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put lock up on, now bike is hard to shift


eagle

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By design, the lockup system does not balance very well so at higher rpm, the pressure plate can disengage rather awkward or cocked to one side and this can cause dragging of the clutch system. You need good clutch disengagement to get a transmission to shift right. I think you will find most people with a lock up use an override trans and don't mess with this clutch much. Not ideal for for anything but drag racing though.

 

You may be experiencing a real awkward release of the pressure plate that is jamming up. I would recommend rotating the thing 180* and try it to see if anything changes. The lock up is harder to pull than stock. No way around that. It puts more force on the pressure plate so the faster you go, the more it clamps. I am not a fan of the lock up for casual riding personally.

 

 

 

 

 

Brandon

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I think you will find most people with a lock up use an override trans and don't mess with this clutch much. Not ideal for for anything but drag racing though.

 

thats not quite true. duneable overrides have come a long way. i upshift and downshift mine all the time going fast and slow with no clutch. theres no reason a dune bike or a trail bike couldnt benefit from a duneable.

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thats not quite true. duneable overrides have come a long way. i upshift and downshift mine all the time going fast and slow with no clutch. theres no reason a dune bike or a trail bike couldnt benefit from a duneable.

 

 

 

I come from close course racing background and if I cannot use my clutch and slip it in every corner, I am screwed. motocross, supercorss, TT, hare scramble, woods, etc, they will benefit from a properly functioning clutch system. The reason I say overrides are not "ideal" for anything by drags is just that most us a lock up with them so I guess I said that wrong. The override really does not create any problem at all, it is the clutch that has always given me headaches in a long race. Even in tight trails on a high tune cub, you really need that clutch to help you stay in the power. I know plenty of guys that don't use a clutch but most experienced closed course racers will use the hell out of them. Guess it depends on your ride style. Hope that makes more sense.

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I come from close course racing background and if I cannot use my clutch and slip it in every corner, I am screwed. motocross, supercorss, TT, hare scramble, woods, etc, they will benefit from a properly functioning clutch system. The reason I say overrides are not "ideal" for anything by drags is just that most us a lock up with them so I guess I said that wrong. The override really does not create any problem at all, it is the clutch that has always given me headaches in a long race. Even in tight trails on a high tune cub, you really need that clutch to help you stay in the power. I know plenty of guys that don't use a clutch but most experienced closed course racers will use the hell out of them. Guess it depends on your ride style. Hope that makes more sense.

 

didnt anyone tell you that cubs arent trail friendly?? :biggrin:

 

yea that makes more sense. in a racing application, im not sure id want one. if i was duning, then for sure id like to have one. i guess it would just depend on peoples riding style and engine setup.

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What really instigated our clutch R&D a while back was a nice MX bike we setup as a 7mm stock cylinder. a 100HP bike with a monster torque curve. I think we ended up detuning it though to hook up better and put more power on the bottom. Speedracer has one of our 4mm setups and is really happy with our broad, usable torque curve. We have had some success with the Cheetahs as well but we did end up modding a cub motor by cutting the bottom of the cylinder off and modding the head so we could hit our timing marks and make the bike more acceptable for closed course.

 

I will agree, a standard stroker cub on an MX course can be down right dangerous! Either need that power valve or more acceptable port timing to make them mind a little better.

 

 

 

 

B

Edited by blowit
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Def don't have a mechanical issue. Lockup cover, new cable, and worked fine without the lockup. Common sense says because of the centrifugal force applied at high rpms, it would be hard to pull the lever during shifts. The tool that sold him the kit said it should shift just like a stocker. :confused:

 

As soon as the rpms drop, the clutch cable pulls just fine. He was just told it should work so was not sure if there is some adjustment to get the lever to pull nice for high rpm shifts.

 

 

The bike is a 535 cheetah. Thanks guys

"Centrifugal force" is a false force, it does not really exist. It does not act on the body in motion, it only acts on the source of centripetal force, and it is equal in magnitude and opposite in direction to the centripetal force.

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"Centrifugal force" is a false force, it does not really exist. It does not act on the body in motion, it only acts on the source of centripetal force, and it is equal in magnitude and opposite in direction to the centripetal force.

 

i didnt understand a thing you just said.. sounded like you had peanut butter on the roof of your mouth.. :biggrin:

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"Centrifugal force" is a false force, it does not really exist. It does not act on the body in motion, it only acts on the source of centripetal force, and it is equal in magnitude and opposite in direction to the centripetal force.

 

 

 

 

OK, the pseudo force commonly called centrifugal force. An inertial force associated with rotation of a given mass.

 

 

 

 

Brandon

Edited by blowit
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