Ineedmoney Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 Ok this is the way i would like to go wiht my banshee. I want a fast racing banshee that can still do open fields and shit. So mx is perfect. i do jumps all the time. What i would liek to know is some basics to MX What pipes are good for mx what engine? what wheels? what suspension? ETC...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilmegill727 Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 pipes, you want some low end pipes like pro circuits, fmf gnarlys, paul turner mids, etc. engine- you want good low end so you should get a mx port for your cylinders, a adjustable timing plate with +4 timing and thats pretty much it for motor. wheels- you want to get 20 or 19" front and 18 or 19" rear mx tires. some examples are holeshot mxr4, mxr6 razrmx's etc. and you could get them on just .160 rims or .190 for extra strength. suspension- you want some aftermarket a-arms and shocks. i run wicked 2+1 a-arms. if your doing strictly mx and wide open trails you should get 3+1 a-arms. you should then get shocks like works, tcs, elka etc. also you should get a shorter swingarm for a smaller turning radius like a -1 or a -2. then you could revalve your rear shock and get it done from companys like pro pilot, tcs, works etc. or you can just get a brand new rear shock for almost $1000! hope this helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ineedmoney Posted March 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 pipes, you want some low end pipes like pro circuits, fmf gnarlys, paul turner mids, etc. engine- you want good low end so you should get a mx port for your cylinders, a adjustable timing plate with +4 timing and thats pretty much it for motor. wheels- you want to get 20 or 19" front and 18 or 19" rear mx tires. some examples are holeshot mxr4, mxr6 razrmx's etc. and you could get them on just .160 rims or .190 for extra strength. suspension- you want some aftermarket a-arms and shocks. i run wicked 2+1 a-arms. if your doing strictly mx and wide open trails you should get 3+1 a-arms. you should then get shocks like works, tcs, elka etc. also you should get a shorter swingarm for a smaller turning radius like a -1 or a -2. then you could revalve your rear shock and get it done from companys like pro pilot, tcs, works etc. or you can just get a brand new rear shock for almost $1000! hope this helped. This helped alot thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilmegill727 Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 no problem :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 I thought Pro Circuit pipes were and all around pipe like T5's/T6's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Jackson Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 I thought Pro Circuit pipes were and all around pipe like T5's/T6's? hey cajun anyway the guy snopkoywsski (spelling obviously) has done lots of dyno testing on different setups and i believe he said the best pipe for low-mid was the Pro circuit , even better than the PT mids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterlocal22 Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 my bro bro has fmf gnarlys and there a great low end pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POORBOY350 Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 theres a set of lrd pipes for sale on here for 275 they look good they are adjustable go check them out its a good deal if your wantin a low end trail kinda pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 don't forget some dual stage reeds. really picked up the low-mid and pretty much flattened the whole power curve. no moe light switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01rippnshee Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 ive got pro circuit pipes on my new bike and i really like them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 yes, at actual races sometimes there are restrictions on front end width, but open practice is pretty much outlaw. suspension is very important. might even look into long travel. on the rear a g force axle is a cheap mod to have not mentioned. having torque out of corners is always good, so a 4-7mm stoker helps higher compression timing advance +4-7 deg boyeseen 2 stage carbon fibers or vf2`s are good without porting Id go with PT mids with pv and porting pro circs, dmc or equivelent -2 swinger bead lock rims, hypers if you can afford. esp on rear. low raduis tires ~18 on rear 20 up front mxr6 in hard / meduim, gncc in med / loose. steering stablizer or flex bars 28-30mm carbs. dep on porting. a smaller carb will make better low-mid velocity. pods with outers. open box w k&n if mud or water is involved a good clutch actuation system unless you like arm pump. if you have performance clutch springs try and stager hiperf with stock. GOOD PRO PEG NERFS!!!!! front fenders cut slotted/drilled rear rotors help in mud/water braking skateboard grip tape on throttle tether of course 13t drive gear if your really into it a 250r geometry frame if your any more serious than that get a 450 lots of racing decals billet impeller and engine ice,... no air moves through a radiator full of others roosted mud and not alot of speed on a track. That all I can think of for now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt350 Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 yes, at actual races sometimes there are restrictions on front end width, but open practice is pretty much outlaw. suspension is very important. might even look into long travel. on the rear a g force axle is a cheap mod to have not mentioned. having torque out of corners is always good, so a 4-7mm stoker helps higher compression timing advance +4-7 deg boyeseen 2 stage carbon fibers or vf2`s are good without porting Id go with PT mids with pv and porting pro circs, dmc or equivelent -2 swinger bead lock rims, hypers if you can afford. esp on rear. low raduis tires ~18 on rear 20 up front mxr6 in hard / meduim, gncc in med / loose. steering stablizer or flex bars 28-30mm carbs. dep on porting. a smaller carb will make better low-mid velocity. pods with outers. open box w k&n if mud or water is involved a good clutch actuation system unless you like arm pump. if you have performance clutch springs try and stager hiperf with stock. GOOD PRO PEG NERFS!!!!! front fenders cut slotted/drilled rear rotors help in mud/water braking skateboard grip tape on throttle tether of course 13t drive gear if your really into it a 250r geometry frame if your any more serious than that get a 450 lots of racing decals billet impeller and engine ice,... no air moves through a radiator full of others roosted mud and not alot of speed on a track. That all I can think of for now? dang man i think you basically covered it all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gofast5 Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Yup Fastrthnu pretty much covered it. -2 swingarms are a must. Good shocks. Id recommend a CMF aluminum airbox. Its bigger then stock and takes 2 34mm pod filters and changes your intake length which is supposed to work pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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