LTR-ERICK Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Well a few on here may know that my Banshee is need of a rebuild. About 2 1/2 - 3 year's ago my dad was riding the shee around on a track and all the sudden I heard a really loud snap sound. At first I thought the chain had snaped, but the chain was still good. At this time the shee was still running but I noticed that it was running on 1 cylinder. Well he rode it back to the trailer and we pulled the plugs and stuck a small screw driver into the cylinder's and the left side was not moving up and down. The new's soon got worse when we noticed the big crack in the case's. The shee has been sitting in the barn ever since. We never tore the motor down to see what happened, because I just have not had the money to dive into this project. What do you all think happened here? Right know I'm trying to get a estimate and alittle advice on the best way to go about the rebuild here before I get started. I know I need a set of case's, I do not belive they can be welded because the crack is right where half's mate together. What's your take on this could they be welded? Does it sound like the crank can be rebuild? Or do I need a new crank? Would I be better of with a stock crank balanced and welded or a hot rod's? Which would be more reliable? If it can be rebuild who is the best person to send the crank to for the rebuild? These are just the main question's I have at this moment. I'm sure I will have alot more once the tear down begin's. This is going to be the first motor I've rebuilt so any tip's you all would have would be greatly apreciated. Also. I really don't want to go back to a stock motor during this rebuild. What would be the best mod's for a good all around, and reliable build. Race gas is not a problem for this build either as I use it in my LTR and will have it on hand. I'm wanting to stick to a stock stroke build. I know this is a loaded question, but I'm not to knowledgeable when it comes to 2 stroke's. Thank's, Erick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 A couple of guys on here have threads with step by step instruction,do a search they walk you through the whole thing Ellison 445 on this site has a ton of cases,stock cranks,trannys,jugs I would tear it down and post up pics of the carnage so we can assist you Plan on spending some money bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Loud snap, running on 1 cylinder, broken cases, only one piston going up and down. I am going to guess the rod is broke. You can buy a new hot rods crank for what it would cost you to rebuid your stock crank. Rebuilding them really isnt pratical. If you go with a new crank I would go with a 4 mill stroker. It drops right in and only cost 35 bucks more than a stock crank. $400 for a stock stroke hot rods crank from FAST or $435 for the stroker. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.as...t=ENGINE%20MODS I would buy a good used crank if your wanting to stay with the stock stroke. It would save you some money too. You will probaly also need a bore, hone, and pistons. That will run you about 300 or so from fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baddsheee Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 You can start by seeing how much cash you have. lol. Get a Clymer's manual. Drain the coolant and pull the head. Should be able to tell by that, maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LTR-ERICK Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Loud snap, running on 1 cylinder, broken cases, only one piston going up and down. I am going to guess the rod is broke. You can buy a new hot rods crank for what it would cost you to rebuid your stock crank. Rebuilding them really isnt pratical. If you go with a new crank I would go with a 4 mill stroker. It drops right in and only cost 35 bucks more than a stock crank. $400 for a stock stroke hot rods crank from FAST or $435 for the stroker. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.as...t=ENGINE%20MODS I would buy a good used crank if your wanting to stay with the stock stroke. It would save you some money too. You will probaly also need a bore, hone, and pistons. That will run you about 300 or so from fast. Thank's, good to know it's not worth rebuilding the stock crank. I have been doing alittle reading on the 4 mill stroker, I seem's you need porting to get the most out of it correct? What would a ball park figured be on a 4 mill build to get the best possible power out of it? If it's not to much more then a stock stroke build then I think that's the best route for me. I'm just trying to get a few ball park figure's together here. At the moment I'm still finishing up my LTR, But I'm going to try and dig into this hopefully in the next month or two. Atleast get the bottom end built, then I will figure out the top end. But I might take the head off here this weekend and take a look, it's been bothering me for awhile not knowing what's wrong LOL. I will post up some picks of the damage if I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 I seem's you need porting to get the most out of it correct? What would a ball park figured be on a 4 mill build to get the best possible power out of it? Yes that is true a port job maximizes power. The same is true for a stock stroke crank. Here is how I look at it. You need a new crank. It isnt like your putting off doing a port job to pay for the crank. Your banshee isnt in running condition. If your going to replace it with a new one A stock stroke crank is going to run you $400 A 4 mill long rod crank is going to run $435 plus a spacer plate or cut domes in a cool head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LTR-ERICK Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Yes that is true a port job maximizes power. The same is true for a stock stroke crank. Here is how I look at it. You need a new crank. It isnt like your putting off doing a port job to pay for the crank. Your banshee isnt in running condition. If your going to replace it with a new one A stock stroke crank is going to run you $400 A 4 mill long rod crank is going to run $435 plus a spacer plate or cut domes in a cool head. The stroker is sounding pretty good right about know, But I just want to get this stright, The port job is not a must have item for it to run, and could possibley wait correct? What does a good all around port job cost for the shee? I know a good 4 stroke port job cost's about $500.00 is it about the same? What builder/s would you recomend for port work? Thank's Erick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 The stroker is sounding pretty good right about know, But I just want to get this stright, The port job is not a must have item for it to run, and could possibley wait correct? What does a good all around port job cost for the shee? I know a good 4 stroke port job cost's about $500.00 is it about the same? What builder/s would you recomend for port work? Thank's Erick It will run fine with out a port job. It wont just be running at its full potential. The same can be said for a stock stroke crank. Most people tell you to do a port job over doing just a 4 mill crank with no port job. A ported stock stroke banshee will be faster than a 4 mill non ported banshee. Since you have to buy a crank I would do the 4 mill. A good port job really wakes the banshee up. Once you port your cylinders for a stock stroke crank they usually cannont be reported for the 4 mill. The port heighs will be to high, so if your even condsidering doing a 4 mill now is the time to do it, Unless you want to pay for a nother port job later on down the road, and buy a new pair of cylinders. There are lots of good builders to do the port work. When they opean up the ports it changes how the motor behaves. It is like putting a cam shaft in 4 stroke. FAST HJR Wild Card Racing Are a few builders on here. Some more exotic builders are A&S K&T Red Line Racing josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LTR-ERICK Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 It will run fine with out a port job. It wont just be running at its full potential. The same can be said for a stock stroke crank. Most people tell you to do a port job over doing just a 4 mill crank with no port job. A ported stock stroke banshee will be faster than a 4 mill non ported banshee. Since you have to buy a crank I would do the 4 mill. A good port job really wakes the banshee up. Once you port your cylinders for a stock stroke crank they usually cannont be reported for the 4 mill. The port heighs will be to high, so if your even condsidering doing a 4 mill now is the time to do it, Unless you want to pay for a nother port job later on down the road, and buy a new pair of cylinders. There are lots of good builders to do the port work. When they opean up the ports it changes how the motor behaves. It is like putting a cam shaft in 4 stroke. FAST HJR Wild Card Racing Are a few builders on here. Some more exotic builders are A&S K&T Red Line Racing josh Thank you, that's what i need to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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