sure either. I know dominator is a full synthetic oil so you can do that. I dont think i will this time around. Think im gonna do a 40:1

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What were you doing when it locked up? Running WOT? Running WOT then letting off? Letting all the way out of the throttle when WOT can lock it up. I've done 2 like that, but they were not so forgiving. The needle plugs the main jet while the rpms are still up. Leans it out.

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