re-location

[locogato11283]

Only took me 1 day to notice.

you shouldnt jump on the bandwagon so quickly.. theres a reason there are still tickets left.

[Snopczynski]

so its shitty work if you dont use the factory gm tools to rewire your banshee? is that the statement youre making? because i bet there are many members here who would disagree with what youre saying.

 

secondly, what in the flying fuck does factory gm tools have to do with a yamaha banshee?? your comparison is lacking in substance because as far as i can tell its hard to compare apples to oranges.

 

 

yes, ive always been this way. i really come out in full force when fools like you make blanket statements like, "its pointless to move your harness" or "to do it right you need a $99 crimp tool."

 

i do set an example. i set a better example than someone like you does, telling a guy that just because YOU and YOUR COUSIN thought it was hard and stupid to rewire your banshee. its not hard and the guy should be supported in what he wants to do. not deterred from it because you are a godly gm tech who thinks its hard to rewire 5 wires on a banshee.

 

dont worry, i PMed the guy, and told him that you were a clown and that if he needed any help with it he could call me and i would walk him through it. i guess thats the shitty example im setting for other members huh?

 

so ill tell you what, get the fuck off my balls, before you end up like gregrob and bigred on this site. spouting off at the mouth and being a retard.

 

Now if you want to put my statements in the right context, then this is what they were before you snipped them and made them say what you wanted.

 

SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Dont relocate it, its a pain in the ass. Just cut all the stuff out of the stock harness and tape it back up. I have done it on 3 bikes, and I hate doing it, and cant see a benefit to it."

 

++++++++This is obviously my opinion. I dont see a benefit to it that outweighs the effort it takes compared to what you gain from it. In my opinion there are more issues caused by it than there are benefits.

 

SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Redoing the harness with waterproof metri pack connectors or the oem stuff from K&L supply is a pain. There is a $99 crimp tool you have to buy and you have to put the seals in the connection end piece to seal the connectors. Theres no way I would do it without doing it right so you can take everything off. All the underbody leds and my dc conversion use factory connectors and can be unhooked easily. Its a pain in the ass if you do it to look like a stock harness and keep everything waterproofed and clean."

 

+++++++++ Obviously a statement said about it being difficult to do it a fashion where everything looks stock, can be easily disconnected, remains waterproof and corrosion free. It simply states that its hard to use the stock connectors with the seals on them and crimp them right without the special tool. Its not saying you cant do it without the $99 crimp tool. Its also not saying it cant be done period. It is saying that if you install the connector pictured below on a wire end with a standard crimper so your setup still looks stock, then it would be hard to do. It also says that there is no way I would do it, without doing it right, so I could easily remove components.

 

Another thing, the factory yamaha connectors and seals are identical to the style of connector ends and seals in automotive applications. So gm's and the yamaha banshee is apples to oranges. Wire ends and wire ends are apples to apples.

 

I haven't spouted off at the mouth or been a retard.

 

As far as helping people, I dont have to message people on here to offer help, they already send me messages everyday. I average about 6-10 help messages a day from members with problems.

 

I dont appreciate someone putting words in my mouth and changing my statements, then criticizing me for it using profanity to measure how unhappy they are about it.

 

[locogato11283]

well you didnt do this guy any favors and he sure wasnt going to ask you for help on this project. so i stepped up and let him know id help him if he needed it. its not always about waiting for someone to PM you. sometimes guys dont want to impose or bother another member about something. i recognize this and will often times let them know that i am here to help if they need it.

 

and another thing, i used no expensive crimp tool and still used all the stock connectors, or did you purposely not look at my harness picture? it can be unhooked in about 2 seconds. i even used a couple stock connectors to hook up my kill switch so even it can be disconnected.. wait, what??!! you mean i used all stock connectors and no crimp tool! i must be magic!!!

 

yep, these look like stock connectors to me..

 

[Snopczynski]

I looked at it, but you didn't add anything to it and keep a constant or same color for the system the wire runs. I use stock connectors but added stuff to the system. Which obviously requires just shortening the stuff in the system and resoldering the wire. It did not require adding new connectors and installing ends on the wire for those connectors. Even my aftermarket headlights use a quick disconnect connector instead of bullet connectors now. It still comes down to the problems imposed by relocating everything, you gain more issues than benefits.

 

I do see two problems with what you did that I would have done different.

 

1. I would have cut off that stock ground ring terminal and put on a stainless steel one in its place to keep it from corroding any further. Then I would have soldered it.

2. I also buy and install all the factory colored wiring and would not have added in any other colors or mismatched colors to different components. If you did this, then I know you would have had to recrimp new ends on the haness you made to make the wire the same color all the way through the harness.

