Cheetah Pipes

[Tim Potteiger]

If CPI's and Shearer's dont work well for the type of riding your doing then you clearly have the wrong cylinder sitting on top of your cases.

 

 

/agreed

 

Cubs lose 10 HP with T5s or FMFs vs Shearer or CPI, and Cubs are not meant for casual riding, it's a drag motor, use a drag pipe

[POORBOY350]

/agreed

 

Cubs lose 10 HP with T5s or FMFs vs Shearer or CPI, and Cubs are not meant for casual riding, it's a drag motor, use a drag pipe

 

wow im prob losing more.

[POORBOY350]

I don't want you to think that the bike won't run as it is now...it will.

But for the kind of power you're looking for based on those mods, a nice dune port on stockers will do just as well, and MUCH cheaper. Throw in that 4 mil crank in a stocker cylinder, they run very healthy.

 

In order to get the most out of your cylinders, as said...bigger carbs, freer flowing exhaust (CPI, Shearer) but once you do that...you will have a harder hitting, narrower spread of useable power.

 

And I promise you just can't throw some knobby tires on it and expect it to hook up, shift properly under full throttle, etc.

 

yes it will run but if i can make some serious horse power by just changing pipes, carbs,more timing, ect...then i would not mind making it a drag bike(or somewhat). im always looking for more power but i guess it depends on what kind of ''spread of usable power'' i would want. i want something hard to handle on the trails(almost wide open) thats what makes it fun. but i dont want a full blown drag bike i just want it could hit harder like you said. more power is never bad. your saying 35mm carbsarent big for this motor(if i had some cpi's)?thats all it takes is bigger carbs and exhaust that can make them flow? sounds simple, im sure there is more to it. that goes along with it. but what size carbs would go with what exhaust? sorry so many questions,just learning

[J-Madd]

dude if you think that cub cylinders are drag cylinders you need to seriously go re-evaluate what is out there. Just because they are ported the way they are out of the castings does not make them drag cylinders. Calvin developed these cyclenders for bolt on performance not as drag set up They were intially built as an idea that friends of his from glamis area that have play bikes wanted more power for ridding in the big sand. Hence why the cub is not made in any version bigger than 68mm bore.

 

Sure drag ported cylinders sacrafice bottom end but there is more to factor in besides porting, like bore, stroke, timing and compression. To compare a 68 bore X 68 stroke cub motor to a set of drag ported stock cylinders is just not in the cards, Those 2 motors do not run alike or make even close to the same power curve.

 

AND explain this, if the T-5's don't make any more bottom end power or torqe why do they come up on the pipe quicker? Or when you are off the throttle an have to manuver and get back on the throttle the t-5's will come back on and with the CPI's you will have to either downshift or clutch the motor? Sounds like the t-5's make more bottom end power to me... I think it is fairly obvious just by looking at the pipe design and the chamber size what each of these pipes are made for that does not take rocket science, the bigger the chamber the more fuel load the pipe will take.

 

I do believe you are correct on saying that the t-5's hold back the cubs top end potential no doubt. but your ESTIMATION that the CPI design makes as much bottom end power and torque is mistakenly off. And according to your signature you don't even own a cub motor so do you have any experience that makes you so positive on your results? Also According to YOUR motor builder (quote "* Spec 1 porting will add more mid and top-end power- great for the dune riders who like to hill-race! ") how is he doing that epoxy the boost ports back closed?

 

quote "* Spec 1 porting will add more mid and top-end power- great for the dune riders who like to hill-race! "

 

[dajogejr]

35s and CPIs would be a good mate for that motor.

Hard to handle in the trails? Just keep a stock swingarm on it...it'll be real hard to handle with the front end in the air the whole time.

Believe, a burst of 80HP right now heading towards a tree is not what you want....

[POORBOY350]

35s and CPIs would be a good mate for that motor.

Hard to handle in the trails? Just keep a stock swingarm on it...it'll be real hard to handle with the front end in the air the whole time.

Believe, a burst of 80HP right now heading towards a tree is not what you want....

 

good cause i've already got 35s just need cpi's and play with my timing maybe its only +4. thanks for all the info man really appreciate it. i have a shorter swing arm than stock lol. but i wouldnt mind easin towards a drag/play bike. i like speed and power and a shee is not the best thing for trail riding anyway i wouldnt even try to get into a tight space with it mostly open roads.

[dajogejr]

Shorter than stock on a cub cylinder.

Is your life insurance up to date?

 

Got Delta? Afflack?

