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re-location


killshee

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i added a plug for the kill switch. i never soldered anything. i ONLY used heat shrink tube and electrical tape. i changed NO wiring. i only shortened wires and added the kill switch plug, which i just spliced in. the plug i used for the kill switch plug might have had a different color wire. big deal. its not like the banshee wiring harness is so complicated that someone cant figure it out. you still dont need an expensive crimper to do that..

 

 

i dont need to prove you wrong. you are wrong by saying that relocating is worthless and causes problems and that it can only be done correctly by using a 100 dollar crimp tool. i didnt put any words in your mouth. you made broad, blanket statements about things. i called you out on it. but since youre a certified GM tech i guess your know all about electrical systems trumps my tiny knowledge about the very intricate and complicated banshee wiring harness.

 

You have to be high as a kite to not notice that at the top of this page is an exact qoute I made from earlier in this topic when this all started and you freaked out. Its states:

 

SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Dont relocate it, its a pain in the ass. Just cut all the stuff out of the stock harness and tape it back up. I have done it on 3 bikes, and I hate doing it, and cant see a benefit to it."

 

SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Redoing the harness with waterproof metri pack connectors or the oem stuff from K&L supply is a pain. There is a $99 crimp tool you have to buy and you have to put the seals in the connection end piece to seal the connectors. Theres no way I would do it without doing it right so you can take everything off. All the underbody leds and my dc conversion use factory connectors and can be unhooked easily. Its a pain in the ass if you do it to look like a stock harness and keep everything waterproofed and clean."

 

LOCOGATO EXACT QUOTE "i dont need to prove you wrong. you are wrong by saying that relocating is worthless and causes problems and that it can only be done correctly by using a 100 dollar crimp tool. i didnt put any words in your mouth. you made broad, blanket statements about things."

 

So thats not putting words in my mouth. Because that is CLEARLY not what I said.

 

I dont know if you just dont get it or what. I am in no way saying its not possible to fix a harness, shorten a harness, or work on a harness unless you have the factory crimp tool. What I am saying, is it would be difficult to make it look exactly like stock, retain all the wire colors and keep it weatherproof without the tool. So like a hammer, I hope that gets driven into your head because I have said it at least 3 times now. You however insist I said something else even though its all here in text and is clearly not what I said. There have not been generalized blanket statements, and everything has been described in detail. You wanted issues I could see with doing it, I gave them to you. Everythings been explained, and there has ven been pictures of the stuff I use. This in no way should be a mystery or be able to be misconstrued by anyone with at least the mental capacity of a goldfish. So if you dont understand, I advise you to re-read the entire topic and get a good grip on whats going on, because clearly you dont get it right now.

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Absolutely, you can cut the wiring and solder it no problems, and it ends up being shorter. However, if you go to add lets say a stock quick disconnect connector to the coil wires from the harness. Then you will need to install a wiring end on at least the orange coil wire if you want to keep a continous color. It would be very difficult to do with standard crimpers. The wiring ends have at least 1-3 crimp tangs, plus a hoop that reatains the connector seal like the pic posted earlier. If you use the tool, you just put the connector end in the crimpers, put the seal on the wire and insert it in to the connectors and squeeze. Then you just slide the connector end on the wire into the factory quyick disconnect and your done.

 

When you do stuff like cut the tors off, you can keep the wiring connectors and leave some of the wire on the ends. You can then go through and solder the wire and put heat shrink onto the other wires if your adding things to your harness. The only downfall is the wiring will be a different color at the end than the wire your soldering to in most cases.

Why solder the wires. That's what crimp connects were made for. :blink:

 

Got this : "The heat shrink butt splice is an irradiated thermally stabilized heat shrinkable dual wall sleeving composed of an outer tube coated on the inner surface with a meltable polyamide adhesive.

 

Simply put: it's a piece of dual wall heat shrink with a crimp splice inside of it. You crimp the two pieces of wire together, and then heat the splice with a hot air gun so that the outer sleeve shrinks and the adhesive melts and flows to give a fully sealed water tight joint.

 

The butt splice is resistant to water, spray, oil, saltwater and most hazardous chemicals. "

 

 

from halfway down the page of this site...

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktub...imp-splices.htm

 

You don't have to be a rocket scientist to redo a wiring harness and you surely to god don't need to solder every cut wire or use a GM certified kit..haha....You guys are all fucked up... :cool: So to anyone interested in this simply get a box of crimp connectors with heat shrink on them, preferably 3M brand and do the damn thing..Will cost maybe $20 bucks from Wal-Mart for a cheap crimping tool and a box of crimps.

