Jump to content

stroker or port job?


nuc_welder

Recommended Posts

If your only doing one then a port job.

 

A port job will give you more power than no port job and a 4 mill crank.

 

Once you port your cylinders for the stock stroke you CANNOT have them reported for the 4 mill. So if your thinking of doing the 4 mill you should just save and do both.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once you port your cylinders for the stock stroke you CANNOT have them reported for the 4 mill. So if your thinking of doing the 4 mill you should just save and do both.

 

I would not say that is 100% accurate...keeping in mind one builder's dune port is another's drag port, etc.

 

But I would without a doubt talk to a builder who you're thinking about having port your cylinders for final say on that.

 

Porting before the stroker, but they're best done in pairs...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be careful with those ebay cylinders as they look really cut up on the intake side and are .090 over so could be prone to breaking in the intake sleeve area. Definetly porting would produce bigger gains.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I seen some cylinders on ebay that I'm thinking about buying. They have extra boost ports cut in them, but they are for stock stroke. I want to keep up with my friend he's got a stroker with stock cylinders.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Acces...A1%7C240%3A1318

 

If you want to smoke your friend buy my 4 mill Patriot drag ported (only at .060 over) and Hot Rod 4 mill crank that I have advertised in the classified section. PM me for package price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ebay cylinder have not many bore left on them, and the risk of failure on the intake side are high because of the kind of port job... This cylinders are probably not your best bet...

 

 

If you going with 4mill and ported, you probably need bigger carb (with pod and intake), cool head with cut dome, v-force or 2 stage carbon reed, and a good set of pipe.

 

An another possibility for you it's a stock stroke cub (358 or 392cc). If you going this way, get your stock crank pinned and welded. This set up need also the same thing (carb,pipe,reed). Your stock head is bolt-on on the 358 and have to be machined to fit larger bore in the 392 (i think).

 

Talk do a good builder like F.A.S.T. or HJR, : They know what they talk about! They are able to find the best setup for your kind of riding and with accordance with the amount of money you want to spend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...