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no pressure in rear brakes


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I know how to bleed brakes i was making a point if there is fluid coming out the end you need to bleed the brakes and the tool just makes the job so much easier not to mention faster than the old fashion way .But to each there own

The way that you worded it the first time, sounded like you were opening the valve, and then "Pumping" the pedal. Pumping makes air go in the system. Didn't want people that don't know how to do it get confused. I know how the tool works, but in my opinion, and with my years of experience of being an ASE cretified technician, I've never had to use one of those tools. Pressure or gravity bleeding has always got the job done. Even with fluid having to go through ABS motors. The tool is mainly for one person bleeding, where you can't reach both the pedal and the bleeder at the same time. Example, a car. Not knocking your tool, but I just think it's a waste of money to buy one for a four wheeler.

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The way that you worded it the first time, sounded like you were opening the valve, and then "Pumping" the pedal. Pumping makes air go in the system. Didn't want people that don't know how to do it get confused. I know how the tool works, but in my opinion, and with my years of experience of being an ASE cretified technician, I've never had to use one of those tools. Pressure or gravity bleeding has always got the job done. Even with fluid having to go through ABS motors. The tool is mainly for one person bleeding, where you can't reach both the pedal and the bleeder at the same time. Example, a car. Not knocking your tool, but I just think it's a waste of money to buy one for a four wheeler.

 

Yeah i just assumed that most people are up to par on there mechanical skills.The reason i have the tool it was needed for vac testing the egr system on my mothers 92 honda .Tool sat around until i needed to bleed brakes on my mustang and works so well and fast i use it on all my bikes cars or trucks

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I have had the same problem bleeding my rear brake and i found that if used the bolt that connects the line to the caliper to bleed it instead of the bleeder it get all the air out, because it is the highest piont on the rear caliper and that is were the air is trapped at.It works for me.

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I have had the same problem bleeding my rear brake and i found that if used the bolt that connects the line to the caliper to bleed it instead of the bleeder it get all the air out, because it is the highest piont on the rear caliper and that is were the air is trapped at.It works for me.

wow that's wierd. :mellow: is your caliper mounted on the front of the axle on your swinger? mounted on the rear of the axle(stock mounting) the bleeder is @the highest point. still, you could try to remove the bottom caliper bolt and loosen the top to kick the caliper out far enough that the bleeder almost points up and bleed it. then, compress the caliper and bolt it back on. make sure to leave the pads on when you do this and never pry on the piston itself (if you don't already know that they chip easy) put it back on, pump it up, then tighten the e-brake adjuster enough to apply pressure on the disc (the bolt in the back of the caliper, not the cable) and pump it up again. then back the adjuster back out a couple of turns so the wheels moove freely and they should pump back up to normal now. if not, you could have junk in your master cylinder from when it mooved beyond it's normal range :thumbsup:

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well my rear brake line ripped in half last weekend during a ride. so i got an aftermarket line with two banjos and put it in. i bleed all the air from the line but still have zero pressure on the pedal. can anyone lead me in the right direction to solving this problem?

 

thanks

peter

 

 

wow finally got it what a pain

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