MILO Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 i've done a search and found a bunch of stuff but not exactly how a stroker works and what i'll need for one. i'm rebuilding my shee and planning on bore/hone, porting, +4 timing, and doing something with the crank. either getting the stocker trued & welded or just buying a hot rods crank or something. if i went with a 4 mil over a stock set up crank, what else do i need to do? if i understand this stuff at all, a 4 mil gives 2 mil on top, 2 on the bottom. is that what trenching the case is all about and will i need differenent domes in my noss head? if i've read things right, some wiseco pistons used with the stroker make the crank a drop in and go job. it looks like the 4 mil isn't much more $$ than the stocker setup so am i on the right track here? i'd prefer to stick with pump gas too so will the 4 mil push me over that line? i already have the noss head, v3's, pc pipes, pro flow filter, elevation is about 1200ft and running pa summer temps - usually 70-90 or so. i'm leaning towards just getting a new crank cuz i'm sure the old one has plenty of wear & tear on the rods and bearings. this is on my '01 shee and the 2nd top end job since it was new. i already have the crank out and need to know where to go from here for another, a hot rods stocker or a 4 mil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2001Stroker Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 No trenching for a 4mil. All you need is, crank, stroker domes for your head, wiseco 795 pistons. Preferably get a port job to match. I don't think I'm leaving anything out. Anyone else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studroes Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 some strokers have different rod lengths which reguire different pistons. a hotrods crank comes with 115mm rods which require 795 series pistons to accomidate for the longrod where as a vito's stroker uses stoke 110mm rods which will use any standard banshee piston. performance wise in my opinion could go either way but i prefer the stoke rod crank just because you can get .100 over standard banshee pistons where as the 795 series only goes up to .080 over so basically you can get a little more cylinder life out of a stoke rod crank. you can use a spacer plate on the bottom of your cylinders but the best way is gonna be to get some special cut stroker domes. i would say 21-22cc domes will be safe to run pump gas. cylinders ported to match the 4mil and maybe a few small things along the way..pretty expensive build but very effective. good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 i prefer the stoke rod crank just because you can get .100 over standard banshee pistons where as the 795 series only goes up to .080 over so basically you can get a little more cylinder life out of a stoke rod crank. Yea you need those extra bores when your standard rod stroker crank eats piston skirts. By the way you can run blaster pistons with a 4 mill long rod crank to get your extra .100 bore. All you need is a set of blaster piston stroker domes. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 If you have the money I'd recommend the stroker setup hands down. They offer a wider power band than the stock stroke setup. The 4mil can be setup for pump gas and required no casework(trenching). There are several ways of going about a 4mil. Short rod with std banshee pistons or long rod with 795's. Either way you can run a spacer plate or stroker domes/rechambered head. I highly recommend the long rod crank with stroker domes and a nice port job to match. The spacer plates are prone to air leaks and move your ports up 2mm. The short rod cranks put too much side load on the piston skirts and are therefore less reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 thanks for all the info guys. and it was pretty much what i wanted to hear. it sounds like the 4 mil is the way to go. i actually called Kevin @Herr Jugs Racing today and talked about my options. i think after reading this stuff here, i'm going with the 4 mil long rod and 795 pistons. i'm going to have him do the bore and porting and get the right domes for the 4 mil. as far as the porting i ride mostly trails & some farming areas. most of the trails aren't real tight and there are plenty of open fields and stuff to rip on. there's lots of hillclimbing to be done also. so i'm probably going to go with his aggressive trail port. which if i understand correctly will give more low to mid range increases. so here's the overall plan, tell me if i'm missing something..... - full top end rebuild - aggressive trail port - hot rods 4 mil long rod crank w / 795's & stroker domes - + 4 timing - mod'd shift star & shift shaft - tors eliminator - clutch pancake bearing now with all of this, i have a hinson basket w / stock hub and pressure plate and a tusk clutch kit. it should hold up to this set up right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.J. Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 some 33PWK's would be nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
278 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 You dont absolutely need the bigger carbs but I'd recomend some Kehein PWK 33's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Kevin will be able to make the propper carb recomendation for your setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jinx44 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Long rod, 795 series pistons, and SPACER PLATE is the only way to go. We tried several setups when the 4mil craze first started 6-7 years ago. That setup made the most power, and had the best power curves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSand Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 thanks for all the info guys. and it was pretty much what i wanted to hear. it sounds like the 4 mil is the way to go. i actually called Kevin @Herr Jugs Racing today and talked about my options. i think after reading this stuff here, i'm going with the 4 mil long rod and 795 pistons. i'm going to have him do the bore and porting and get the right domes for the 4 mil. as far as the porting i ride mostly trails & some farming areas. most of the trails aren't real tight and there are plenty of open fields and stuff to rip on. there's lots of hillclimbing to be done also. so i'm probably going to go with his aggressive trail port. which if i understand correctly will give more low to mid range increases. so here's the overall plan, tell me if i'm missing something..... - full top end rebuild - aggressive trail port - hot rods 4 mil long rod crank w / 795's & stroker domes - + 4 timing - mod'd shift star & shift shaft - tors eliminator - clutch pancake bearing now with all of this, i have a hinson basket w / stock hub and pressure plate and a tusk clutch kit. it should hold up to this set up right? I am thinking of doing the same build, let us know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertdeweller Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 jets for all that extra power and airflow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 (edited) double checking the jetting will be the first thing after getting it running again. i seriously doubt i'll get into carbs yet too. i'm trying to get the shee rebuilt AND looking for a trackwhore bike so i don't have to take my new R1 to track days. so what i listed is pretty much the extent of things for the banshee. Edited February 13, 2009 by MILO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Long rod, 795 series pistons, and SPACER PLATE is the only way to go. We tried several setups when the 4mil craze first started 6-7 years ago. That setup made the most power, and had the best power curves. If you're just pulling the parts right out of the box and intalling them with no portwork then yes, the spacer will make more power. But, with porting the chambered head is capable of just as much power and better reliability. If it's going to be a trail motor then I'd never think about installing the spacer plate. Also the spacer plate puts the exhaust timing at @ 196 which is too much for many of the pipes on the market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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