Darthwall Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 if that is the spacer they gave you that is tight 99% of the spacers out there today raise the cylinders up 2mm to make the stock cylinders work out a little but what that looks like to me is the exact same as running 4mm domes which can save some money and loose some at the same time! with this setup you will need to port the cylinders I would say drop the intakes 1-2mm and raise the exhaust 1mm but then again I am not a builder so I dont really know what the fuck I am talking about but anyone else have some specs to go off of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 To be honest, your cylinders are at .080. I would run a spacer below the cylinders....and run it. You don't have a ton of life on them, AND...most will agree resleeving them isn't worth the cost due to how cheap OEM cylinders can be found and the lack of transfer are left after it's sleeved. While I'm not fond of the spacer plate...in your case, I think it's the quickest, easiest and most cost effective. I would not run those spaced out head gaskets...I'd run the plate on the bottom. It will raise your port timing and there is less pressure on a base gasket than there is a head gasket/oring up top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yammyboy3 Posted March 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 alright man thanks im also doing what the previous guy said as well lower 2 raise 1 do you think its a good idea i think i might just go down 1 up one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Yea like the other guys said that is just a head spacer. With a 4 mill you need to some how fix the clearance issue. The 4 mill will allow the piston to fall 2mm farther down in to the cylinder, and it will come up out of the cylinder 2 mm. So you need to run a 2mm spacer plate under the cylinders, or run a 2mm spacer plate inbetween the cylinders and head, or run no spacer plate and cut stroker domes for a cool head. Your head spacer will do the same thing as running cut stroker domes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yammyboy3 Posted March 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 yea im waiting on a settlement to do it all but seeing as i already have a head gasket spacer plate im going to use it but im going to try to find a set of stock cylinders get some new 795 pistons get a port job bye f.a.s.t and get some 19cc domes cut in a noss head and let it sit to the side till this runs out so as far as porting im gonna just do it myself what do you think would be best just to make it run a little better with the head gasket take 2 cms off the top of the exhaust and take 2 cms out of the bottom of the intake what about my tunnels and transfers maybe 1 -2 cms off the top or the bottom ? was also thinkin about just running straight c12 with this head gasket do you think itll all hold up ?? or just run the 93 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Yea that is what I woudl do. dont for get to chamfer the ports. If you leave them with shap edges you can snag a ring and mess the cylinders up in a hurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yammyboy3 Posted March 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Yea that is what I woudl do. dont for get to chamfer the ports. If you leave them with shap edges you can snag a ring and mess the cylinders up in a hurry. what does chamfer mean ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 make it so the edge where the opeainings in the sleeves are smooth, not sharp. His explains it pretty good. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamfer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darthwall Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 basicly 45 degree where the ports are in the cylinders just so you dont catch a ring on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yammyboy3 Posted March 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 basicly 45 degree where the ports are in the cylinders just so you dont catch a ring on itO YEA i was going to do that anyways i just didnt know what it was called i called it angling lmao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasi S. Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 yea im waiting on a settlement to do it all but seeing as i already have a head gasket spacer plate im going to use it but im going to try to find a set of stock cylinders get some new 795 pistons get a port job bye f.a.s.t and get some 19cc domes cut in a noss head and let it sit to the side till this runs out so as far as porting im gonna just do it myself what do you think would be best just to make it run a little better with the head gasket take 2 cms off the top of the exhaust and take 2 cms out of the bottom of the intake what about my tunnels and transfers maybe 1 -2 cms off the top or the bottom ? was also thinkin about just running straight c12 with this head gasket do you think itll all hold up ?? or just run the 93 I think you mean 1-2mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yammyboy3 Posted March 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 yea mm whatever one is the smallest about as thick as a nickel is what im going to take out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Even 1-2MM is a lot. Little at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quad4914 Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 pORTING HELP IS LIKE THE EVIL QUESTION ON HERE. i SEARCHED FOR LIKE 4 NIGHTS STRAIGHT TRYING TO FIND WHAT i NEEDED TO DO. tHE BEST THING i CAME UP WITH WAS THIS LINK. Stolen from ODAEN, thanks for a great post. http://www.planetsand.com/programs/portmapper.zip tHIS ONE SHOWS HOW PORT HEIGHTS CHANGE THE DURATION & BLOW DOWN. BLOW DOWN SHOULD BE 30 - 35. 30 IS FOR A LIGHT GUY & BIKE ADD MORE FOR HEAVIER RIDER. I put mine at 32. iTS A DOWNLOAD BUT ITS GREAT. & tHIS IS STOLEN FROM MISTERWW425, tHANKS A MUCH MAN FOR THE FIGGURES . PORT TIMING VALUES FOR RPM RANGE. THE FIRST DURATION IN THE XXX-XXX FORMAT IS THE MIN FOR THAT RPM. EXAMPLE: TO GET TO 9000 RPM YOU HAVE TO HAVE AT LEAST 184 EXHAUST AND 123 INTAKE EXHAUST TIMING 7500 RPM 176-178 8000 RPM 180-182 8500 RPM 183-185 9000 RPM 184-186 9500 RPM 186-188 10000 RPM 190-192 10500 RPM 193-196 11000 RPM 196-198 TRANSFER TIMING 7500 RPM 120-123 8000 RPM 121-125 8500 RPM 122-126 9000 RPM 123-127 9500 RPM 124-128 10000 RPM 127-131 10500 RPM 129-133 11000 RPM 130-134 Hope this helps & I wish this was put on just as a general tip for porting. Also being easy find would be great. Like I said it took hours & hours to find this. It doesnt teach how to dirrect flow, flatten the top of the exhaust, knife edging the intake splitter, shaping the transfers, & such but it gives you a place to start your measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulvafan537240 Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 To be honest, your cylinders are at .080. I would run a spacer below the cylinders....and run it. You don't have a ton of life on them, AND...most will agree resleeving them isn't worth the cost due to how cheap OEM cylinders can be found and the lack of transfer are left after it's sleeved. While I'm not fond of the spacer plate...in your case, I think it's the quickest, easiest and most cost effective. I would not run those spaced out head gaskets...I'd run the plate on the bottom. It will raise your port timing and there is less pressure on a base gasket than there is a head gasket/oring up top. not trying to jack the thread but im curious. why is the bottom spacer plate better than the one that goes between the jugs and head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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