[POORBOY350]

Shorter than stock on a cub cylinder.

Is your life insurance up to date?

 

Got Delta? Afflack?

[/quote

 

i didnt build it. if i had the money now it would be a whole diff bike. :biggrin:

[PACIFIC NW BANSHEE]

Anybody ever run T-5's or FMF's on their Cheetah? I have Cpi's on my 4mill and was thinking about trying something different.

 

He never said what the size of the motor is and what he rides in sand ,dirt, trail ?? I dont think with a small bore cub setup you would see a big change if you are running small bore drag pipes or t5s .Now if you running big bore setup with large bore cpis you will see a huge difference .Just depends on what you want out of your bike.I have had cpi big bore pipes the worst pipes leak oil chrome is crap just all around bad pipes.My paul turners are awesome made well make for all around smooth riding bike and yes i do loose about ten hp but i will give up the hp to have a good all around duneable bike that hauls ass

[Wiz]

To start the CUB is not built in anything more that 68mm... http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/part_list?manufacturer=3 looks pretty obvious to me.....must not be able to see the SUPER in front of the bigger bore specs.

 

dajoger, in whatever diluted world you are living in that thinks you can get same hp numbers out of a dune ported stock cyclinder motor as a 421 cub you need to take medication. No matter what pipe you are running. It gets back to the numbers thing who cares? I have buddy that has a 4 mill DM that spanks 7, 10 and 12 mil bikes all day long.

 

the cub motors are great sand motors, SAND TRAILS, SAND DUNES, HILLSHOOTERS....it is probably not the best choice in you live in Nebraska,Ohio,Missisippi or whereever and ride DIRT. Or if you ride at your local DRAG track unless you like getting your ass handed to you all day long by the DM's or the DMX's in the same stroke combonations...

 

I think some of you are to dyno happy with seeing who can make the most HP or who is the fastest at the track. It is not all about who is the fastest it is about who's set up works for them. The cub set-up was not designed specificly for drag racing it does not have the specs to be competitive with limited bore sizes. Although it works well it is out dated and out matched in the serious drag world. They were built to accept stock parts that in no way will work as well as the aftermarket side of the spectrum. These cylinders were designed for the duner that wanted more power at a cheaper cost than spending tons of money on stock cylinders to get mixed results.

 

"Cubs lose 10 HP with T5s or FMFs vs Shearer or CPI, and Cubs are not meant for casual riding, it's a drag motor, use a drag pipe "........ I will sacrafice that 10hp. on the top to get 10ft lbs. of torque... Mayby your version of casual ridding is not the same as other peoples version. My version of casual riding is top of 3rd through top of 5th for around 30 miles without stopping is that your version?

 

I guess where some of this thread went sideways is where I said that I trail ride, my play bikes do not see dirt I have griz for that, my version of trail ride is on the sand and not just the open sand, the Oregon Sand where there are trees, witches eyes, razor backs and other people. The cub motors are getting more popular all the time becasue of CHEAP power, ridablity, reliablity and tunability to fit alot of peoples needs.

 

According to Mike at Cascade Innovations "unless you are going to drag race a cub motor you do not want to run a CPI or Shearer pipe, we set our dune cub motors up with paul turners and they pull in th 80 hp range and top rpms around 8800 where you want a soild reliable dune bike to run, while the CPI's and shearer's go over the 10,000 RPM mark they are not dune/play pipes"

 

Cascade Innovation (503)-663-2887

[dajogejr]

Please show me where I said you can get the same horsepower numbers out of a stock cylinder dune port as you can a 421 cub.

 

Based on this statement right here:

 

" The cub set-up was not designed specificly for drag racing it does not have the specs to be competitive with limited bore sizes. Although it works well it is out dated and out matched in the serious drag world. They were built to accept stock parts that in no way will work as well as the aftermarket side of the spectrum. These cylinders were designed for the duner that wanted more power at a cheaper cost than spending tons of money on stock cylinders to get mixed results."

 

You clearly don't have a clue on what you're talking about. In their respective size classes...the cubs do AWESOME.

You clearly don't have a clue about what is winning at national level drag racing.

 

Of course a 4 mil DM spanks 4, 7, 10 and 12 mil motors. You do realize that the DM is a bigger motor and in a different class...right?

 

Do some reading...go to a real race...please.

[PACIFIC NW BANSHEE]

To start the CUB is not built in anything more that 68mm... http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/part_list?manufacturer=3 looks pretty obvious to me.....must not be able to see the SUPER in front of the bigger bore specs.

