makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Well I got a Banshee in the shop that's drawing through one of the seals...I 'm about to split the cases and replace the culprits and am wondering if there's anything I need to keep an eye out for? I have a manual but manuals don't always tell you to keep your thumb on such and such spring or it will fly across the workshop never to be see again. Also, should this require any special tools? Thanks for any heads ups! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swrbansheeboy Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 if you have a manual then it should be pretty self explanitory, just dont pry on them with anything... pull all the bolts from the top and bottom and use a rubber mallet to brake them apart, there are a couple spots on the front and rear that are safe to whack on that are pretty evident if you take a couple seconds to look at where they mate together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider1026 Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 maybe its a good time to get those cases powdercoated while you have it apart.. if so send me a pm and i can get you fixed up.. its also a good time to maybe have your crank trued and wleded while you have the bottom end apart.. and its also a good time to maybe..... LOL, isnt that the way it happens guys?? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 It's not my quad and the owner just wants it fixed enough to sell...he's got a buyer waiting for it. Alright, well I'll be beating the thing apart tomorrow or sunday...wish me luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolman Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 The right fly wheel puller do not use a gear puller it will ruin the fly wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 It's not my quad and the owner just wants it fixed enough to sell...he's got a buyer waiting for it. Alright, well I'll be beating the thing apart tomorrow or sunday...wish me luck. Be carefull beating the thing apart. I've seen a lot of cases broken back by the front sprocket from being smacked with a dead blow hammer. Just FYI. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabansheematt Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Well I got a Banshee in the shop that's drawing through one of the seals...I 'm about to split the cases and replace the culprits and am wondering if there's anything I need to keep an eye out for? I have a manual but manuals don't always tell you to keep your thumb on such and such spring or it will fly across the workshop never to be see again. Also, should this require any special tools? Thanks for any heads ups! If all you need to do is change the seals. You can split the cases without taking the top end apart. Leave the Head, cylinders, and pistons. All you need to do is pull the stator, clutch cover ect. Saves alot of time and gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 The right fly wheel puller do not use a gear puller it will ruin the fly wheel. Damn...most machines I mess with have threaded flywheels....all you have to do is run a bolt through them and they pop off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 If all you need to do is change the seals. You can split the cases without taking the top end apart. Leave the Head, cylinders, and pistons. All you need to do is pull the stator, clutch cover ect. Saves alot of time and gaskets. Lifting the crank out far enough to get the new seals in place isn't an issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Lifting the crank out far enough to get the new seals in place isn't an issue? Shouldn't be. Doesn't take much clearance. Probably splitting the case 4 or 5mm would be plenty. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Shouldn't be. Doesn't take much clearance. Probably splitting the case 4 or 5mm would be plenty. SP So you're not even talking about fully separating the halves? I guess I could investigate that as a possibility but I would be concerned with gasket damage leading to leaks. I mean if that's an acceptable means to go about it then awesome, I'll do it, but this is a paid job so I wouldn't want it leaving my shop spilling oil. Thanks so much for the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 So you're not even talking about fully separating the halves? I guess I could investigate that as a possibility but I would be concerned with gasket damage leading to leaks. I mean if that's an acceptable means to go about it then awesome, I'll do it, but this is a paid job so I wouldn't want it leaving my shop spilling oil. Thanks so much for the advice! There is no gasket. Just a sealant between the case halves. Yamabond is what I've always used but I don't think they make it anymore. There are several alternatives and it has been discussed on here several times. Need to make sure both halves are nice and clean and that maybe hard to do with a small gap between the halves and you can't get to the divider between the crankcase and the tranny. If you can get the seals out and back in without breaking the seal between the upper and lower halves, I would go that route. If I had to break the seal to replace them then I would split the cases completely just to make sure it was cleaned and sealed properly during reassembly. It is possible to split the cases without removing the topend. While it is also possible to split the cases slightly in the frame, I wouldn't take this route just because I wouldn't be comfortable with the reassembly process. JMO SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 There is no gasket. Just a sealant between the case halves. Yamabond is what I've always used but I don't think they make it anymore. There are several alternatives and it has been discussed on here several times. Need to make sure both halves are nice and clean and that maybe hard to do with a small gap between the halves and you can't get to the divider between the crankcase and the tranny. If you can get the seals out and back in without breaking the seal between the upper and lower halves, I would go that route. If I had to break the seal to replace them then I would split the cases completely just to make sure it was cleaned and sealed properly during reassembly. It is possible to split the cases without removing the topend. While it is also possible to split the cases slightly in the frame, I wouldn't take this route just because I wouldn't be comfortable with the reassembly process. JMO SP Well it's too late to try and replace the seals with the engine in the frame...I'd have to put the engine back in the frame first haha. I'll just fully separate the cases and make sure everything is clean and sealed properly. I'm a pretty lazy guy, but not in the way that I try to find shortcuts that compromise the end result. I'm always looking for the fastest way to get a job done CORRECTLY...I kind of take pride in the bikes that roll out of my shop. I don't want this one coming back in a few weeks because it's leaking puddles. Not disassembling the top end is a bonus, though...I hate taking something apart that's working fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Well it's too late to try and replace the seals with the engine in the frame...I'd have to put the engine back in the frame first haha. I'll just fully separate the cases and make sure everything is clean and sealed properly. I'm a pretty lazy guy, but not in the way that I try to find shortcuts that compromise the end result. I'm always looking for the fastest way to get a job done CORRECTLY...I kind of take pride in the bikes that roll out of my shop. I don't want this one coming back in a few weeks because it's leaking puddles. Not disassembling the top end is a bonus, though...I hate taking something apart that's working fine. Flip the thing upside down and remove the lower case half. Everything should be accessible from there. You will need to pull the flywheel and the clutch basket. The flywheel (with the correct puller) to get to the bolts that hold the stator plate on because they are attached to the upper and lower case. The basket because there is a clip behind it that is attached to both as well. Piece of cake. I wouldn't want to try it in the frame either. If you don't get it sealed well, oil puddles would be the least of your worries! An air leak in the crankcase would then require the topend to come apart! Good Luck SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Is there any other way to pull the flywheel? I don't have the puller, I can't get one for another week, and I'm not sure my guy is willing to front the $50 my local Yamaha joint wants to charge to pull it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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