dirtclod20 Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 I put some 28PWK's on my bike and one of the carbs just pours fuel out the bottom. So I took it apart and checked the float, put it back together and it did the same thing. SO I take it apart again and it finally quit leaking. When it starts up, it runs fat on the bottom, hard to start and I've noticed that the spark is weak or not at all. I really am amazed when the bike starts because you can't see the spark hardly at all during a spark test it. I'm planning on putting my stock stator back on for starters, if that doesn't work I'll try to hunt down a dyna cdi box. Then I'll probably replace the spark plug caps or wires/and coil if it's still not running by then. Has anyone ever had a rich running symptoms because the spark was to weak to burn the fuel or is this a crazy thought? My last hope if I do all this work and I'm still at stillmate, is to float the ground and do a DC conversion with or without a battery I don't care. Can I fry anything by hooking up 12volts to the coil so that I know it's hot? Thanks for any help or luck in advice. Marcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted May 15, 2009 Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 you said you might put the stock stator back on? so, do you currently have like a rickey stator on it? if so, why did you change it in the 1st place? rickey stators are junk. also, check you pickup coil gap maybe. the reason that one carb was leaking gas, was because either the needle for the seat is junk, or the float height is off. probably the last thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darthwall Posted May 15, 2009 Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 X2 ricky's are only problems waiting to happen get rid of it just run the stock one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtclod20 Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 X2 ricky's are only problems waiting to happen get rid of it just run the stock one What's the proper spacing from the pickup coil? Secondly, my factory stator go moisture in the stator housing and rusted up half my stator. I wire brushed it and shined it up best I could. I'll post back any change or movement in progress. Marcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtclod20 Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 What's the proper spacing from the pickup coil? Secondly, my factory stator go moisture in the stator housing and rusted up half my stator. I wire brushed it and shined it up best I could. I'll post back any change or movement in progress. Marcus Well I'm back and the bike is running. Ricky Stator's are absolute $%!T. My old rusted ass 12 year old stator went on and start providing spark off the first kick. I'm running 50pilots 1 turn out, JJH needle on 2nd from top, but may lower 1 clip and see if any changes come, and 155 main jet which I may go bigger and see what happens. I'm running uni dual stage pods. Bike starts very quickly with almost a half a kick, idles nice and smooth. Has killer mid-range, however I think the clutch is slipping. Once the powerband starts to hit, the tires break loose for a few seconds and then the power just levels as soon as it hooks, but it's revving. I have a shit tusk clutch kit with barnett heavy springs 3, I will put the other 3 heavy duty springs in, adjust the clutch, change my oil and see what happens before I go changing anything. Don't need more power if I can't harness what I already have! For anyone fighting a poor running shee and has a beloved RIcky Stator because of a timing plate or it cool looks. Throw it away and put the timing plate on the factory stator before you wind up selling your shee because you keep scratching your head wondering WTF is wrong with it. THanks for all the advise from those who helped me trouble shoot this rascal. Marcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtclod20 Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Well I'm back and the bike is running. Ricky Stator's are absolute $%!T. My old rusted ass 12 year old stator went on and start providing spark off the first kick. I'm running 50pilots 1 turn out, JJH needle on 2nd from top, but may lower 1 clip and see if any changes come, and 155 main jet which I may go bigger and see what happens. I'm running uni dual stage pods. Bike starts very quickly with almost a half a kick, idles nice and smooth. Has killer mid-range, however I think the clutch is slipping. Once the powerband starts to hit, the tires break loose for a few seconds and then the power just levels as soon as it hooks, but it's revving. I have a shit tusk clutch kit with barnett heavy springs 3, I will put the other 3 heavy duty springs in, adjust the clutch, change my oil and see what happens before I go changing anything. Don't need more power if I can't harness what I already have! For anyone fighting a poor running shee and has a beloved RIcky Stator because of a timing plate or it cool looks. Throw it away and put the timing plate on the factory stator before you wind up selling your shee because you keep scratching your head wondering WTF is wrong with it. THanks for all the advise from those who helped me trouble shoot this rascal. Marcus Well my latest findings are that 155mains were to fat, @145's now and I'm dropping down to 142's or 140's. I hope that it clears the last bit of WOT miss. This jetting has been a nice learning experience, the 155 mains worked great without a air filter, but a dual stage UNI pod/outerwears made me drop more than 10 main sizes and counting. However the bike is responsive and I see what changes the bike wants me to make which is nice. Needle is still second clip from the top, and one thing I noticed was a need for some permatex in the air screw hole. I was setting it 1 turn out and riding for a bit and noticing it almost 2 or more turns out. Hopefully that will lock it in place from vibrations. I did a compression test and yielded 130 even on both cyclinders, which I consider decent for a motor broken in on synthetic oil. Last thing I'll need to do after it's dialed in is install a timing plate and give it a few degrees of timing. This doesn't require any more fuel whatsoever does it? Thanks Marcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 you're probably missing the spring that goes under the airscrew. check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtclod20 Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 you're probably missing the spring that goes under the airscrew. check. I'll dig around and check it out, but I don't remember those little guys in there the times I've had them apart. Do you think I must have them or will the permatex take care of it? Looks like I'll be on the top notch of the needle also. I'll report back after I've done some more tuning this afternoon. Marcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtclod20 Posted June 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 I'll dig around and check it out, but I don't remember those little guys in there the times I've had them apart. Do you think I must have them or will the permatex take care of it? Looks like I'll be on the top notch of the needle also. I'll report back after I've done some more tuning this afternoon. Marcus Dear Diary, F$ED with bike all day. Ruined another set of plugs and still need another trip to the honda store for 48 pilot jets. My 50's run okay 3.5 turns out, but crappy @ 4 turns out, and the springs are in there. I took them out and gave them a little stretch just for safe measure. Needle is happy on 2nd clip from the top, not the top. It likes +5 timing, but I don't know if the 135mains are lean or just right. I'll leave it alone until i clear up this low rpm load up crap. Runs almost flawless once moving, but sitting around waiting to move it loads up. Idle to 1/2 throttle is like taking off in high gear although I'm not. Hard to start, about ruined a pair of sperry's kicking. Only starts good with 5 minutes after just running or else it's back to the chokes even if you burn you hands on the pipes. I'm going to make a tuning foot peg and a riding foot peg. One that allows better range of motion, not just 1/4 kicks. So plan is to install 48pilots .5 turn out and see if it runs well or I need to turn it out more. If it runs good I may try a 138 or 140 main and see if it picks up or falls off. Leave timing alone, but buy another 10 pack of NGK's!!! I figured today that if i hadn't bought this banshee 9 years ago I would never work on anything. I've owned honda dirt bikes and a 400ex which required no working on it was just slow. Ktm's need some love, but this banshee is a time comsuming SOB. Report back any changes. Marcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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