 

dajoger, in whatever diluted world you are living in that thinks you can get same hp numbers out of a dune ported stock cyclinder motor as a 421 cub you need to take medication. No matter what pipe you are running. It gets back to the numbers thing who cares? I have buddy that has a 4 mill DM that spanks 7, 10 and 12 mil bikes all day long.

 

the cub motors are great sand motors, SAND TRAILS, SAND DUNES, HILLSHOOTERS....it is probably not the best choice in you live in Nebraska,Ohio,Missisippi or whereever and ride DIRT. Or if you ride at your local DRAG track unless you like getting your ass handed to you all day long by the DM's or the DMX's in the same stroke combonations...

 

I think some of you are to dyno happy with seeing who can make the most HP or who is the fastest at the track. It is not all about who is the fastest it is about who's set up works for them. The cub set-up was not designed specificly for drag racing it does not have the specs to be competitive with limited bore sizes. Although it works well it is out dated and out matched in the serious drag world. They were built to accept stock parts that in no way will work as well as the aftermarket side of the spectrum. These cylinders were designed for the duner that wanted more power at a cheaper cost than spending tons of money on stock cylinders to get mixed results.

 

"Cubs lose 10 HP with T5s or FMFs vs Shearer or CPI, and Cubs are not meant for casual riding, it's a drag motor, use a drag pipe "........ I will sacrafice that 10hp. on the top to get 10ft lbs. of torque... Mayby your version of casual ridding is not the same as other peoples version. My version of casual riding is top of 3rd through top of 5th for around 30 miles without stopping is that your version?

 

I guess where some of this thread went sideways is where I said that I trail ride, my play bikes do not see dirt I have griz for that, my version of trail ride is on the sand and not just the open sand, the Oregon Sand where there are trees, witches eyes, razor backs and other people. The cub motors are getting more popular all the time becasue of CHEAP power, ridablity, reliablity and tunability to fit alot of peoples needs.

 

According to Mike at Cascade Innovations "unless you are going to drag race a cub motor you do not want to run a CPI or Shearer pipe, we set our dune cub motors up with paul turners and they pull in th 80 hp range and top rpms around 8800 where you want a soild reliable dune bike to run, while the CPI's and shearer's go over the 10,000 RPM mark they are not dune/play pipes"

 

Cascade Innovation (503)-663-2887

 

 

 

I agree with you 100% i would never think cubs are for drag racing only give me a break

[sheerider1026]

dam i gotta get in on this... lol.. i have a 392 cub on my play bike.. i am runing a +2 swingarm.. yea, its a fuckin handful for me to ride!! it has inframe cpi's, and 33mm pwk's. i am running it on 93.. i trail ride it here in the hills of kentucky also, but like i said, its a handfull.. 9 times out of 10 i leave the cub bike at home when i go riding on my other banshee (its a trail/play port stock cylinder bike) . here is my advice to anyone looking into a cub motor.. if you are looking for more power and you trail/woods ride, just get your stock cylinders ported to match your riding style. unless you like a wild ride go for the cub.. not sure who all has a cub motor but these little motors pull real fucking hard up top!!! by mid day when i am out riding, nobody will race me on my cub bike!!! but i like having something that screams like hell and puts a smile on my face, so i will keep my cub.. the end.

[shanYE west]

I think a set of dune ported stock cylinders will make just as much as a detuned 421 cub. (both on gas) And have just as good of a curve.. I'll take that bet..

 

Bottom line.. the port durations on a cub favor drag pipes.. simple as that.. yeah.. there are ways to squeeze a lil more bottom end out.. but its still a drag cylinder. Your trying to make it have power where it just wasn't designed to have it. Why buy a cub just to castrate it... when its cheaper just to port a set of stockers and get the same end result?

[Wiz]

"I don't want you to think that the bike won't run as it is now...it will.

But for the kind of power you're looking for based on those mods, a nice dune port on stockers will do just as well, and MUCH cheaper. Throw in that 4 mil crank in a stocker cylinder, they run very healthy."

 

 

So from what you are saying based on his mods, dune ported stockers will do just as well......hmmm are you sure???........

 

I have told you repatedly I was refering to DUNE ridding and Racing heads up stuff not classed off bracket racing, and by the way if you are bracket racing what does it matter how fast your bike is isn't it all about consistancy??

 

the point of this whole thread is that the cub motors will run strong with whatever pipe you put on them you can cater to your ridding style or how or where you ride with these motors....

 

you mean the Dm 4mil is bigger that the cub........really??? Leave the track one day there is a whole other world out there past 300'.