millertime Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) well i bought a brand new lockout for my boys banshee.. first i put a baranett clutch with the heavy duty springs in... so when we ride it it won't shift tell you let it come almost back to a idle.. so then i put the softer springs in.. alittle better, but still really sucks.. i am wondering if it is from the baranett clutch plates ? are they alittle thiner making the arms on the lockout to close to much and not want to unlock when you pull the clutch ? it is on a 4 mill.... i put one on me yfz and it works with out any problems.. thanks for any help Edited April 28, 2009 by millertime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Some people have luck with a lockout and being able to shit without an override, some don't. What kind of motor do you have that you need a lockout and not just a quality clutch and some HD springs? Most of the time, in the Banshee World, a lockout is coupled with an override tranny, no clutch needed to shift. Is the basket, inner hub and pressure plate in good working order, and do you have enough slack in the clutch cable? Is the shifter adjusted properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Some people have luck with a lockout and being able to shit without an override, some don't. What kind of motor do you have that you need a lockout and not just a quality clutch and some HD springs? Most of the time, in the Banshee World, a lockout is coupled with an override tranny, no clutch needed to shift. Is the basket, inner hub and pressure plate in good working order, and do you have enough slack in the clutch cable? Is the shifter adjusted properly? Another question: Who made the lockout? (I'm asking since they are not all made the same, and I am aware of atleast a couple that seem to be really low quality). :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millertime Posted April 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) it is a 4 mil, 18cc domes, 34mm carbs,,, cpi pipes... my boy is a big boy , and we race up dunes at st. anthony dunes.. he is hard on clutches.... clutch and plates barnd new,,, new inner clutch boss.. clutch basket looks good.. no groveing... oh it is a direct drive lockout and cover ya the shifter centering pin is adjusted... tryed more slack in the cable and less.. no differance Edited April 28, 2009 by millertime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 With that kind of weight, power and load on the motor...I think you might be facing the nature of the beast. Dunable override in your future? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatguy Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Man i'm in the same boat! Got a lockout on mine maybe have 4 or 5 hours on the motor and now it wont shift. Soon as i get the money saved up its goin back to M&M for a overide. I was warned before i opted not to do the o/r that this was prolly gonna happen. Wish i would have listened Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BellicoseBanshee Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 I think you might be facing the nature of the beast. Dunable override in your future? I agree... Even with the bottom end adjusted correctly and within operating specifications, some just will not shift under load... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millertime Posted April 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 ok... i guess the next qustion is ......... who make a good duneable override.. and decent price.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 I must be one of the lucky ones. I dont have a problem shifting with my direct drive. I too have the barnett clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 With that kind of weight, power and load on the motor...I think you might be facing the nature of the beast. Dunable override in your future? Can someone enlighten me here: I have run Direct Drive's setup on several bikes that I have owned that made way more power than the bike in question here and I never had a problem like this. Is there some other variable that we are missing here? I am not sure the dunable override is the solution to you problem, it's just a bandage. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 In my experience, even with brand new innards and everything properly adjusted, once you get in the 80 to 90 HP range...they shift like crap. With our without a lockup. Now, is that the case with all bikes? No. Lighter riders? No. Trail riders not hooking up as much as a slick tired street bike or paddled tired dune bike? No. With the motor revving to the moon and the clutch not disengaging all the way (hence the motor coming back to near idle) it's only gonna make it shift even worse. I'm a big guy, and I ride in sand. Sounds like this guys is in a similar boat. As long as his tranny components are in good shape (it sounds like his clutch is new and/or in good working order) it's my opinion he's at the limit of what a stock tranny can do with this setup in his enviornment. I've tried shift pro kits, rounded shift stars, trannys with every other dog cut...they all help it shift "better" but not like it should. And... I have pretty good pricing on overrides... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickisGod Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 o no, i just bought one....from direct drive. i hope this dosnt happen, im only getting this because i do plan on reaching the 90hp area sometime next season but for this season i need to build my quad up to be ready for the punishment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamaha11 Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) he will sell you a sweet overide i have 2 of them love them and hes a great help with question Edited April 28, 2009 by yamaha11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 I had an 80 to 85 horse gas dunner and had the same problems shifting w/just stiff springs. I tried everything as well. Went w/the override, shifted like butter but started burning up clutches. Finally got a lockup and never had another problem. My buddies bike is in the 70 horse range and he has never had a problem shifting it. I get on it, and works good for me as well...I have no idea why??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 In my experience, even with brand new innards and everything properly adjusted, once you get in the 80 to 90 HP range...they shift like crap. With our without a lockup. Now, is that the case with all bikes? No. Lighter riders? No. Trail riders not hooking up as much as a slick tired street bike or paddled tired dune bike? No. With the motor revving to the moon and the clutch not disengaging all the way (hence the motor coming back to near idle) it's only gonna make it shift even worse. I'm a big guy, and I ride in sand. Sounds like this guys is in a similar boat. As long as his tranny components are in good shape (it sounds like his clutch is new and/or in good working order) it's my opinion he's at the limit of what a stock tranny can do with this setup in his enviornment. I've tried shift pro kits, rounded shift stars, trannys with every other dog cut...they all help it shift "better" but not like it should. And... I have pretty good pricing on overrides... I am not a small guy and I think that I ride or used to race in similar circumstances. I use a shift pro kit and a modified star with mostly aftermarket drive/clutch components.............. I just don't have the same type of problems. In any case, if you make sure you break torque to shift like you do with any type of transmission, then I still believe there is something else wrong here. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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