lian Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 does anybody know what the difference between the vitos key and the stock banshee key. i bought one off one of the site members and i cant tell the difference. so does anybody have pictures or ne thing to help me tell the difference. i am also looking for a stator and a flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 is it a +4 timing key? if so, it should have an offset in it. stay away from degree keys. get a timing plate. more reliable and you can advance or retard timing. PM NYUK here on HQ. he probably has a stator and a flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bama boy Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 is it a +4 timing key? if so, it should have an offset in it. stay away from degree keys. get a timing plate. more reliable and you can advance or retard timing. PM NYUK here on HQ. he probably has a stator and a flywheel. I noticed you said stay away from the degree key. Mine has one. Do you suggest i put the stock key back in and get a timing plate instead? Why is the key bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dusty_v141 Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 they sherea off and make a mess of everything down there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duneman101 Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 I noticed you said stay away from the degree key. Mine has one. Do you suggest i put the stock key back in and get a timing plate instead? Why is the key bad? I have had a degree key in my banshee's ever since i have owned them (on number 3 in 12 years), usually just bought with them in... it is true that they can't be adjusted i admit that is a set back, but if you have your flywheel nut properly torqued down, don't worry about it shearing.... If you are ever itching to spend some money and you have it tore down, thats a great time to replace it with a plate, but i wouldn't just run out there and swap the key out for a plate just for shits and giggles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 yes, it would be better to switch back to the stock key and buy a timing plate. anyone who tells you otherwise is an idiot. its ridiculous to risk what could happen by running one. timing plates are cheap. buy one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 yes, it would be better to switch back to the stock key and buy a timing plate. anyone who tells you otherwise is an idiot. its ridiculous to risk what could happen by running one. timing plates are cheap. buy one. I'll second this! I've seen 2 keys shear and they were torqed to proper spec! Some hold up.. some dont.. Its not worth the risk to save 15 bucks IMO.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 my buddy had the STOCK key shear in his blaster. tore the living shit out of his brand new crank and flywheel. i guess i wouldnt want anything in there that would make it shear easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 The fact of the matter is with a key you're stuck with a satic timing advance. It's not like the key is 15 bucks and a stator plate is 200. A cast aluminum plate is about 45 or less shipped. A nice Chariot billet plate like I just picked up is I think 60 or so shipped... I would honestly not spend the 90 or so ProDesign wants. What if your motor likes 5 degrees, or 3...more, or less. The key doesn't account for that, the plate can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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