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More power out of the shoots and off the line?


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Hello all,

I'm curious about options with gearing via sprocket changing. Currently I have a 14/42 arrangement but I am having a hard time laying down the spank on my friend's banshee who has a pretty much stock banshee. At least that is what he tells me. He does have FMF pipes, cool head, .020 over pistons, Trinity Stage II porting, and 21x11x9 9 paddle Skat Traks. I on the other hand have a 4mil stroker with 115mm long rod, cool head, play ported, welded and port matched cases (all motor work done by Redline Racing), 22X11X8 10paddle Skat Traks, T5 pipes, 30mil carbs, V3 Reeds, +4 Swingarm, and I am sure theres more I just can't think of it right now. The last time we raced at Sand Mtn 2nd gear would fall on its face and I lose pretty much on the line. I would nearly catch my friend 3/4 way up the hill and lose by half a bike or so. I tried starting in first but that didn't work at all. I weigh probably 50lbs more than my friend which I know effects things but... Another one of my friend's said drop a tooth in front and see if that helps.

 

My question is if I go to a 13 front should I go up to a 44-45 rear or leave it at 13/42? I also like going up the steep shoots in Oregon's dunes and I am afraid with my current issue with 2nd gear I won't be able to get out of some of the real steep ones because I will lose wheel speed. As an added note, I just bought the 22x11x8 Skat paddles from a 20x10x10 10 paddle arrangement because I would just spin the tires and not really go anywhere while drag racing but for the most part they were fine for the shoots. Anyone have some advice here?

 

Thanks for your time.

Jason

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what jetting are you running for that motor. cam motor should run pretty well.

 

if you take off in first im sure you grab neutral but does it take off better.????

 

also what timing are yourunning.

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this could be any number of things. traction, rider weight, jetting, timing, etc..

 

i think youre undercarbed. i would be running at least 33mm carbs and id lean more towards 35mm.

 

id get the jetting spot on and then figure out where your issues are.

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When Redline Racing did the motor he reinstalled it into my bike and ran it on the dyno for over an hour and jetted the carbs accordingly to the heigth above sea level for Sand Mtn. Which I think that is around 5000ft. He also told me that using a 34-35mm carb was just wasting fuel and that my bike wouldn't do that much better. He actually said that the stock carbs bored would be better. This guy consistently builds Dune Fest and Sand Fest winning banshee motors.

 

As far as timing goes it's advanced 5 degrees. Do any of you feel that changing the sprockets will make that much of a difference? I have a 13 tooth sprocket to switch out the front. My friend said that this will give me more out of the hole speed but I will lose top end, which I have a ton of.

 

When I tried take off in 1st I missed 2nd twice and in wound out neutral which is where I lost the lead. At the take off to race up Sand Mtn's drag hill there are a bunch of whoops. I can't shift fast enough to not get stuck in neutral. As far as the shoots go there typically aren't any bumps before the climb upwards.

 

Thanks again

Jason

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i run a 13 in front and like it alot better. you should just swap it out and see if you like it. if at the end of the day you dont like it, big deal, you only spent 20 mins total of your time to swap it. no t much to lose here...

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You need to tun whatever setup Cameron tells you to run. Call him and ask him what he recommends for the complaints you have about the power delivery. Off the bat your bike should pound the ass off that stock bike your buddy has. I imagne the jetting and some small things with the setup are not right. Everyone always thinks they know what they are doing. I look at bikes all the time that run "Good" according to the customer. We make a bunch of changes, and now they run "Awesome". So, listening to your builder and not doing stuff because its cool or popular is fairly important. You cant build a idiot hole bike, and a drag racer all in one. Your gonna need to pick a direction and build the bike around that.

 

Off the bat with the setup you mentioned you had, for holes I dont like Pipes, the reeds, and the gearing. You never gave a compression number, but I like around 175-185 for the holes.

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I honestly don't know what the compression is. As far as the pipes and reeds which do you prefer? And, yes I am going to call Cameron and tell him my problem and see what he says because I don't want to make wholesale changes only to find out that I am going the wrong way with the bike. I actually like riding the holes a lot more (or as you call them idiot holes) but lately we have been going to Sand Mtn and that's all my friend likes to do is drag race. I hate when he constantly razzes me that he has far less in his bike and he consistently kicks my ass on the mountain. I would like to lay ONE spank down and that's it. For the rest of my summer trips I will be up in Coos in June and Florence in July and maybe Winchester in late August early September so I wont be drag racing I will be shootin the holes and side hillin.

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Well, I can name some stuff but your not set up right for it.

 

If you want to keep heading in the direction that your motor is built. Some boyeseen dual stage reeds will add some snap to the midrange. A set of better mid-top pipes would probably free up a few hp (cpi's). More than likely alot of your problem is going to be jetting and setup changes like gearing, compression, and timing.

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Well, I can name some stuff but your not set up right for it.

 

If you want to keep heading in the direction that your motor is built. Some boyeseen dual stage reeds will add some snap to the midrange. A set of better mid-top pipes would probably free up a few hp (cpi's). More than likely alot of your problem is going to be jetting and setup changes like gearing, compression, and timing.

 

 

Your killing all your top end with those pos t5's. Either get some CPI's or shearers.

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Like I already said...

You already have a 13 tooth, just put it on there and see what it does. However, from your previous launch description, a 13 tooth might not be enough, might want to just go straight to a 12??? At any rate, for a $15 sprocket what's it going to hurt?

Several of us ride at Horsfall/Hauser and our setups include T-5's, I am also familiar with Red Line T-5 porting... A 12 tooth will make your set-up come to life! And you will still have plenty of top speed for everything but maybe the Hauser flats??? Maybe?

If you don't have it figured out the next time you make Coos, get ahold of me :biggrin:

BTW, what octane fuel did Red Line tell you to run?

 

edited for: sphelling

Edited by deckheight
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Just throwing this out there but if u have a lightened flywheel won't that give you more out of the hole

 

Lightened flywheel will give you faster acceleration, but take away some holeshot inertia. I do run a lightened flywheel though.

 

I personally would not run a 12 tooth front sprocket. Its too small in my mind and will wear through your chain slider on the front of the swingarm. They also tend to bind the links on the chain as compared to a 13 or a 14. I run the holes in Oregon, and I have 22x11x8 10 paddle hauler extreme super lights. I run 13/46 gearing with them.

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Cameron at Redline Racing told me that CPI pipes are great if I want to drag race but my T5s are good for what I want to do. He told me to try the 13 tooth in the front and a 44 or 45 in the back. I do have a lightened fly wheel too.

 

I run 110 octance or 118 depending on availability and price but I lean more to the 110. I also run a 36:1 mixture with Iridium plugs.

 

Deckheight - my friends, family and I will be up in Coos June 17th thru 22nd at Myrtlewood Campground. If your riding that area that weekend come by we'll have plenty of cervasas(sp?). Hopefully I'll have this figured out by then but seeing how I have no riding areas near my house more than likely my first day in Coos will be trying to setup my bike.

 

Thanks for everyones help. If you have any other ideas or suggestions keep them coming otherwise thanks for the great advice. I am looking into getting 33 or 35mil carbs but I am holding off changing to CPIs for now.

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