bunga's Posted April 29, 2009 Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 well im new on this forum , hi all. i know you guys have probebly been asked a million times but.. i was ripping along on my banshee and it died in the most misserable way. it just lost power down to an idle and just puttered along like a choaked rat. i thought beuty bad fuel again(our only fuel station in town sells a nice mix of water in thier fuel) pulled out the carbs and behold the fuel had water in it again. well i cleaned it and it wouldnt go unless it was tow started and it would just idle and choke and splutter so i sent it to the shop 4 hours away in the most ugly town in wa. they said we cant do much because we dont have a qualified bike mec... but hey they cleaned my carbs for 460 bucks "tuning included in the price" and told me that there was no spark*ponders how they tuned it with no spark* well they said it must be the coil. they ordered me a new coil and put it in still no spark and 300 bucks for a new coil" i have a spare now woot" so i took it home and found a outstanding faq sheet on banshee hq that told me how to test it myself. everything was fine until i tested the stator coil and in the faq sheet is says it has to be between 13.5 and 20.5 any more and its cactus. it came up as 24.7, so i priced up a re wound for 430 bucks. but i dont wanna part with the cash until im sure its the problem. everything else came in where it should be on the faq sheet. the last owner drowned it and killed the stator coil in it and put a re wound in and when i took the cover off it had fresh water marks in there so i think maybe thats my issue. can anyone confirm that my stator coil is cactuc from the info given please thanks guys oh or is there a better price/place in west aus for a part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 29, 2009 Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 it was likely re-wound for more power, and the higher resistance is coming from the few extra wraps. you can test it by hooking a turn signal bulb to the red/white and green/white wires. it should light it bright, and maybey blow the bulb when you kick it over. kick those guys in the nads for charging over $700 without knowing what they are doing and fix it yourself, because you can probably use the money to fix what's really wrong. first things first, clean your stator with electrical cleaner (the plastic/sensor safe kind) and make sure your pickup gap is set on both nodes to buisness card thickness. do a compression check, and check your reeds. does it idle good, but sputter and pop when you try to rev it? if so, make sure your e-brake wires are unplugged from your clutch perch. (if that's the prob. go rub it in their faces before you assault the nadulars) check for melted wires on the exhaust, especially by the airbox. what are your mods, temp, elevation, and jet sizes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunga's Posted April 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 it was likely re-wound for more power, and the higher resistance is coming from the few extra wraps. you can test it by hooking a turn signal bulb to the red/white and green/white wires. it should light it bright, and maybey blow the bulb when you kick it over. kick those guys in the nads for charging over $700 without knowing what they are doing and fix it yourself, because you can probably use the money to fix what's really wrong. first things first, clean your stator with electrical cleaner (the plastic/sensor safe kind) and make sure your pickup gap is set on both nodes to buisness card thickness. do a compression check, and check your reeds. does it idle good, but sputter and pop when you try to rev it? if so, make sure your e-brake wires are unplugged from your clutch perch. (if that's the prob. go rub it in their faces before you assault the nadulars) check for melted wires on the exhaust, especially by the airbox. what are your mods, temp, elevation, and jet sizes? its basicly standard. i was told that it has bigger jets in it but its been sold so many times in town i dont know for sure because idiots keep comming off, last guy got scalped. sooks wont talk about it. i thought about that light thing, my thought was that usualy the headlamps glow when i kick but it all seems dead as a maggot. as for the pickup gap , well its gotta be .5 to 1 cm apart atm, i havnt touched it for the fear. i will do the clean trick and get back to you on that cause i havnt got the flywheel off yet. im just pulling my hair out cause i need to go for a squirt to get the heart goin again and my honda trx just hasnt got what it takes. oh while your here, ive heard a rumor theres a top end from another bike that just bolts on and makes it a 640 strait up with bugger all mods? is this true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 29, 2009 Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 it's pretty easy to set the pickup gap. just roll it over to the node, loosen the screws, and push it up against the node, with the buisness card in between, and tighten the screws=done. you can get all kinds of bolt-on topends and have them built, but you should probably start with the first holly shit mod- pipes. with any airflow mod, like air filter/box setup, reeds, exhaust, etc., make sure your jetting is right, or you can melt your pistons pretty damn quick. there is a jetting section on this forum just for that. make sure you only use the specific flywheel puller to remove the flywheel. they damage easy with other pullers/methods, and you can't always tell. your headlights are on a different circut on the stator, so that's not an indicator for your stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 29, 2009 Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 oh while your here, ive heard a rumor theres a top end from another bike that just bolts on and