Cheap Modded Banshee!

[90Bansheedude]

Its almost like opening up a treasure chest! :biggrin:

 

Well I brought home a banshee late last night, after driving 5 1/2 hours round trip soon after i got a phone call from a guy who said he had a banshee i might be interested in.

 

I went and checked it out, and paid the guy for it, brought it home, and tonight im just getting to tearing it down.

 

When I got it, the head was off, and the left piston had a hole in it, and the right one had a droop in the front, but it was not locked up. So, i knew it needed a top end rebuild. he mentioned some things like it had a ricky stator, welded and trued crank, k&N filter, and a few other things, but you never know if you can believe them or not.

 

What I do know, is it has extended chromed TIG welded A arms and J arms. J arm measures approx 13" from pivot to center of ball joint. A arm is about 15 1/2". (how much extended are they, and who made these? Denton racing maybe?, there is a Denton sticker on the plastics)

 

It has a aftermarket axle with 2 spacers before the hubs on each side (measures 34" from inside hubs) with large hubs (about 6 1/4") warrior maybe? What brand of axle, i dunno, but its adjustable.

 

It has Ohlins shocks up front that have adjustment screws on them with the attached reservoirs, and Im not sure what the rear is, but it looks beefy with a blue spring and a remote res that looks like it has cooling fins all around it. It also has a steering dampener on the front as well.

 

Has a set of Bills Pipes and silencers and K&N filter with box lid on, but hollowed out the tube intake passages above the filter.

 

Nerf bars, aluminum bumper and swingarm skidplate (left side nerf is broken pretty bad though)

 

Wheels and tires

Fronts = Dunlop 21 x 7 x 10 on ITP aluminum rims - about wore out

Rears = Bandit A/T 20 x 10 x 10 on Yamaha aluminum - plenty of meat, feels like they were roasting on pavement though! :biggrin:

Extra Paddles = AMS Aerospeed 20 x 11 x 10 on ITP aluminum

 

Motor, like I said had the head removed, but there (looks stock, he said it was milled), has stainless water pump and clutch cover and the tors carb tops have been replaced (if tors was on 90s) Wiring is much to be desired and the bike has definitely been well used and rode, but frame looks good and solid.

 

OK....now I start taking the motor off and apart to clean it out and see if i need anything else and see whats actually inside.

 

First, I find that the cylinders have been ported (not mirror polished, but ported well) have studs, and are engraved on the side is "play 3738" (whats that mean?) and the reeds have a large reed covering both sides, then a pair of small ones on top of that, with none of the stock curved metal guards or stops on top (no idea what they are, no name)...then I take off the stator cover to find a adjustable timing plate, with I think a Ricky stator (as the guy said it had, but i gotta order a flywheel puller to get into it)...I was kinda wondering though cause timing was set at -1 1/2. negative? purpose? Then I look at the crank to see if i can see anything before its split, and its a Hot Rods 204 Crank with 121 rods! NICE!....now to take a look inside the clutch cover. Found out that something (lock washer maybe!?) came loose and made some good marks on the outside of the clutch basket, and took a small chunk out of the aluminum oil deflector that is part of the cover (i think it might be ok, clutch and cover) Take the clutch out to inspect, and the basket says JP racing on it! It has a little slop, so I think the buttons (right word? rubbery dudes underneath the back cover) could be replaced. Anyone know of JP racing, or were to get buttons? I Googled for awhile with no luck. Also I noticed, the crank kind of looks like it is a little to far towards the clutch side of the motor, but maybe its just me,...is that possible, and what would cause that?

 

Further notes...I cleaned off the top of the cylinders a little, and I can kinda see an impression in the remaining gasket residue that says 66m?, 18cc, 12deg?...its kinda hard to make out, but I think thats what it says (it is like a mirrored image, so its bassackwards). So i am wondering if the head he took off to inspect the pistons was a cool head, chariot or something with 18cc domes, and he sold it, or a previous owner did? what do you think?

 

The carbs I believe are stock, and the one i opened, had a 280 jet in it. Gas smells kinda good, or the oil does. (not sure if its race gas, or oil smell, my sniffers messed up right now) =)

 

Im curious why the top end melted. Bad jetting?, they put the stock head back on?, timing -1 1/2"?, fuel octane issue?, or just running it too hard to long?

 

Anyhow, thats the start of my story of the build, what do you think? What would have been a good price for this bike? Just curious. Ill tell you what I paid tomorrow.

