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Waiting on a Shee


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Hey everyone im new,

Im waiting to fix my dirtbike [YZ85] from my crash and sell it then I get a Shee

I've already got 2-stroke and Yamaha in my blood [YZ125, TTR 125L, YZ85]

haha, I've owned a Polaris 300 something forgot, more of a laid back hunting quad

not my type. Just wondering what to look out for on a Shee when buying?

Any specific years that are worse than others? or anything. Heard they havent

changed much over the years so im leaning into getting a cheaper/older one so I can

play around with it and spend more money on it. Same rules apply to dirtbike 2-strokes?

Every round' 40 hours or so rebuild the engine?

Thanks SIM,

Edited by SheeInMind
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there is no way in hell you would rebuild top end or bottom end after 40 hours.

 

it only breaks in after 20 hours.

 

i know many people with 1980s bikes without EVER rebuilding their bottom ends. and only have done a new top end like once or twice maximum.

 

if i had to guess... rebuilding top end on average every 500 hours or so

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Hey everyone im new,

Im waiting to fix my dirtbike [YZ85] from my crash and sell it then I get a Shee

I've already got 2-stroke and Yamaha in my blood [YZ125, TTR 125L, YZ85]

haha, I've owned a Polaris 300 something forgot, more of a laid back hunting quad

not my type. Just wondering what to look out for on a Shee when buying?

Any specific years that are worse than others? or anything. Heard they havent

changed much over the years so im leaning into getting a cheaper/older one so I can

play around with it and spend more money on it. Same rules apply to dirtbike 2-strokes?

Every round' 40 hours or so rebuild the engine?

Thanks SIM,

The only thing that change on the Banshee over the years was:

 

87-89 J arm frames

89-present A arm frames

wiring changes from switching voltage to component / switching voltage to ground

gearing changes 13/42 (87), 13/40 (88), 14/41 (89-xx)

 

I think that other then this not much has changed. In buying anything used you should look at everything unless your intent is to rebuild the entire thing. Ask about the bore size. I would make it sound like I was looking for something with a big bore so the person selling it wouldn't be afraid to be honest about how big it really is. Standard bore size is 64mm. 0.010" is equal to 0.25mm and I wouldn't bore over 0.080" although I think they make pistons for 0.100" over. Bore is the life of your motor. Bigger isn't better. Check frame structure, bearings, overall conditions. Appearance is usually (not always) a sign of maintenance also.

 

40 hours on a rebuild? Wow, I spend that much each trip out! With proper maintenance, the right fuel, and good quality lubricants I think you could easily get 500 hours out of a top end, like the other guy said.

 

SP

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Welcome to the BHQ

 

Nothing wrong with the J-arm banshee, but I would rather have A-arms for availability. Check for bearings being shot, rear swing arm, carrier, steering and front hubs. Not forgetting the bushings in the A-arms, all these are replaceable and no big deal unless there is excessive play/slop. Then you know the thing has been ridden like this for a while and was not taken care of. How easily does it start???? All these things add up, good basics for talking them down, or moving on to the next banshee. The deals are out there, just take your time, when it comes. You may keep your eyes open on here, theres always one for sale here, and it may even be in your area. Good luck!

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The only thing that change on the Banshee over the years was:

 

87-89 J arm frames

89-present A arm frames

wiring changes from switching voltage to component / switching voltage to ground

gearing changes 13/42 (87), 13/40 (88), 14/41 (89-xx)

 

I think that other then this not much has changed. In buying anything used you should look at everything unless your intent is to rebuild the entire thing. Ask about the bore size. I would make it sound like I was looking for something with a big bore so the person selling it wouldn't be afraid to be honest about how big it really is. Standard bore size is 64mm. 0.010" is equal to 0.25mm and I wouldn't bore over 0.080" although I think they make pistons for 0.100" over. Bore is the life of your motor. Bigger isn't better. Check frame structure, bearings, overall conditions. Appearance is usually (not always) a sign of maintenance also.

 

40 hours on a rebuild? Wow, I spend that much each trip out! With proper maintenance, the right fuel, and good quality lubricants I think you could easily get 500 hours out of a top end, like the other guy said.

 

SP

 

87-90 was j arm , 91 - present a arm , just to let you know .

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there is no way in hell you would rebuild top end or bottom end after 40 hours.

 

it only breaks in after 20 hours.

 

i know many people with 1980s bikes without EVER rebuilding their bottom ends. and only have done a new top end like once or twice maximum.

 

if i had to guess... rebuilding top end on average every 500 hours or so

Yea... If you maintain it properly you might be able to get some serious riding in before the rebuild. Make sure your plugs are gapped correctly, carbs are in synch and clean. Might be forgetting something else but dont expect to hammer on it constantly without some negatives happening. Good luck, Hope ya get the Shee you want. They didn't change much either. I think 87-90 or so was the J Style...

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You've never owned a quad until you've owned a Banshee.

 

Haha, looks like im finally getting the real deal. Just wondering

how much $ you put into your banshee's, Base Price and upgrades

Im 14, and probably wont be putting as much money so soon into it

as you people will =P. Although my dad has a car shop of his own so I

can defiantly wrench on it and keep it in tip-top shape

Thanks SIM,

 

Edit: Can anyone also send me PM's with links to build-up's

of banshee's? Mucho appreciated!

Edited by SheeInMind
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my 97 i paid too much for it, i paid 1800, but it did have a lot of aftermarket parts on it. i spent a lot on it after. my 06 i paid 4000 for, and have a shitload more into it, here is a list of most of parts that i will start installing this week, i had to get everything powdercoated first.

 

 

PRM a-arm plate set, bottom frame plate, z swingarm plate, all the thickest size metal ones,

cascade gear slammer, ez push throttle, fender brackets, t6 exhaust clamps, bar clamp plain, coolant bottle bracket

toomey tr6 pipe kit with 2:1 filter and jet kit

motion pro thumb throttle kit

black gas tank vent valve

Lonestar Axcalibur 2+2 Axle

alba pro elite parking brake block off kit

hide a key

black renthal handlebars

eyeballs (lol)

pro aluminum pro-nerf bars black powdercoat. (might sell and just buy prm sidebars)

works AT series front shocks, quadstar rear shock all black

kenda klaw tires 20x11 rears 21x7 fronts

reverse offset front rims

cfm airbox

chariot timing plate

 

im sure there is more shit that i am forgetting.

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