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Clutch engagement point


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My clutch is bone stock with the exception of a pancake bearing. Plates are stock with probably 30-40 hrs on them.

 

The engagement point doesn't happen until the clutch lever is almost fully disengaged. More specifically, the clutch doesn't grab until the clutch lever is about 85-90% released. It shifts fine and doesn't do anything strange, but its hard to get a decent launch when the engagement point is so far out.

 

I've adjusted it at the pressure plate per the manual and ensured the marks are lined up when they should be. I dont have a micrometer to measure the plates. What would your best educated guess be?

 

In all my years of owning bikes and quads I've never seen a clutch lose its engagement point by this much no matter how worn the plates are. Is this just how banshee's are? I bought it used and its been like this since day 1.

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i dont get what you mean. Alright by 85-90% released do you mean the clutch lever is almost all the way out and not right near the bars?

If so i dont see the problem. if you pull the clutch to the bars with max adjustment on the perch and the clutch doesnt disengage than you would need to adjust the clutch behind the clutch cover

Edited by TwistedSheeRida
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i dont get what you mean. Alright by 85-90% released do you mean the clutch lever is almost all the way out and not right near the bars?

If so i dont see the problem. if you pull the clutch to the bars with max adjustment on the perch and the clutch doesnt disengage than you would need to adjust the clutch behind the clutch cover

 

I'm having a hard time describing it. This should help....

 

 

Most clutches disengagement point is more like the bottom picture (or at least in the ballpark) and it happens relatively close to the bar/grip. My clutch doesn't disengage until its almost fully out, like the top pic.

Clutch2and4finger.jpg

Of course these pics aren't true renditions, but they'll get my point across. I hope.

 

I've adjusted it at the pressure plate so the marks align perfectly. Is this not how it should be done with the pancake bearing installed?

Is there a method to assembling the clutch pack that I'm not aware of and it could be assembled wrong?

 

The basket and hub have never been removed, only the pressure plate and clutch plates.

 

thanks!

 

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I ignored the arrows completely when I put my pancake bearing in.

Loosen the adjustment at the clutch perch and put the pressure plate on with no springs or bolts. Turn the adjuster until the pressure plate moves, then back off 1/4 turn.

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With a pancake bearing in place, you dont use the arrows ontop the case. It wont work because the bearing and washer adds about 1/8" to everything in there therefor throwing off the arrows. You just screw the adjuster all the way in till it hits the ball making everything in there tight then back off 1/4 turn. Just make sure have a tiny bit of play so everything in there isnt always touching.

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I ignored the arrows completely when I put my pancake bearing in.

Loosen the adjustment at the clutch perch and put the pressure plate on with no springs or bolts. Turn the adjuster until the pressure plate moves, then back off 1/4 turn.

Yup. And I believe you meant the clutch isn't engaging until it's almost out. Not dis-engaging. I think that's what threw everyone for a loop.

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