 

Also if anyone has any interesting or useful information regarding my info, I thank you in advance!

 

Brian =)

Edited June 4, 2009 by 90Bansheedude

[shee4speed]

welcome to the HQ.

[90Bansheedude]

I should probably add, that i want to go fast, but I want to make sure its reliable, and isn't going to blow up again. Im new to banshees myself (ridin them a little, but 1st to own), but Ive rebuilt a blaster (it was very nice) and I also have a 02 raptor 660, did a tranny fix for it. Its got pipes, filter, jetted, normal main stuff. I was debating throwing in a streetbike 600 or 1000cc, but then when i found the motor had all the stuff done to it, i think i changed my mind.

[bansheesandrider]

89 and 90 Banshees had a rear bolt pattern of 4x156, same as the front. All other years (87,88,91 on) were 4x115, the same as Warrior,Raptor,YFZ450,etc. JP Racing was a company based here in Portland, OR in the early 90's. From what I was told(truth?) they went bankrupt once and were about to go under a second time when they got bought by Lonestar Racing. They made frames, swingarms, J arms, A arms, etc. I don't know if they made any parts for engines. Never the less, JP is out of business so I would say you will have to see if Hinson or somebody else's cushions will fit. While your in it, pay close attention to the kick idler gear bushing, snap ring, and washer. Also, make sure the shift shaft is in good shape and properly adjusted, the side play on the connecting rods is correct and the crank is properly trued and welded. Good luck on getting it running.

[banshee_terror_]

89 and 90 Banshees had a rear bolt pattern of 4x156, same as the front. All other years (87,88,91 on) were 4x115, the same as Warrior,Raptor,YFZ450,etc. JP Racing was a company based here in Portland, OR in the early 90's. From what I was told(truth?) they went bankrupt once and were about to go under a second time when they got bought by Lonestar Racing. They made frames, swingarms, J arms, A arms, etc. I don't know if they made any parts for engines. Never the less, JP is out of business so I would say you will have to see if Hinson or somebody else's cushions will fit. While your in it, pay close attention to the kick idler gear bushing, snap ring, and washer. Also, make sure the shift shaft is in good shape and properly adjusted, the side play on the connecting rods is correct and the crank is properly trued and welded. Good luck on getting it running.

 

 

what rear bolt pattern are you talking about i have a 89 and would like to know

[90Bansheedude]

89 and 90 Banshees had a rear bolt pattern of 4x156, same as the front. All other years (87,88,91 on) were 4x115, the same as Warrior,Raptor,YFZ450,etc. JP Racing was a company based here in Portland, OR in the early 90's. From what I was told(truth?) they went bankrupt once and were about to go under a second time when they got bought by Lonestar Racing. They made frames, swingarms, J arms, A arms, etc. I don't know if they made any parts for engines. Never the less, JP is out of business so I would say you will have to see if Hinson or somebody else's cushions will fit. While your in it, pay close attention to the kick idler gear bushing, snap ring, and washer. Also, make sure the shift shaft is in good shape and properly adjusted, the side play on the connecting rods is correct and the crank is properly trued and welded. Good luck on getting it running.

 

Thanks man! Thats some good info. For the kick idler bushing, what do i need to check? That it spins freely (it does) or that it doesn't wobble (it does a little)? The shift shaft seems to move freely, but not have any slop, but the pin that is between the spring that has a locknut on it, is loose enough to turn by hand, its like they bent the lock washer before the nut was locking the pin tight. What do I need to adjust on the shift shaft? (i didn't know there was any adjusting besides moving the shifter) Do you have specs on the side play of the con rods?

 

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help!

 

If you didn't see my other post, I only had to give $260 for the whole ball of wax!! I was happy, even if the motor was total crap!

 

Brian :biggrin:

[bansheesandrider]

I was talking about the rear wheel hub bolt pattern to hold the wheel on, however alot of them did get hubs with the 4x115 pattern swapped on so they would be the same as the other years. If the idler gear wobbles at all it needs a new bushing or a new gear, if it wobbles, it will eventually flip the snap ring and washer off the shaft and run them thruogh the other gears. You need to see how much clearance the hooks on the shift shaft have on the pin. The screw/pin that the big spring for the shift shaft sits on is an eccentric to adjust the shift shaft. I don't have the specs for the crank. All of this stuff is covered in the service manual, along with all the torque specs. You really should have a service manual if you're going to work on it yourself. I prefer the factory Yamaha manual myself, but alot of people on here like the Clymer's. the Yamaha manual does a really good job of showing and explaining things, I have never looked at a Clymer's so I don't know. Unfortunately, the Yamaha book is more money. Also, make sure you have a good torque wrench, follow the torque specs, and pay attention if the spec is in inch/pounds or foot/pounds. Good Luc.k

