vulvafan537240 Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 I hear ya, I started posting 3 months ago but I used to check this site out. Was a PS guy before but never really liked it much, this seems much better. I am just worried about people like this giving out advice on dome cc's and jetting and he cant even sync a set of carbs or take advice for that matter everyone usually calls him out when he gives advise to anyone else. its not like we're all a bunch of idiots who dont know anything. alot of guys on here know more about shees than the japs that engineered them. blaster2006 is just an exception. im not trying to call him out or anything, but hes done this kinda thing before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 everyone usually calls him out when he gives advise to anyone else. its not like we're all a bunch of idiots who dont know anything. alot of guys on here know more about shees than the japs that engineered them. blaster2006 is just an exception. im not trying to call him out or anything, but hes done this kinda thing before. x2, there is usually someone to keep him in check if he gives bad advice, but he is learning some. i think more particularly, jetting is where noone wants his replies as of yet, because bad advice there can become overlooked long just long enough for someone to blow a topend, but hey, we all started somewhere. i know what it's like to be sure of something prematurely. blaster2006, i'm sorry if the statement offends, but i'm gonna give your answer strait forward without opinions, advice, or bs you don't need a tool to get it close, just to get it dead on. back the idle screws off on the tors tops, untill they stop, but don't force, because of the plastic on the inside. push the throttle a couple of times and each side should thump when they hit bottom. you can put your finger under one slide at a time to make sure the other side thumps. if no thump, adjust the cable untill it does via the adjuster where the cable goes into the tors box. pull back on the cable sleve as you adjust the nut, as it is splined where it seats. now, you can sync the cables, so that the slides raise simotaneously, by the cable adjusters. there are tiny glass windows on the right front of the slide barrels, which show a little dot in the slides @ wot. this not only shows your syncing as they should show up simotaneously, but lets you know the slides are in right. if your slides are no longer black, the dots will be harder to see. also, spraying the windows with wd-40 will make them easier to see through. once you have those synced, move on to the idle screws. with your finger on one slide, turn the idle screw in untill you just feel it move, then add 2 turns. repeat on the other side. Now, you should be synced visually, and can fine tune from there, remembering to adjust both carbs together :thumbsup: now i will give advise- read this several times, and even have it displayed while you sync, so you can run back if you are in doubt of what you are diong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlasterKX Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 ^^^ very well put bro thats almost straight outa the book shit right there.lol good luck blaster it just takes time man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 My post yesterday assumed you didn't have TORS. My bad. Follow akheathons procedure. You need to realize that Just becuase your slides move simultaneously does not mean they are in synch. You need to get them in synch at idle AND make sure they move simultaneously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05.Banshee.SE Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 Seriously...ditch the TORS man... It's going to make your life SO much easier... The benefits of removing it greatly, greatly outweigh it's itended purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RollinRhino Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 When I first got my Shee I thought I was cool having a bad ride and all. The fact was when I went to my favorite riding spots people laughed and called me names because it had the TORS on it and none of the wimmin would even talk to me. After I removed it I get invited to all the boss parties and wimmin talk to me now and I don't get sand kicked in my face by the four stroke crowd anymore either. Friends don't let friends use TORS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blaster2006 Posted February 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 (edited) thanks alot AK heathen, this is what i was asking for.. i just did not understand a few parts ( sorry), if you could maybe briefly re explain what you mean.. "back the idle screws off on the tors tops, untill they stop, but don't force" you mean i completely remove the big round silver screws on top of the tors ( the idle screws) i loosen those completely yeah? and "if no thump, adjust the cable untill it does via the adjuster where the cable goes into the tors box. pull back on the cable sleve as you adjust the nut, as it is splined where it seats." i still dont understand how that assembly works to adjust the throttle, so i remove the black cap part of the throttle cable which is on the tors... then how do i "adjust" the nut, and what do you mean by its "splined where it seats" EDIT: okay just got back, i pulled the carbs from the intake, and looked at the slides from that view, the carb with the lower slide, the slide is almost 100% shut from the intake side(maybe there is like a 0.000001cm gap, but ddnt see any), and the one with the higher slide, from the intake side there is a small gap, meaning the slide is raised slightly from the intake side of the carb and as i said they both lift up together when i give it throttle, so its just the cable adjustment i guess? i removed the black caps and then i saw the metal part with the cable inside it and i see like 2 nuts and like a 3rd one but i think the third one does not move. how do i play with those, which of the 3 do i move? thanks.. Edited February 25, 2009 by blaster2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragbanshee Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 When I first got my Shee I thought I was cool having a bad ride and all. The fact was when I went to my favorite riding spots people laughed and called me names because it had the TORS on it and none of the wimmin would even talk to me. After I removed it I get invited to all the boss parties and wimmin talk to me now and I don't get sand kicked in my face by the four stroke crowd anymore either. Friends don't let friends use TORS! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blaster2006 Posted February 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: bleh.. i was considering it... ill see.. its $65 plus shipping international so thats $100 about out of my wallet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayzx10r Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 (edited) Maybe a definition is in order.... Both carb slides opening at the same rate/speed/time is NOT synchronization. Making both carbs flow the same rate at a given throttle position...that IS syncronization...or "in sync." (not the really cool band) That means they need to be open the same amount...equally. Download the manual here: http://rapidshare.com/files/47949327/Banshee.pdf//url Maybe you can teach your mechanic something.... BTW: The TORS elimination kit is worth the cost. Been to Bahrain. Nice weather :cool: , cops with UZI's, license plates that denote status, and Gold Street was pretty cool. Wish I could get my hands on more of that perfume oil!! Edited February 25, 2009 by jayzx750 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blaster2006 Posted February 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 okay.. this is what my mechanic and i did.. like i said, my slides raise at the same time with throttle, just by default one slide is raised higher than the other. we pulled the throttle cable black caps on the TORS, and he played with the bolts... he told me there is no way to make sure that both the slides are by default exactly the same height.. but he made it close...but i measued it with my thumb... the small opening gap when the carbs are on idle, and i couldnt see a difference this time with my eye as i could see before.. so we adjusted it now but not 100% but its better now, and as for both slides moving up together we played abit more with the idle screw ( big brass one on top of TORS) and got it as close as it can get.. so they now lift up at exact same time, the bike idles fine, and the slides when left alone both bottom out completely about the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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