sleeper06 Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 I had one that was stripped out once I carefully tapped the three holes in the flywheel to 3/8-16pitch and used an automotive steering wheel puller,worked fine.Or buy one off one of the site sponcers for $15 and have it forever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Is there any other way to pull the flywheel? I don't have the puller, I can't get one for another week, and I'm not sure my guy is willing to front the $50 my local Yamaha joint wants to charge to pull it. Holy Shit Batman! $50 to pull the flywheel! That's ridiculous. Biggest reason why I wouldn't spit on my local dealer if they were on fire! Really, the puller is the only safe way. A 3 jaw gear puller may bend the flywheel or brake the magnets. You can get one off ebay for like $12 bucks or so. Do you have any local shops besides dealers? Lots of places carry them and they are not expensive. I'd loan yuo mine if you were close. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Holy Shit Batman! $50 to pull the flywheel! That's ridiculous. Biggest reason why I wouldn't spit on my local dealer if they were on fire! Really, the puller is the only safe way. A 3 jaw gear puller may bend the flywheel or brake the magnets. You can get one off ebay for like $12 bucks or so. Do you have any local shops besides dealers? Lots of places carry them and they are not expensive. I'd loan yuo mine if you were close. SP I'm the local shop besides the dealer haha. I promised this motor to be done early next week...still have retuning and cleaning. I've been sick off my ass for the last week, though, so I'm trying to get her done as quickly as I can. If I have another banshee come in I'll be snagging the little puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 I had one that was stripped out once I carefully tapped the three holes in the flywheel to 3/8-16pitch and used an automotive steering wheel puller,worked fine.Or buy one off one of the site sponcers for $15 and have it forever Holy crap how much oomph did you have to put into the puller to get the damn thing loose? I'm afraid I'm going to break the puller bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 I said to hell with it...tried to tap and pull the thing but it wasn't budging. Took it to the dealer and had them break the fly and the clutch basket. They only charged me a quarter hour, though...it was supposed to be $50 because they have a 1/2 hour minimum fee (a reason I get a lot of business is I have no minimum...if I only work 5 minutes I charge for 5 minutes)...but the guy who did the work told them to only charge me a quarter since he was only there dealing with it 10 minutes or so...that was decent of him. $20 was a lot better than $50. Anyway...now I can get on with it and should have the thing back together later tonight. Oh and man was it interesting when I pulled the clutch cover off to find that half of the case about a quarter inch deep in aluminum chunks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 well bud, that's not good. what do you think it came from?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 well bud, that's not good. what do you think it came from?? ...came from a friction disc expanding a little beyond it's limits lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 Got her apart, swapped the seals, cleaned the surfaces, squeezed out some high temp silicone sealant, squished it all back together. I'll have her wrapped up, aside waiting for a new clutch pack, tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 awesome...put her back together and she won't start unless primed (have to squirt fuel into the intake tract or cylinders). Then she just runs long enough to burn the fuel off...so she's not getting fuel from the carbs. Also, lots of white smoke...which is to be expected since I just tore the thing down and put it back together but I just hate smoke. Oh and is there a reason why the two little connectors for the throttle bodies, on the wiring harness side, would have jumpers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swrbansheeboy Posted February 23, 2009 Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 (edited) my guess would be that somebody did a diy tors bypass. not to be a dick makenzie but if you dont own/want to spend the cash on a proper flywheel puller then you have no buisiness working on other peoples bikes. i do all the builds for mine and my friends bikes and i own all the tools (flywheel puller,leakdown tester,clutch holder, so on-so forth) needed to do the job right. i'm not a master mechanic and i'm sure not trying to make a buck but i own all the tools to get it done right. if your actualy doing work for people and turning a profit then i find it hard to believe you cant pony up the $25 for a correct flywheel puller. to top it off you said you sealed those cases with "high temp silicone" !?!? cmon dude, you do know about threebond dont you? it's like $10 a tube and does like 10 motors... i may have you pegged all wrong and maybe your on here trying to learn how to do it right but if your not willing to buy the right tools (after several people told you not to try and do it the wrong way but you did anyway) or use the correct sealant (theres a reason yamaha didn't use rtv from the factory) you just come off as a hack... the whole reason all these guys get on here to answer your questions is to give you the knowledge you need to not be a hack, there here to help you be a competent engine builder so when you blatantly go against the advice everyone has given you then you just wind up looking like a hillbilly.... buy a proper flywheel removal tool and buy some threebond 1104 before you work on any more banshee engines, actualy any atv engines for that matter... and you wonder why your customers engine wont run right... Edited February 23, 2009 by swrbansheeboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted February 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 my guess would be that somebody did a diy tors bypass. not to be a dick makenzie but if you dont own/want to spend the cash on a proper flywheel puller then you have no buisiness working on other peoples bikes. i do all the builds for mine and my friends bikes and i own all the tools (flywheel puller,leakdown tester,clutch holder, so on-so forth) needed to do the job right. i'm not a master mechanic and i'm sure not trying to make a buck but i own all the tools to get it done right. if your actualy doing work for people and turning a profit then i find it hard to believe you cant pony up the $25 for a correct flywheel puller. to top it off you said you sealed those cases with "high temp silicone" !?!? cmon dude, you do know about threebond dont you? it's like $10 a tube and does like 10 motors... i may have you pegged all wrong and maybe your on here trying to learn how to do it right but if your not willing to buy the right tools (after several people told you not to try and do it the wrong way but you did anyway) or use the correct sealant (theres a reason yamaha didn't use rtv from the factory) you just come off as a hack... the whole reason all these guys get on here to answer your questions is to give you the knowledge you need to not be a hack, there here to help you be a competent engine builder so when you blatantly go against the advice everyone has given you then you just wind up looking like a hillbilly.... buy a proper flywheel removal tool and buy some threebond 1104 before you work on any more banshee engines, actualy any atv engines for that matter... and you wonder why your customers engine wont run right... It takes a lot more to offend me than "pretty words" :happy: I charge $35/hr to do work and will break it down by the minute if I have to. I can do that, where large shops can't, because I keep my overhead low. I keep my overhead low by not going out and buying every tool I "may" need. Rebuilding Banshee engines isn't what I advertise I that I do...I happily do top ends because I am fully set up to do that, but I don't typically get a lot of full rebuilds. In fact, the only ATV work I advertise is standard maintenance. I actually said yes to this because I made the foolish assumption that the YFZ and RD 350's had more in common. With the RD you replace the seals without splitting the case. You learn something new everyday. No, when it comes to engine overhauls, I much prefer the old school 4-stroke street engines that typically show themselves. As far as the sealer thing...if it doesn't hold it won't be much to go in and change it. The Yamaha joint was real nice charging me only 1/4 hour to pull the flywheel, but when I called back asking about "yamabond" they had no idea what I was talking about. Maybe I got an idiot. Don't know. I was in somewhat of a rush so I said to hell with it and reassembled anyway. I've used the RTV products to seal cases before and have never had one come back...of course they weren't smoker cases, but I don't expect any issues. The surfaces were nice and clean, no scoring, and no left over sealer...and the sealer that was there, by the way, was nothing different than cured black RTV. For everyone's information, the motor seems to be running just fine. Passed leak down and good compression. Seems the smoke was burning off all the WD40/Naptha from the intake tract and burning residual oil from the cylinder and exhaust. The no-start thing was because my throttle body slides were in the wrong carbs and because the carbs were so filthy, along with the cable being buggered, that the slides weren't zero'ing out. I covered all this in another thread. Started a new one to keep from dragging this one out. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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