[90Bansheedude]

I was talking about the rear wheel hub bolt pattern to hold the wheel on, however alot of them did get hubs with the 4x115 pattern swapped on so they would be the same as the other years. If the idler gear wobbles at all it needs a new bushing or a new gear, if it wobbles, it will eventually flip the snap ring and washer off the shaft and run them thruogh the other gears. You need to see how much clearance the hooks on the shift shaft have on the pin. The screw/pin that the big spring for the shift shaft sits on is an eccentric to adjust the shift shaft. I don't have the specs for the crank. All of this stuff is covered in the service manual, along with all the torque specs. You really should have a service manual if you're going to work on it yourself. I prefer the factory Yamaha manual myself, but alot of people on here like the Clymer's. the Yamaha manual does a really good job of showing and explaining things, I have never looked at a Clymer's so I don't know. Unfortunately, the Yamaha book is more money. Also, make sure you have a good torque wrench, follow the torque specs, and pay attention if the spec is in inch/pounds or foot/pounds. Good Luc.k

 

I may replace the bushing for safeties sake. Im going to compare whats there to a parts breakdown, maybe thats were the piece came from that marked up the clutch basket and case!? ( I cant find anything visibly missing anywhere else anyways) Is there an online service manual anyone knows about? I know there was one for the blaster. (ill have to look and see)

 

I got the flywheel pulled off last night, and the case split, and the tranny looks like its brand new. I was surprised because of the shape of the rest of the bike.

 

Torque specs, yep im familiar with them, but maybe I should buy an inch pounds wrench now, ive borrowed one way to many times!!! LOL

[LS1Inferno]

It burnt down because (i dont care what your elevation is) 280 is waaayyyyy to lean for ANY ported motor.

[90Bansheedude]

It burnt down because (i dont care what your elevation is) 280 is waaayyyyy to lean for ANY ported motor.

 

Thats what I was thinking too, except i had about 4 less y's in my "way to lean" =).

 

What would be a good number to start at when breaking in the new top end? I hate guessing on jetting while breaking in a new top end. What do you guys do for a situation like this? Guess high and then break in awhile and then to plug test?

 

Elevation 1600-1700, Ported, K&N filter, Bills Pipes, timing (+4 maybe?), compression im not sure about (supposedly a milled head, but i dont know about that), gonna probably run 91 octane if possible. Any starter suggestions!

 

Thanks guys!

[bansheesandrider]

Thats what I was thinking too, except i had about 4 less y's in my "way to lean" =).

 

What would be a good number to start at when breaking in the new top end? I hate guessing on jetting while breaking in a new top end. What do you guys do for a situation like this? Guess high and then break in awhile and then to plug test?

 

Elevation 1600-1700, Ported, K&N filter, Bills Pipes, timing (+4 maybe?), compression im not sure about (supposedly a milled head, but i dont know about that), gonna probably run 91 octane if possible. Any starter suggestions!

 

Thanks guys!

I don't know what those pipes normally jet at but I would start with around a 320 main. With +4 timing and a milled head I would probably mix 108-110 octane 50/50 with 91 pump gas. When you get it together, Check your compression. Mine is 175psi at sea level, I run 2gals. 108 octane mixed with 3 gals. 93 octane. My timing is at +4, dune port,Boyesen reeds on ported stock cages, cut and chambered head, pipes, etc.

[90Bansheedude]

I don't know what those pipes normally jet at but I would start with around a 320 main. With +4 timing and a milled head I would probably mix 108-110 octane 50/50 with 91 pump gas. When you get it together, Check your compression. Mine is 175psi at sea level, I run 2gals. 108 octane mixed with 3 gals. 93 octane. My timing is at +4, dune port,Boyesen reeds on ported stock cages, cut and chambered head, pipes, etc.

 

Thanks, funny thing, i decided to make a post just for this question, cause nobody had responded yet, until you did right when i submitted my post! LOL

 

I can see if I can get some AV gas (not sure on the octane). I will check compression when I get it together. Ill see if anyone else chimes in here or my other post, but I think 320 sounds alot safer then staying with the 280s!!

 

Brian =)