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Really disappointed or my clutch is slipping


Gshock

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Just reassembled my Banshee. New FAST dune port, 35PWKs, +4 timing, 20cc domes, stock stroke, V3s, pump gas, 155psi and 1300 ft. I have done a plug chop, sync'd carbs and are jetted pretty close to perfect(165 mains)(middle clip on needle). Engine is fully broken in with about 4 tanks of fuel. Seems like it has real deceit low end power than it makes a lot of noise and revs like hell but it seems to have a flat spot in the power then it will finally come on. It will barely out drag my wifes 01 craptor. I hope my clutch is slipping, but it is slipping in mid range. I guess I will try a new clutch from Jeff and hope it gets better. Just not the power rush I expected. Will a clutch slip like this in mid range? I know it is porbably a dumb question because I am still running a low hour 05 stock clutch. If not I think I am ready for a 4mil and a cub. I am afraid my buddies 525 outlaw will smoke me. How much more power would I gain from changing domes and running race fuel? Thanks for any ideas.

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Call Jeff, he will help you. He would much rather help you get your setup correct than have you making posts like this.

I really didn't mean to be slamming any of his work at all. I was just trying to get information about the possibility of my clutch slipping and how much more power I could expect from changing my compression and running race gas.

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do your clutch arm arrows line up how old is your clutch when you assembled it was the fibers really smooth and the steels and dis coloring if so its time for a new one.

This Banshee was almost new when I got it and has been ridden very little. (4 tanks of gas) Clutch "was" in perfect working order. It had good compression on stock pistons when I dissambled it. I have always kept my clutch lever adjusted with a little play. What do you mean by clutch arm arrows?

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I love compression and race gas,add a lil timing with the gas and your in there.It depends what your used too,I dont think cubs are the handfull everyone makes them out to be either,im used to street bikes.If your not happy he will make it rite.

Maybe that is my problem. I had a 03 Yamaha R1. It would pass cars and ride a wheelie at the same time. It was like "oh shit do I really need to be going this fast" when you look down and it is going 158.

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This Banshee was almost new when I got it and has been ridden very little. (4 tanks of gas) Clutch "was" in perfect working order. It had good compression on stock pistons when I dissambled it. I have always kept my clutch lever adjusted with a little play. What do you mean by clutch arm arrows?

 

Check out the top of the case on the clutch side. There will be an "arrow" on the case and, a point really, on the clutch arm. These two should line up, with the appropriate amount of freeplay. If you've adjust freeplay correctly and they don't line up, you've got clutch wear issues to address.

 

Further, what kind of oil are you running in the tranny? Personally I've run oil with friction modifiers (most all 4-stroke motor oil has them now) which can cause the clutch to slip bad in our application. I haven't had much issue with this, but I know many have. Second, on my stock port, with mods listed below, similar, I could really put some grunt to my stock clutch and it didn't care for it. With my cylinders I just ported, I'm not even considering trying to run it through the stock clutch and I'm just betting Jeff has done enough port work to probably make a little more power than I'm making out of my port work. :cool: Midrange does actually make sense for slipping. If you think about it, you probably get some good spin on launch, dirt or sand? But by midrange when the bike is really starting to pull, the tires also have enough momentum that they don't want to slip nearly as much, so the power seeks out the weakest point, most likely your clutch. On the top, the power curve probably isn't as radical and the clutch "catches up" and you start to feel the pull again.

 

I'm not a pro builder by any means, but just my $.02. I agree with sheefreak's comment, but I'm sure Jeff would square you away on the phone or on here too. Get his clutch, that's what's going back in mine. Think it was using R6 fibers, or some other street bike, plus 3 HD springs, so should hold good power! - Brian

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Check out the top of the case on the clutch side. There will be an "arrow" on the case and, a point really, on the clutch arm. These two should line up, with the appropriate amount of freeplay. If you've adjust freeplay correctly and they don't line up, you've got clutch wear issues to address.

 

Further, what kind of oil are you running in the tranny? Personally I've run oil with friction modifiers (most all 4-stroke motor oil has them now) which can cause the clutch to slip bad in our application. I haven't had much issue with this, but I know many have. Second, on my stock port, with mods listed below, similar, I could really put some grunt to my stock clutch and it didn't care for it. With my cylinders I just ported, I'm not even considering trying to run it through the stock clutch and I'm just betting Jeff has done enough port work to probably make a little more power than I'm making out of my port work. :cool: Midrange does actually make sense for slipping. If you think about it, you probably get some good spin on launch, dirt or sand? But by midrange when the bike is really starting to pull, the tires also have enough momentum that they don't want to slip nearly as much, so the power seeks out the weakest point, most likely your clutch. On the top, the power curve probably isn't as radical and the clutch "catches up" and you start to feel the pull again.

 

I'm not a pro builder by any means, but just my $.02. I agree with sheefreak's comment, but I'm sure Jeff would square you away on the phone or on here too. Get his clutch, that's what's going back in mine. Think it was using R6 fibers, or some other street bike, plus 3 HD springs, so should hold good power! - Brian

 

 

 

 

Yep. Upgrade your clutch and run HD springs.That's your problem. Is your oil black? Can you smell burnt clutch in it? I'd guess yes.

 

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I would guess you need a clutch. I have an HJR dune ported 4 mill with 35 pwks. first time out with good tires it smoked my clutch. I know the feeling your talking about. it rides around fine, but when your ripping on it doesn't feel right and its revving its ass off. I switched to a fast clutch now and have no problems, feels way better!

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I would guess you need a clutch. I have an HJR dune ported 4 mill with 35 pwks. first time out with good tires it smoked my clutch. I know the feeling your talking about. it rides around fine, but when your ripping on it doesn't feel right and its revving its ass off. I switched to a fast clutch now and have no problems, feels way better!

I will just upgrade my clutch and give that a try. Arrows are pretty much lined up. I will also drain and check oil later.

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if your clutch has as lil time as you say it should be ok. it not like you were drag racing it over and over and wore it out i dont think.

 

guess try a new one and go from there.

 

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Are you sure about that plug chop ??

It seems to me that you are pretty rich on the main.

I got a 4mil passion dune port running at about 1200 feet.

I only have 158 mains in on 35mm PWKs with k&n pods and CPI inframes.

 

Maybe you do have a problem with the clutch, but I would recheck the jetting.

As stated above, give Jeff a call and see what he says.

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Make sure your clutch is adjusted and bike is properly jetting. I was ported and i ran HD springs on a stock clutch and i was fine. I beat the hell out of my bike too. I used to dump it all day long trying to ride wheelies too.

 

Please make sure you entire bike is set up right before you go bolt on some power. That wont help you if you cant set up a bike right. I know it's frustrating but it pays off.

Edited by RagunCajun
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