Jump to content

10 mil crank


Recommended Posts

I've got a friend in colorado who ran one. He was not happy at all with the craftsmanship or support from vitos. Just keep in mind that you get what you pay for, and if its cheap there's a reason somewhere along the lines for how they were able to make it cheaper.

 

Get a hold of louie at twister or call crankworks and get a billet 10mil crank. I believe www.cascadeinnovations.net carries a billet 10mil crank with TZ and maxload bearings already on the crank.

 

- Jared

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got a friend in colorado who ran one. He was not happy at all with the craftsmanship or support from vitos. Just keep in mind that you get what you pay for, and if its cheap there's a reason somewhere along the lines for how they were able to make it cheaper.

 

Get a hold of louie at twister or call crankworks and get a billet 10mil crank. I believe www.cascadeinnovations.net carries a billet 10mil crank with TZ and maxload bearings already on the crank.

 

- Jared

I have never been happy with anything I had from Vito's. On top of that, they seem to come up with alot of gimmicky crap, which makes me think less of them.

 

Twister is who I would get one from if I wanted best part I could buy (I think Cascade offers some of their stuff). Otherwise Crankworks is ok as well, but the quality isn't the same as others, but it's good enough to get the job done. :geek:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have never been happy with anything I had from Vito's. On top of that, they seem to come up with alot of gimmicky crap, which makes me think less of them.

 

Twister is who I would get one from if I wanted best part I could buy (I think Cascade offers some of their stuff). Otherwise Crankworks is ok as well, but the quality isn't the same as others, but it's good enough to get the job done. :geek:

 

thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with the Vito's crank at all.

I will agree, just like Wiseco, their welds are SHITTY from the factory.

 

However, my buddy builds cranks with Vito's components. he gets blank webs, gets them punched and welds them inside and out and trues them.

 

We've had 7 and 10 mil cranks running in stock to cub to cheetah cylinders out here with out any crank related issues.

When it comes time to building these motors, a good weld and true is 100% critical.

 

If you think you're not going to have any issues simply because you're going to a billet crank...you're wrong. You're only going to have more expensive issues when one comes up. And it's going to cost you a LOT more money...period.

You can save 30 to 45% by getting a properly setup forged crank vs. billet...it'll be just fine.

 

Mark...

I understand you're buds with Louie and all that. But if you want to test out a properly welded and trued Vito's crank...just let me know.

 

I happen to have a Crankworks crank in my 10 mil. I got it used off ebay for about 200 bucks. It needed a bearing. I put a TZ on the PTO side. Since then....the crank has hundreds and hundreds of passes on it. For the first time in two years I split my motor.

Everything on it looks perfect...from the welds to the bearings to the rods.

 

Forged cranks are cheaper but they work just fine....when setup right.

 

banshee4201, if you want a forged crank that will hold up just fine and at a good price, just let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with the Vito's crank at all.

I will agree, just like Wiseco, their welds are SHITTY from the factory.

 

However, my buddy builds cranks with Vito's components. he gets blank webs, gets them punched and welds them inside and out and trues them.

 

We've had 7 and 10 mil cranks running in stock to cub to cheetah cylinders out here with out any crank related issues.

When it comes time to building these motors, a good weld and true is 100% critical.

 

If you think you're not going to have any issues simply because you're going to a billet crank...you're wrong. You're only going to have more expensive issues when one comes up. And it's going to cost you a LOT more money...period.

You can save 30 to 45% by getting a properly setup forged crank vs. billet...it'll be just fine.

 

Mark...

I understand you're buds with Louie and all that. But if you want to test out a properly welded and trued Vito's crank...just let me know.

 

I happen to have a Crankworks crank in my 10 mil. I got it used off ebay for about 200 bucks. It needed a bearing. I put a TZ on the PTO side. Since then....the crank has hundreds and hundreds of passes on it. For the first time in two years I split my motor.

Everything on it looks perfect...from the welds to the bearings to the rods.

 

Forged cranks are cheaper but they work just fine....when setup right.

 

banshee4201, if you want a forged crank that will hold up just fine and at a good price, just let me know.

 

 

I don't know if its true or not, but lynn at LC Performance told me that no one is really making the forged cranks any more. The ones that are out on the market are whats out there. But he said that the manufacturing cost of the billet ones vs the forged ones is pretty close to the same, so people are just going with the billet ones any more. Don't know if its true, just something I remember hearing from lynn last time I was out at his shop.

 

My friend down in colorado who had the vitos crank had a lower rod bearing go out and the welds were cracking on it when he pulled it. I don't know what kind of compression or timing he was running, but I know he ran klotz super at 28:1 on alky. He dropped in a twister crank with all the same setup as before (so he tells me) and didn't have any trouble with it.

 

I totally agree with you about the welds though. I re-weld any crank I get before I put it in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Somebody needs to tell Wiseco and Vitos there will no longer be forged cranks, as well as OEM Yamaha....

 

I can't see how the cost of pouring metal to a mold (very little waste) compared to maching a part out of a block (Lots of waste) can even compare in cost.

 

OEM TZ bearings, for example...are very hard to find. They have shot up in price...so everyone uses NTN and has the outer race machined for the crank clip.

 

Forged cranks have not gone up in price...I can't see that being true that no one is going to make or carry them any more....

 

Anyone can go can buy blanks or forged cranks anytime they choose...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Somebody needs to tell Wiseco and Vitos there will no longer be forged cranks, as well as OEM Yamaha....

 

I can't see how the cost of pouring metal to a mold (very little waste) compared to maching a part out of a block (Lots of waste) can even compare in cost.

 

OEM TZ bearings, for example...are very hard to find. They have shot up in price...so everyone uses NTN and has the outer race machined for the crank clip.

 

Forged cranks have not gone up in price...I can't see that being true that no one is going to make or carry them any more....

 

Anyone can go can buy blanks or forged cranks anytime they choose...

 

There are 2 componies that I know of in Taiwan that makes cranks for banshees, one of them makes both for wiseco and hotrods, the other one for vitos and some mix and match! Its all from Taiwan, I buy directly @ $180 a 7mm longrod.. All cast.. They do not look as neat, cause they come out the backdoor with the names and numbers removed. I just reweld them, these are reliable and I will not waste my money on a billet one which is expensive as hell.. Run the vitos, their all the same..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Precisely Tyler....

I was wondering how many actually knew that...

 

so who is making the actual parts and who is actually putting them together? when i bought my original 10mm forged crank from redline, cameron told me it would actually be a crankworks crank..

 

when i had it rebuilt due to a weld comin apart, i took it to GT performance, who said he would be sending it to crankworks..

 

so is crankworks responsible for putting all these cranks together and then sending them out all over the place or what?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I buy directly @ $180 a 7mm longrod.. All cast.. They do not look as neat, cause they come out the backdoor with the names and numbers removed. I just reweld them

So hook us up with a name and number. I'm all about that. I need a 10mil crank. If you can get them that cheap, I don't mind paying international shipping and rewelding it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Somebody needs to tell Wiseco and Vitos there will no longer be forged cranks, as well as OEM Yamaha....

 

I can't see how the cost of pouring metal to a mold (very little waste) compared to maching a part out of a block (Lots of waste) can even compare in cost.

 

OEM TZ bearings, for example...are very hard to find. They have shot up in price...so everyone uses NTN and has the outer race machined for the crank clip.

 

Forged cranks have not gone up in price...I can't see that being true that no one is going to make or carry them any more....

 

Anyone can go can buy blanks or forged cranks anytime they choose...

 

Was just something I heard lynn say...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...