Jump to content

TZ bearing or straight cut gears


Recommended Posts

I would think they take a lot of lateral (pulling on the end of the crank) force off. You still have a high hp motor trying to force the gears appart during hard launches.

 

I would go with a tz berring if your only doing one. Might as well put a max load on the stator side of the crank while your in there.

 

josh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think they take a lot of lateral (pulling on the end of the crank) force off. You still have a high hp motor trying to force the gears appart during hard launches.

 

I would go with a tz berring if your only doing one. Might as well put a max load on the stator side of the crank while your in there.

 

josh

Would it be beneficial to put a tz bearing on both sides or is it just too much over kill?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not do a tz bearing without straight cuts. The tz bearing is a needle type bearing and is not made to take any side load like the ball bearing style max load. With the helical cut drive gears there is going to be some side load which is not good for the tz bearing. The tz is a great bearing but i wouldnt recommend using it without the straight cuts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Motors coming apart so I was wondering what is the better upgrade. TZ bearing or the straight gears. I've been told the gears take alot of pressure of the crank bearing. Let me know what you think.

Thanks for the advice guys. I was just being lazy and did'nt want to split the cases. Anyway I decided to

do both. I have to much invested to be lazy. A friend of mine has a 400 cheetah a blew 2 right side crank bearings in 2 years. So that got me a little worried. I'll just do it right before somthing blows.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I'm a lucky one....

 

I've had a TZ on my PTO side for 2 years and literally hundreds and hundreds of passes without a single issue...on my 1996 stock helical gears.

 

Straight cuts are a waste of money on smaller motors, unless you're running pavement, hitting N20 or you need to alter your gearing ratio for 1/4 mile runs without running a HUGE front sprocket.

 

No one really carries the Yamaha OEM TZ bearing anymore. People buy the NTN bearing and have the race machined for the clip on the PTO side... It's what I have in mine.

 

I still have an OEM on my flywheel side.

Edited by dajogejr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I guess I'm a lucky one....

 

I've had a TZ on my PTO side for 2 years and literally hundreds and hundreds of passes without a single issue...on my 1996 stock helical gears.

 

Straight cuts are a waste of money on smaller motors, unless you're running pavement, hitting N20 or you need to alter your gearing ratio for 1/4 mile runs without running a HUGE front sprocket.

 

No one really carries the Yamaha OEM TZ bearing anymore. People buy the NTN bearing and have the race machined for the clip on the PTO side... It's what I have in mine.

 

I still have an OEM on my flywheel side.

Dave actually shares my base blanket opinion on this subject. The only other reason to run the straight cuts is if you want to change your primary gear ratio, then a straight cut hear is easier to manufacture. :geek:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had a TZ on my PTO side for 2 years and literally hundreds and hundreds of passes without a single issue...on my 1996 stock helical gears.

 

Straight cuts are a waste of money on smaller motors, unless you're running pavement, hitting N20 or you need to alter your gearing ratio for 1/4 mile runs without running a HUGE front sprocket.

 

No one really carries the Yamaha OEM TZ bearing anymore. People buy the NTN bearing and have the race machined for the clip on the PTO side... It's what I have in mine.

 

I still have an OEM on my flywheel side.

I really debated a long time (well, about ten days anyway) about purchasing straight cut gears. I have much faith in what you and Firehead are saying, but much like Matt, I did not want to take a chance wrecking an engine that I thinks runs very well for one built by someone who does this as a hobby.

If cash isn't an issue, do both. Otherwise the TZ and max load bearing is good enough. :geek:

It is funny, I took this advice before you posted #11 above. :biggrin: Just ordered them...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice guys. I was just being lazy and did'nt want to split the cases. Anyway I decided to

do both. I have to much invested to be lazy. A friend of mine has a 400 cheetah a blew 2 right side crank bearings in 2 years. So that got me a little worried. I'll just do it right before somthing blows.

Are you adding the gears to your existing basket? I decided to throw down for the Hinson spring tension basket with the straight-cut gears...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bellicose...I don't blame you. The thought of pissing away thousands to save a few hundred has never sit well with me either.

 

I've been lucky on my last two cub motors to have a good friend help me, and he's done quite a few of them.

I put my faith in him when he said straight cuts weren't needed...throw a good PTO bearing on there, and you're fine.

 

2 years and a LOT of runs later, he hit the mark with me. I would LOVE to have a spring loaded hinson and straight cuts.

Now that I'm gonna spray it with 30 some time this year....that might be one of the next things on the list....

 

That setup is very nice...enjoy!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...