makes it a 640 strait up with bugger all mods? is this true? 421cc's is about the biggest bolt on / no machining required size. It requires a 4 mill stroker crank, and a 68mm bore cub cylinder. It is about 90 hp out of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunga's Posted April 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 (edited) it was likely re-wound for more power, and the higher resistance is coming from the few extra wraps. you can test it by hooking a turn signal bulb to the red/white and green/white wires. it should light it bright, and maybey blow the bulb when you kick it over. kick those guys in the nads for charging over $700 without knowing what they are doing and fix it yourself, because you can probably use the money to fix what's really wrong. first things first, clean your stator with electrical cleaner (the plastic/sensor safe kind) and make sure your pickup gap is set on both nodes to buisness card thickness. do a compression check, and check your reeds. does it idle good, but sputter and pop when you try to rev it? if so, make sure your e-brake wires are unplugged from your clutch perch. (if that's the prob. go rub it in their faces before you assault the nadulars) check for melted wires on the exhaust, especially by the airbox. what are your mods, temp, elevation, and jet sizes? The light bulb trick came up not so good, didnt even get a glow out of it no matter how hard i kicked, bugger i think im gonna be stuck until i get a flywheel puller. e-brake wires?is that the wires that connect to the switch on the foot break peddal? i cant find them on the wire diagram.. what does that switch do anyway?is it for the tail light? Edited April 29, 2009 by bunga's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 29, 2009 Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 what kind of bulb did you use? too big of a bulb won't work. the e-brake wires are connected at the cluttch lever on the handle bars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunga's Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 (edited) what kind of bulb did you use? too big of a bulb won't work. the e-brake wires are connected at the cluttch lever on the handle bars just a 12v 55w indicator bulb. i think the stator is no good it wont even produce volts on a multi meter. i thought that it would work having good continuity but go figure. im gonna rip it out and get it tested. 2 wheel wreckers in perth have a re wound for 430 bucks which is alot better than the 850 yamaha wants for a new one. they said on the fone they will test it on thier "grizzly" for me as well. just a matter of me working out how to get the fly wheel off without a puller. spoke to the last owner and he said he pulled it off with a jimmy bar last time.....hack. the 17mm nut that holds it on is ugly stripped too but the thread looks good, so sad Edited April 30, 2009 by bunga's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 just a 12v 55w indicator bulb. i think the stator is no good it wont even produce volts on a multi meter. i thought that it would work having good continuity but go figure. im gonna rip it out and get it tested. 2 wheel wreckers in perth have a re wound for 430 bucks which is alot better than the 850 yamaha wants for a new one. they said on the fone they will test it on thier "grizzly" for me as well. just a matter of me working out how to get the fly wheel off without a puller. spoke to the last owner and he said he pulled it off with a jimmy bar last time.....hack. the 17mm nut that holds it on is ugly stripped too but the thread looks good, so sad :woot: aaaaakkkk!!!!!!! NO, NO, AND NO!!! ok, first, it will never power a 55watter. 10-13 at the most, which is why i said tail light bulb. a dome light will work, too, but a tail light bulb will put it under a good load. second, it will not really work on a grizzly, stop going to those guys. third, your flywheel probably shit the magnets if you're not getting anything, but are reading resistance, especially if it's been pryed on. fourth, buy your shit online from now on. re- winding a stator should be in the 50 range, not 450 range. i can get you one from a guy on here for 40 + shipping. look in the 4 sale section on here for a flywheel, and call jeff first thing in the morning to get a puller and go from there. he'll probably talk you through checking out your flywheel and stator once you get it off, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunga's Posted May 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 :woot: aaaaakkkk!!!!!!! NO, NO, AND NO!!! ok, first, it will never power a 55watter. 10-13 at the most, which is why i said tail light bulb. a dome light will work, too, but a tail light bulb will put it under a good load. second, it will not really work on a grizzly, stop going to those guys. third, your flywheel probably shit the magnets if you're not getting anything, but are reading resistance, especially if it's been pryed on. fourth, buy your shit online from now on. re- winding a stator should be in the 50 range, not 450 range. i can get you one from a guy on here for 40 + shipping. look in the 4 sale section on here for a flywheel, and call jeff first thing in the morning to get a puller and go from there. he'll probably talk you through checking out your flywheel and stator once you get it off, too. oh sweet, where do i find his number. im assuming hes not in aus prob a good idea to know the timezone too im pretty sure we are 12n half hours diff from texas. my bad with the light.. and hell yer if i can get stuff that cheep dang ill order it on the net. those prices are the best i could track down local. i hadnt realy considered ordering from over seas. you guys are amazing, i cant believe how much we get ripped off for stuff here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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