regalrocket Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Ok now with the uppers: The setup is pretty much the same. Using the template, I marked where to slice the tubing. Cut it narrow, then with the grinder, cope (notch, fishmouth, it goes by many terms) it out to fit the bushing. Remember that the bushing is on an angle, and cope accordingly. Set the angle again, for this one it was 3 inches. Once tacked, and then checked again for angles both off the template, and off of the machine, its welded up. Small picture of our in house shop. Its alot bigger, but this just gives you an idea of what little we have really. Nothing special really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrMeyer Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 Hey man keep up the good work and i understand on wanting better ball joints with addjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Posted December 21, 2008 Report Share Posted December 21, 2008 good stuff man, very fun to read. keep it comin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalrocket Posted December 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2008 Ok, more. I was reading the YFZ450 shock install thread, and some things really made me cringe. First off DO NOT elongate the holes in the A-arm to get the shock to fit. The big end of the shock eye hits the a-arm reinforcement plate, and elongating the hole, will just make sure that the eye grinds on that plate every second of the quads life, not good. Also, I don't recomend cutting the metal from under the eye mount, it really adds alot of strength, so removing it is bad. What I did is heat the area red hot, and with a bolt ground to a radius, I massaged the area down. I heated, beated, heated, beated, then heated for a min or 2 and let cool slow (getto temper). This give LOTS of clearance, keeps it strong, and is pretty easy to do. It can be done with a regular cheap propane torch. My beating tool (happens to be a shock mount bolt, as it was rusted and gettting replaced). Painted Lower with the pocket made by beating. Upper painted. Just gotta paint the ball joints, and its all getting installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04sand4 Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 Cant wait to see them on the shee should look good . nice job!!! :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.J. Posted December 25, 2008 Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 Excellent fabbing skills! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee_Bandit Posted December 25, 2008 Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 Damn we got a unsung talent right here :thumbsup: Nice work pal. Can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 Nice work!! Did you have to ream spindle? If so what's the # of the taper? What's your thoughts on J-arm mod? Son just got a "new" 87, cant belive nobody came up with direct replacement joint for these!! With joints for a 87 Warrior going for $87 to$117 (ouch) I can see why people go with aftermarket arms. Do you think cutting stem off Moog joint you used would work for J-arm? Obviously using great care welding to avoid over heating joint. Also have a Blaster and Warrior so I should be good at this mod before I'm done. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 might i make a suggestion? since those are obviously tie rod ball joints, it might be easier to cut up some old tie rods. for most, cutting and welding is alot easier to get done than making, or finding the sleves. just a thought. oh, and remember to preheat them before welding, if you use the cast tie rods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evro Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 crazy skills man, looks awesome :yes: :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 According to Moog web sight, their rod ends are forged. Rod ends used by reagle rocket are for 78-81 courier, 76 Mazda B1600 , 77B1800' 79 B2000. Searched a web site found some interesting possibilities for ball joints, Local auto parts said he would help me, got 8-9 to check out fron pics on site. Probabaley drive him crazy, LOL! Least for me getting sleeves made won't be much of prob. Sons gf father is a machinest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitbread Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Does anyone happen to know the thread size and pitch for part of the joint that eventually screws into the A arm? I'm in the process of doing the same to my shee but the joints won't be in until wednesday . I'm just trying to get everything lathed up before they get here to save some time. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitbread Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Regal Rocket got back to me via pm much quicker than I expected. It's M16x1.5 for anyone else curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert.b.west Posted September 8, 2009 Report Share Posted September 8, 2009 I could build new ones, but I'm lazy, and I really don't wana change the geometry. Course, it would probably just slightly more work, but I really tend to go overboard easily, so this will limit me. I just want better ball joints. Pictures on the bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted September 8, 2009 Report Share Posted September 8, 2009 Where did you get the ball joints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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