 

I also add a ground to the stator plate and then run it up the stator harness and tie it into the ground wiring on the bike. If your motor is not grounded through the mounts well, then this helps it stay grounded to the frame. This can sometimes be a problem on bikes with powdercoated or painted frames.

[locogato11283]

It still comes down to the problems imposed by relocating everything, you gain more issues than benefits.

care to elaborate on these "problems" created by relocating everything. my stuff has been relocated for 3 years now and ive never had an issue. and i bet there are a hundred more guys on the site who have relocated with no issues. so, i dont know what "problems" could arise from doing this.

 

I do see two problems with what you did that I would have done different.

of course you do. when in reality they are not "problems" but creative differences.

 

I would have cut off that stock ground ring terminal and put on a stainless steel one in its place to keep it from corroding any further. Then I would have soldered it.

2. I also buy and install all the factory colored wiring and would not have added in any other colors or mismatched colors to different components. If you did this, then I know you would have had to recrimp new ends on the haness you made to make the wire the same color all the way through the harness.

that ring is fine. i cleaned it off before install. no issues. i didnt add anything. i shortened the harness up and used shrink tube when i put the wires back together. i NEVER used a crimper for anything on this project. so you consider these "problems?" i didnt change out the ring and thats a problem? and the second one is just made up considering i didnt add anything. if youre shortening the harness why would you need to add anything? ridiculous. youre reaching.

 

I also add a ground to the stator plate and then run it up the stator harness and tie it into the ground wiring on the bike. If your motor is not grounded through the mounts well, then this helps it stay grounded to the frame. This can sometimes be a problem on bikes with powdercoated or painted frames.

i agree, the grounds need to be good and some people overlook it. i cleaned up my terminal and ground off the PC where i mounted it at. i dont think adding another ground is really necessary but if it makes you feel better then by all means go ahead.

[KaosBanshee44]

I was wondering what you were talking about using a 100 dollar crimp tool. Isn't there a easier way to shorten the wires without messing with the connectors? For example just shortening the wires that you need to have and just crimping the wires together and not even messing with the connecters? Now let me say this i haven't messed with my electrical yet nor have i re-ran my wires on my new frame. Just asking a few questions before i do because in my eyes i was just gonna shorten the wires as needed or is there more to it than i think?

[Bansh-eman]

yes it is possible without having the fancy tool. Snop is simply making the point that by not doing it the way he has that the wires are not sealed to water and other elements. So you run the chance that water gets in there and messes somethingup. the stuff he used was lets say for the lack of better words, the perfectionists wy of doing it.

[dajogejr]

Cut, solder, and use heat shrink tubing then electrical tape at the ends if need be...then dielectric grease to seal them.

[Snopczynski]

care to elaborate on these "problems" created by relocating everything. my stuff has been relocated for 3 years now and ive never had an issue. and i bet there are a hundred more guys on the site who have relocated with no issues. so, i dont know what "problems" could arise from doing this.

 

 

If youre shortening the harness why would you need to add anything? ridiculous. youre reaching.

 

When I say problems, what I mean is this. When someone pays you to do something for them, they want the absolute best quality work, and they want to not have any problems with what you did. If I make a harness for someone it needs to hold up to the rigors of what its going to be put through from being on the bike. Stainless ring terminals keep the terminal from corroding, and causing runability issues. Keeping the wire colors the same makes it so the customer can use a factory wiring diagram to understand the harness if he should need to. I dont cut corners on customers bikes, and I definitely wont cut any corners on my own stuff. In the long run it never pays off when something fails and leaves you stranded, or spending you entire trip trying to make something run or perform well.

 

Clearance problems when adding components like steering stabilizers. No easy way to unbolt or remove the electrical components without taking off the front bumper, steering stabilizer, pipes, radiator or plastics depending on where you put the stuff. Hard to disconnect the items to get an electrical tester in there to check things. RFI problems from having the coil to close to the cdi. Electrical components being subjected to harsh conditions because they are now located lower down on the front of the bike. Sand packed into the components, water intrusion from puddles. Mud getting caked and packed into the electrical components and connectors. If you add different color wires to the system, and you dont remember what color wire does what, then that obviously creates a problem. The time it takes to fabricate, weld in, and thread brackets. You also have to come up with a way to refinish the frame either completely or in that area if you weld on it. For me the negatives out weigh the positives of the modification.