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Why solder the wires. That's what crimp connects were made for. :blink:

 

Got this : "The heat shrink butt splice is an irradiated thermally stabilized heat shrinkable dual wall sleeving composed of an outer tube coated on the inner surface with a meltable polyamide adhesive.

 

Simply put: it's a piece of dual wall heat shrink with a crimp splice inside of it. You crimp the two pieces of wire together, and then heat the splice with a hot air gun so that the outer sleeve shrinks and the adhesive melts and flows to give a fully sealed water tight joint.

 

The butt splice is resistant to water, spray, oil, saltwater and most hazardous chemicals. "

 

 

from halfway down the page of this site...

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktub...imp-splices.htm

 

You don't have to be a rocket scientist to redo a wiring harness and you surely to god don't need to solder every cut wire or use a GM certified kit..haha....You guys are all fucked up... :cool: So to anyone interested in this simply get a box of crimp connectors with heat shrink on them, preferably 3M brand and do the damn thing..Will cost maybe $20 bucks from Wal-Mart for a cheap crimping tool and a box of crimps.

 

If you use a cheap pair of crimpers to crimp a shrink splice and they have a pointed crimp section it will cut the insualtion on the splice and leave the metal butt splice inside exposed. You would ideally want to find crimpers with a rounded crimp section that will not sever the insulation. Soldering also has a lower internal resistance through the connector, and its smaller so everything can be concealed within the harness instead of having giant bumps under the tape. Thats why I usually dont use them. But I currently have two on my bike that are tiny from the Audi Airbag wiring repair kit where I used to work. They are on one of my led add on harness wires and worked really well when I needed to shorten up the harness and install a new led underbody light.

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You have to be high as a kite to not notice that at the top of this page is an exact qoute I made from earlier in this topic when this all started and you freaked out. Its states:

 

SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Dont relocate it, its a pain in the ass. Just cut all the stuff out of the stock harness and tape it back up. I have done it on 3 bikes, and I hate doing it, and cant see a benefit to it."

 

SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Redoing the harness with waterproof metri pack connectors or the oem stuff from K&L supply is a pain. There is a $99 crimp tool you have to buy and you have to put the seals in the connection end piece to seal the connectors. Theres no way I would do it without doing it right so you can take everything off. All the underbody leds and my dc conversion use factory connectors and can be unhooked easily. Its a pain in the ass if you do it to look like a stock harness and keep everything waterproofed and clean."

 

LOCOGATO EXACT QUOTE "i dont need to prove you wrong. you are wrong by saying that relocating is worthless and causes problems and that it can only be done correctly by using a 100 dollar crimp tool. i didnt put any words in your mouth. you made broad, blanket statements about things."

 

So thats not putting words in my mouth. Because that is CLEARLY not what I said.

 

I dont know if you just dont get it or what. I am in no way saying its not possible to fix a harness, shorten a harness, or work on a harness unless you have the factory crimp tool. What I am saying, is it would be difficult to make it look exactly like stock, retain all the wire colors and keep it weatherproof without the tool. So like a hammer, I hope that gets driven into your head because I have said it at least 3 times now. You however insist I said something else even though its all here in text and is clearly not what I said. There have not been generalized blanket statements, and everything has been described in detail. You wanted issues I could see with doing it, I gave them to you. Everythings been explained, and there has ven been pictures of the stuff I use. This in no way should be a mystery or be able to be misconstrued by anyone with at least the mental capacity of a goldfish. So if you dont understand, I advise you to re-read the entire topic and get a good grip on whats going on, because clearly you dont get it right now.

 

blah blah blah.

 

youve said that it causes problems, is a pain, cant be done correctly with out a special crimp tool.. thats evident from your own quoted posts. i say youre wrong. end of story.

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blah blah blah.

 

youve said that it causes problems, is a pain, cant be done correctly with out a special crimp tool.. thats evident from your own quoted posts. i say youre wrong. end of story.

 

No, I did not say it can't be done properly without a special crimp rool.

 

You almost got it though.

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seriosuly can we stop this bull shit.. Its getting no where you said he said its just pointless and it wont be settled... Who cares what you use or spend and so fourth... Lets just help each other and learn on other peoples shit...

 

I dont need to say anything else. Thats as long as someone isn't trying to tell all you guys that I said something that I didn't.

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