toolman Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 I bought a used cool head for a new motor. Put it togather today ( stock stroke fresh 65.5mm bore and new Wseco prolites trued and welded crank plus 4 timing modded shift star and shaft) Now for my question the studs that came with the head seem to long i ran them down in the cylinders where the threads are even witht he top of the cylinder put the head on and the studs stick out about 3/4 of an inch so does any one knows what the lenght should be. 2stud are longer I think they go in the front of the cylinder and the shorter ones for the rest. Should I put any type of sealant on the threads. Thanks Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3SGTE Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 don't have this trouble if you buy trinity head... now you need use 10 long stud like the 2 front with the stock nuts forget the threads is there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolman Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 All of the stud are long enough. I just think they are to long even with the nut and washer on top there is still about 3/8 of an inch sticking out it looks like shit. Some of us have to build on a budget some we buy what we can get$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohiobanshee Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 The two fronts are the long ones.Mine stick above the nuts too,not sure how much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 PD head studs are longer, but they shouldnt stick out 3/4". thats what you get for not buying a sponsors product. you wouldnt have had this problem with a NOSS head. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolman Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Every part for this motor was bought from a HQ member. I can not afford to buy new stuff all the time. Now can anyone answer my question. I thought this forum was a place to get information and give information not bash people on what they have or don't have. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) what cool head is it? do the nuts bolt flush with the top, or recessed into the head. 1 peice shell, or top/bottom shell? if it's the noss with recessed nuts, then you should use the stock studs. if it's a 2 piece, plus the domes, then there are 10 tiny o-rings that go between the top and bottom pieces around the studs to seal them up. no sealant on the threads, or you can hydro-lock the holes in the cylinders, and not get them torqued right, or worse- crack the cylinders. how long were the threads that you screwed into the head? edit--> i made a set of studs for mine out of some from the parts store, that were the right length, but not enough thread on one end. you could have got the same studs with your head that the guy threw in, and need to die the threads some more, so that they go in the cylinders as far as they should. did the studs look brand new? did he say where he got the studs? Edited May 31, 2009 by AKheathen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolman Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 First Thanks It is a Pro Design A top ( no recesses for the nuts) a shell and domes. I order new orings from one of the sponsors and there are the little orings that go in the center or on the shell. The stud that came with it are 8 pieces just over 66 mm long and 2 that are 71.5 mm long and 21mm threaded on both ends. With the studs threaded into the cylinders and the shell and top on it the stud sticks up to far for me with a washer and nut on its about 3/8 of an inch of threads showing. I'm going to take them out and put them in the lathe and cut them off. I was just trying to find out if they are the right ones or did the owner send me some he bought or had laying around maybe he could not get them out who know's for sure. The other question do I need to put sealant on the threads where they go into the cylinders. I'll look in my manual and see if the stock studs need sealer. Thanks Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolman Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Figured it out about 2.5" studs threaded about 3/4 of an inch work and the manual suggest red loctite.I do not like the red stuff you usally can not get back apart. The holes where the studs go are not drill into the water jacket like I thought so no need for sealer on the threads. Hope this may help in the future. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Figured it out about 2.5" studs threaded about 3/4 of an inch work and the manual suggest red loctite.I do not like the red stuff you usally can not get back apart. The holes where the studs go are not drill into the water jacket like I thought so no need for sealer on the threads. Hope this may help in the future. Tim I put my studs in with blue loctite. Never know when you may want to go back to stock studs. I only use red in applications where I can cut the bolt in two or twist it in half if I need to remove it, never in a blind hole! SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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