 

I am not "Reaching", I can easily see by your pic you changed some things. You shortened and added what looks like a quick disconnect for the coil wires. It appears you changed the color on the coil wires though (probably so you could use already crimped ends and solder the base wire to them. Wouldn't this qualify as "adding" something? If you would have kept the orange and black for the coil wires, you would have had to crimp new ends on at least the orange wire.

 

I think theres a little reaching going on here by you trying to scramble and come up with ways to somehow prove me wrong even though I voiced an opinion and there is no right or wrong. You just disagreed with it, then put words in my mouth, then got mad because you didn't like the words you put in my mouth. Nobody here is right or wrong for wanting to do this mod or not. All I did was state my opinion of what I thought about doing the modification, how I do it, and why I would not do it certain ways. I am entitled to think these things. Never once did I say "its my way or the highway".

[Snopczynski]

I was wondering what you were talking about using a 100 dollar crimp tool. Isn't there a easier way to shorten the wires without messing with the connectors? For example just shortening the wires that you need to have and just crimping the wires together and not even messing with the connecters? Now let me say this i haven't messed with my electrical yet nor have i re-ran my wires on my new frame. Just asking a few questions before i do because in my eyes i was just gonna shorten the wires as needed or is there more to it than i think?

 

 

Absolutely, you can cut the wiring and solder it no problems, and it ends up being shorter. However, if you go to add lets say a stock quick disconnect connector to the coil wires from the harness. Then you will need to install a wiring end on at least the orange coil wire if you want to keep a continous color. It would be very difficult to do with standard crimpers. The wiring ends have at least 1-3 crimp tangs, plus a hoop that reatains the connector seal like the pic posted earlier. If you use the tool, you just put the connector end in the crimpers, put the seal on the wire and insert it in to the connectors and squeeze. Then you just slide the connector end on the wire into the factory quyick disconnect and your done.

 

When you do stuff like cut the tors off, you can keep the wiring connectors and leave some of the wire on the ends. You can then go through and solder the wire and put heat shrink onto the other wires if your adding things to your harness. The only downfall is the wiring will be a different color at the end than the wire your soldering to in most cases.

[KaosBanshee44]

That's what i was thinking, my plan was to get rid of all the wires that i didn't need like tors which is already cut off. Just clean up all the wiring, get rid of stuff i don't need and solder the ends and then shrink wrap after that. Just really cleaning up the harness and shortening the wires that i need to shorten etc.

[locogato11283]

I am not "Reaching", I can easily see by your pic you changed some things. You shortened and added what looks like a quick disconnect for the coil wires. It appears you changed the color on the coil wires though (probably so you could use already crimped ends and solder the base wire to them. Wouldn't this qualify as "adding" something? If you would have kept the orange and black for the coil wires, you would have had to crimp new ends on at least the orange wire.

i added a plug for the kill switch. i never soldered anything. i ONLY used heat shrink tube and electrical tape. i changed NO wiring. i only shortened wires and added the kill switch plug, which i just spliced in. the plug i used for the kill switch plug might have had a different color wire. big deal. its not like the banshee wiring harness is so complicated that someone cant figure it out. you still dont need an expensive crimper to do that..

 

I think theres a little reaching going on here by you trying to scramble and come up with ways to somehow prove me wrong even though I voiced an opinion and there is no right or wrong. You just disagreed with it, then put words in my mouth, then got mad because you didn't like the words you put in my mouth. Nobody here is right or wrong for wanting to do this mod or not. All I did was state my opinion of what I thought about doing the modification, how I do it, and why I would not do it certain ways. I am entitled to think these things. Never once did I say "its my way or the highway".

i dont need to prove you wrong. you are wrong by saying that relocating is worthless and causes problems and that it can only be done correctly by using a 100 dollar crimp tool. i didnt put any words in your mouth. you made broad, blanket statements about things. i called you out on it. but since youre a certified GM tech i guess your know all about electrical systems trumps my tiny knowledge about the very intricate and complicated banshee wiring harness.

[locogato11283]

That's what i was thinking, my plan was to get rid of all the wires that i didn't need like tors which is already cut off. Just clean up all the wiring, get rid of stuff i don't need and solder the ends and then shrink wrap after that. Just really cleaning up the harness and shortening the wires that i need to shorten etc.

 

cody, my harness is like 18" long. pretty simple to do with the clymers. like i told the other guy, if you need any help hollar at me and ill go through it with you since youre not a GM certified tech.

[#1banshee]

:::: WELCOME TO HQ SPRINGER ::

[MikeNick]

I recently fixed some problems with wires on my bike and simply used heat shrink crimp connects..Baddah Bing Baddah Bang.. DONE!!! :cool:...haha