bansheebarnes Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I run 19cc domes on 93 octane. i ride from 790 to 1295 feet. i`v bin riding them elevations for about 2 years now with these domes i never had a problem. i never did a compression check but i would have to say its under 160. hope that helps. I got 22cc domes on mine. the local gas station only has 89 octane. I was told i would have to have 93 octane to run a 20cc dome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xXBlessedWithDeathXx Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I got 22cc domes on mine. the local gas station only has 89 octane. I was told i would have to have 93 octane to run a 20cc dome. if thats the case i would stick with the 22cc domes. if you cant get the gas i wouldnt run it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Soze Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 they look cool bolted onto your motor and allow you to change domes for more compression. More compression = a bit more bottom end mostly. He has a exactly right. If your looking for more compression mill your head. Cant change domes you say? Buy like 4 stock heads and mill them...still cheaper than a cool head and all of those domes. I have a digital temp gauge and the only thing that actually dropped the temp was engine ice, by about 8 degrees, pretty impressive. I do have a billet impeller, I really dont see how that would make a difference but I guess I cant call coolheads total BS until I test it on a stock impeller. Maybe the billet impeller is creating such a greater flow, it neutralizes the cool head? Doubt it. Plus o-rings are like $20 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 He has a exactly right. If your looking for more compression mill your head. Cant change domes you say? Buy like 4 stock heads and mill them...still cheaper than a cool head and all of those domes. I have a digital temp gauge and the only thing that actually dropped the temp was engine ice, by about 8 degrees, pretty impressive. I do have a billet impeller, I really dont see how that would make a difference but I guess I cant call coolheads total BS until I test it on a stock impeller. Maybe the billet impeller is creating such a greater flow, it neutralizes the cool head? Doubt it. Plus o-rings are like $20 bucks. Milling the head changes the combustion chamber volume but also reduces your squish clearance. Too little squish can be bad. You are limited to what you can accomplish with a stock head without rechambering. Now you are talking more money then an after market head and domes. Especially when you have several stock heads that have been rechambered vs. different domes with different squish bands and varying CCs. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Soze Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 You can go .30 and be on on your squish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Bullshit Word............... The most improvement I ever was ~10% and as I recall that was probably about the tolerance of the thermocouple rig that I was using (read: pile of poo). :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Dude no bullshitin ... whoever said I was is a fucktard You'll have more bite and pep/low end to your bike when you change domes. and with your mods now, you need a better cooling system. You will feel the power when you change domes.. but back to your original statement...I would run 21cc's or 20cc's but you gotta tell us your elevation and then we can let you know if you can run those domes on 93 pump gas...but more than likey you will need a race fuel mix A cool head is not going to get you much in the way of better cooling, especially the one piece units............... If you want better cooling, you need to make sure you have a good, metal, waterpump impeller, and a clutch case that is in good shape in that area. A non-worn-out radiator cap helps alot too. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 He has a exactly right. If your looking for more compression mill your head. Cant change domes you say? Buy like 4 stock heads and mill them...still cheaper than a cool head and all of those domes. I have a digital temp gauge and the only thing that actually dropped the temp was engine ice, by about 8 degrees, pretty impressive. I do have a billet impeller, I really dont see how that would make a difference but I guess I cant call coolheads total BS until I test it on a stock impeller. Maybe the billet impeller is creating such a greater flow, it neutralizes the cool head? Doubt it. Plus o-rings are like $20 bucks. For what it's worth, an infrared temp. gun pointed at the exterior surfaces of the engine / head, probably doesn't give you much in the way of meaningful info, though it certainly can't hurt. :thumbsup: You reall need to have temp. measuring equipment in the coolant and/or on the domes the,mselves to get good information for such investigations. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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