hercalmighty Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Thank You!!!!!! :biggrin: Yeah sorry for not explaining the right way. And thank you Stroker for helping me out here. Yeah I need to build one myself and the big thing was finding the right guage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nameehsnab Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Awsome write up! I was trying to build one myself using the old write up. I never thaught about using a tire guage like that. Very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DallasGDub Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 How much shipped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Great write up Doc. I was looking through this to see where you removed the check ball in the air pressure gauge....very nice write up indeed. IMO...this leak down is more important than the initial compression test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docjcwatson Posted March 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 How much shipped? You're not getting it. It cost less than $30 to make. Thanks for the compliments fellas. I owe this to the BHQ. I learned how to build this from the Chat on this website. Just goes to show how much some people can learn from this website. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DallasGDub Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 I will break down and make it. I will need it b/c I am almost done with my build. Great write up! I like being able to know exactly where I need to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onesickcrewcab Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Great write up Doc. The only thing different on my gauge is that the pressure starts reading at zero. If someone is going to make one it would be in your best interest to get a gauge that starts at zero, and shows iincriments of one. That way if it leaks 2 PSI that gauge shows just a 2 PSI leak. Where as the gauge Justin used starts reading at 5 PSI. The procedure is, your motor should hold 6 PSI for 6 minutes. They say 1 PSI per minute leak is acceptable. My motors have never leaked more than 2 PSI in 6 minutes. Just my two cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onesickcrewcab Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Also another note. If you are leakdown testing a motor that has been run and has oil in the exhaust port, it would be in your best interest to take a rag with some alcohol or carb cleaner on the end and wipe out the exhaust port. If you don't the plugs will tend to want to slip out under pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onesickcrewcab Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 Here is a pic of the pressure gauge i used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrgreene Posted March 22, 2009 Report Share Posted March 22, 2009 Here is a pic of the pressure gauge i used. hi, im new to bhq and banshee's, bought mine bought a year ago and im still trying to wrap my mind around the twin cylinders.I read this thread and it got me puzzled!i didnt know the two cylinders were actually connected,the gauge in one cylinder and the inflater in the opposite?is it just crankcase leaking that is being tested? sry for sounding dumb,just dont understand how the pressure flows to both cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onesickcrewcab Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 It flows through the center crank bearings. They are not sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1998BansheeHD Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 how do you do a leakdown test if you have a 2-1 intake on it... you show you need two caps... one with the tire gauge and one with the vavle stem?? can you message me if you have help me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 You have two options. Put the fill fitting AND the pressure gauge fitting on the same intake plug, or...substitute one of the exhaust plugs for a pressure plug or the fill plug. Seems to me a single cylinder leak down would have the fill/pressure on a single intake plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docjcwatson Posted March 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Yep. Thanks Dave. What you should do is, make a PVC pipe end with the cap in your correct size. Put the cap and pipe together. Then drill the holes. One on each side of the pipe. So now instead of having 1 gauge or 1 valve stem, coming out of the top. You will have 1 valve stem coming out of the right side of the pipe, and 1 gauge coming out of the other side of the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 (edited) so this is safe to do with any style crank. i just put in a hot rods 4 mil crank and was thinking about trying this out before finishing everything up. it looks like a simple yet successful leak down tester. and 1 lb / minute loss is the tolerable # right? Edited March 26, 2009 by MILO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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