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re-location


killshee

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the benefit is that it looks 100% better. no sense in having wires running from front to back in your bike.

 

 

he also loves single carb setups, so just consider the source.

 

I dont know where you have been, but I personally haven't ran a single carb setup in over a year on my own bike. Nor have I recommend them to anyone on here for over a year.

 

You have hoses and cables running everywhere, I say just run the harness with all the stuff and zip tie it to it for securing it. All the stuff is there anyway. There are ways to secure it to the frame that look cool, and that makes it easier to deal with in the long run. My best friend and my cosuin both swore to god after we relocated their stuff that they would never do it again. We aren't either, I got a drag frame in my garage on my toolbox that still has the cdi mount back on the subframe cause we aint dealing with that shit.

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I dont know where you have been, but I personally haven't ran a single carb setup in over a year on my own bike. Nor have I recommend them to anyone on here for over a year.

 

You have hoses and cables running everywhere, I say just run the harness with all the stuff and zip tie it to it for securing it. All the stuff is there anyway. There are ways to secure it to the frame that look cool, and that makes it easier to deal with in the long run. My best friend and my cosuin both swore to god after we relocated their stuff that they would never do it again. We aren't either, I got a drag frame in my garage on my toolbox that still has the cdi mount back on the subframe cause we aint dealing with that shit.

 

oh well shit, my bad.. glad you finally realized single carb setups suck..

 

hoses and cables running everywhere? what are you talking about? there are maybe 3 hoses on the entire bike and they are all in the engine area. they dont run to the front or the back of the bike. it looks 10x cleaner with my setup how it is now.

 

just because you and your cousins cant figure out how to rewire an already simple wiring harness doesnt mean its not worth doing.

 

cleaning up the wiring harness should be done by EVERYONE. it simplifies the system and in case of a wiring issue makes it a lot easier to find the problem.

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oh well shit, my bad.. glad you finally realized single carb setups suck..

 

hoses and cables running everywhere? what are you talking about? there are maybe 3 hoses on the entire bike and they are all in the engine area. they dont run to the front or the back of the bike. it looks 10x cleaner with my setup how it is now.

 

just because you and your cousins cant figure out how to rewire an already simple wiring harness doesnt mean its not worth doing.

 

cleaning up the wiring harness should be done by EVERYONE. it simplifies the system and in case of a wiring issue makes it a lot easier to find the problem.

 

If you want to make this personal I can. Saying things like "just because you and your cousins can't rewire an already simple harness" is obviously going to piss me off. The bikes I did ran the first time I went to start them. I am an ASE and factory Audi, GM Certified auto Technician with an associates degree in auto technology. I had to go to a 3 week class on 12v systems in college and 5 days of hands on training with audi harness repairs. I can even fix the wiring on an airbag system. So lets try to act like adults, and not act like a bunch of 5 year old assholes who are only interested in trying to get a rise out of someone to impress people on a forum about atv's.

 

The hoses I referred to are the radiator overflow hose, the case vent hoses, and your still gonna have a tailight wire to deal with. Redoing the harness with waterproof metri pack connectors or the oem stuff from K&L supply is a pain. There is a $99 crimp tool you have to buy and you have to put the seals in the connection end piece to seal the connectors. Theres no way I would do it without doing it right so you can take everything off. All the underbody leds and my dc conversion use factory connectors and can be unhooked easily. Its a pain in the ass if you do it to look like a stock harness and keep everything waterproofed and clean.

 

I also stated earlier in this post that cleaning up the harness is a good idea as well. Moving components around is a pain in the ass and more work than its worth.

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You can clean your harness and frame up and still keep the wires in the back. I cut all the extra crap off my harness and got some liquid tape and sealed the wires off. Then got some 1/4 in flexable wire protector stuff and covered all the wires. Then removed the big ugly light switch and put a CR 250 kill switch and moved my lights to a 2 stage (on high/off) toggle and mounted it under my tank cover. I am an electrical idiot and I figured it out. That means anyone can do it!

 

I wish I was in the states, I could snap a pict.

 

Snop knows his shit when it come to electircal! I hit him up a few times about making sure I got the right switch

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i didnt realize u were doing them 4 customers i thought they were all your and i see what your saying but if im powder coating i would rather have a clean frame and harness so any thing that i can removie that wont make the frame weak is gettin removed and anything that makes it look better will get moved i have alot of spare time and i enjoy working on my quad .... i have the layout of the wire harness ... and also have one thats marked off for all the shit u dont need .... and i kno how to solder so i think its worth my time to make it look better i have to tare it all the way down anyhow to get it painted so i mine as well do it

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If you want to make this personal I can. Saying things like "just because you and your cousins can't rewire an already simple harness" is obviously going to piss me off. The bikes I did ran the first time I went to start them. I am an ASE and factory Audi, GM Certified auto Technician with an associates degree in auto technology. I had to go to a 3 week class on 12v systems in college and 5 days of hands on training with audi harness repairs. I can even fix the wiring on an airbag system. So lets try to act like adults, and not act like a bunch of 5 year old assholes who are only interested in trying to get a rise out of someone to impress people on a forum about atv's.

congratulations. so then whats the problem?

 

The hoses I referred to are the radiator overflow hose, the case vent hoses, and your still gonna have a tailight wire to deal with. Redoing the harness with waterproof metri pack connectors or the oem stuff from K&L supply is a pain. There is a $99 crimp tool you have to buy and you have to put the seals in the connection end piece to seal the connectors. Theres no way I would do it without doing it right so you can take everything off. All the underbody leds and my dc conversion use factory connectors and can be unhooked easily. Its a pain in the ass if you do it to look like a stock harness and keep everything waterproofed and clean.

 

1) the radiator over flow hose can be run straight to the ground, right after you take off the overflow bottle.

2) case vent hoses can be cut to only a few inches long.

3) i dont run a taillight.

4) waterproof metri pack connectors? wtf? i used some shrink tube and electrical tape. works just fine.

5) $99 crimp tool. LOL

6) underbody LED's? you have a banshee or a rice burner with a fart pipe on it?

 

I also stated earlier in this post that cleaning up the harness is a good idea as well. Moving components around is a pain in the ass and more work than its worth.

 

moving components is not a pain in the ass. its not that much work, esp if you just buy the relocation bracket. it looks a ton better and unclutters the rear of the bike. its totally worth it, especially if you were to wreck your shit in the rear and to not have it tear up all your wiring. surely an ASE factory certified technician shouldnt have that much of a problem with it.

 

we can make this personal all day if you want. just because you and your cousins cant figure out how to wire a banshee without an overpriced crimp tool and some ridiculous waterproof connectors doesnt mean everyone else cant. THE SHIT IS EASY.

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I have done 1 for my best friend and 1 for my cosuin as well. After they both ran them and have had to deal with them, we are leaving all the stuff were it is supposed to go on the drag bike. Its just a general pain. If you have a steering dampner, then you have to watch were you put the cdi up front. If you dont have one and go to add one later after you put the cdi in front, then the dampner may not fit. If you ride through a dune and the front gets gunked up with sand, then its a bitch to clean it all out if you need to do something with any of the components. Its hard to unbolt the components or disconnect the connectors when they are all crammed up under the front plastics too.

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congratulations. so then whats the problem?

 

 

 

1) the radiator over flow hose can be run straight to the ground, right after you take off the overflow bottle.

2) case vent hoses can be cut to only a few inches long.

3) i dont run a taillight.

4) waterproof metri pack connectors? wtf? i used some shrink tube and electrical tape. works just fine.

5) $99 crimp tool. LOL

6) underbody LED's? you have a banshee or a rice burner with a fart pipe on it?

 

 

 

moving components is not a pain in the ass. its not that much work, esp if you just buy the relocation bracket. it looks a ton better and unclutters the rear of the bike. its totally worth it, especially if you were to wreck your shit in the rear and to not have it tear up all your wiring. surely an ASE factory certified technician shouldnt have that much of a problem with it.

 

we can make this personal all day if you want. just because you and your cousins cant figure out how to wire a banshee without an overpriced crimp tool and some ridiculous waterproof connectors doesnt mean everyone else cant. THE SHIT IS EASY.

 

1. I run the overflow onto my pipes so I know when the bike gets hot.

2. If you leave all the vent hoses on the "T" and running in the stock locations then you dont have to plug the hose when you tip the bike up on end.

3. I do run a tailight, because its required by law to have one at night where we ride.

4. Shrink tube and electrical tape will not give you quick disconnects and keep sand and water out.

5. The GM Weather pack connector tool is $99, and it does an awesome job of putting special wire ends on for weather pack connectors and the stock connectors.

6. I have a banshee, and those underbody leds keep people from running into it when its sitting in the middle of the dunes at night while I am laying pipe to my wife.

 

Obviously you haven't seen all the threads about how I put a battery in my bike and run a dc conversion. Everything looks clean and stock on the harness too. I am also not getting rid of my coolant catch tank, its cheap insurance for when the bike gets hot. It doesn't look any different under the back if you run plastics, a tailight, or a license plate and leave the stuff where it goes stock. Not to mention the fact that you will still have the 4 hours of your life to do something worth while instead of relocating electrical hardware and making a harness.

 

Im not the one making it personal, for some reason that I dont understand, you are!

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I had something I was gonna say, but I decided that it was definitely gonna fall under the "Making it personal" category. :bomb_ie:

 

whats your problem with "making it personal"? it is personal. you said you dont like doing it. you, PERSONALLY, dont like doing it. youre about retarded. you and your cousins.

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I might add...

If you ever upgrade your CDI or Coil, not a good idea to have them that close together.

A Nology coil OR Dyna CDI can cause interference with each other if placed that close together.

 

I keep mine in the back...I cut my stock rear plastics off, but left the little bit between the subframe rails.

 

I have a LARGE velcro strip holding mine in. If it goes...I can swap it out in a minute. I've learned to keep spare Sator, CDI and coils in the tool box....

 

My harness is cut to nothing, I have a set of wires going to the CDI under the seat, my kill switch, coil wires and those going to the Stator. And and extra ground. That's it.

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I might add...

If you ever upgrade your CDI or Coil, not a good idea to have them that close together.

A Nology coil OR Dyna CDI can cause interference with each other if placed that close together.

 

I keep mine in the back...I cut my stock rear plastics off, but left the little bit between the subframe rails.

 

I have a LARGE velcro strip holding mine in. If it goes...I can swap it out in a minute. I've learned to keep spare Sator, CDI and coils in the tool box....

 

My harness is cut to nothing, I have a set of wires going to the CDI under the seat, my kill switch, coil wires and those going to the Stator. And and extra ground. That's it.

This question is for dajogejr,with the plate set-up I use is the nology coil too close to cdi

IMG_2230.jpg

IMG_2234.jpg

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