no pressure in rear brakes

[peterlocal22]

well my rear brake line ripped in half last weekend during a ride. so i got an aftermarket line with two banjos and put it in. i bleed all the air from the line but still have zero pressure on the pedal. can anyone lead me in the right direction to solving this problem?

 

thanks

peter

[dragbanshee]

So you bled all the air, and had brake fluid running out of the line also? You may want to keep bleeding them, it sounds like you still have air in them. Their a bitch to bleed, I thought the rear was going to be a piece of cake compared to the front but that wasn't the case, good luck.

[2001Stroker]

Maybe you can let them gravity bleed. Just open the bleeder valve and take off the resevoir cap. Put a catch pan under the brake caliper so it doesn't go everywhere. Keep an eye on it, and keep filling up the resevoir whenever it starts getting low. Let it bleed itself for at least 30 minutes. Don't worry, you won't be wasting alot of fluid. Gravity bleeding is a SLOW process. A plus side to it, you'll be getting all of your old burnt fluid out. I used to do it on Dodge's with ABS, if I didn't have the right OBD-II chip. Or, whenever I don't have someone elso to help me.

[peterlocal22]

well i let gravity take over and it works much better.

now is there anyway to adjust the brake lever so i dont have to push it so far down to engage the brake or is this all based on the pressure from the master cylinder?

thanks

[2001Stroker]

well i let gravity take over and it works much better.

now is there anyway to adjust the brake lever so i dont have to push it so far down to engage the brake or is this all based on the pressure from the master cylinder?

thanks

Adjust the clevis coming out of the master cylinder. Adjust it outward, so it will push up on the pedal. Just don't adjust it so far that it puts pressure to the rear brake.

[Skidmark]

I bent my rear caliper on my yfz once and it made feel like I had a lot of air in the lines. Check it too.

[colby72olds]

I have the same problem, except with my front. They worked fine until I got new braided lines. I bled them for about 5 minutes non-stop and they still wouldn't build up any pressure. I'll try the gravity bleeding when I get off work.

[flyhighprerunner]

you can also put the rear of the bike in the air, try putting a jack stand under it overnight and make sure that you tie something to your pedal too keep it held down, after you get home the next day crack the bleeder see what happens, if a lil fluid comes out pump up the brakes again and try that.....hopefully this helps i know it did for me!

[AKheathen]

you can also put the rear of the bike in the air, try putting a jack stand under it overnight and make sure that you tie something to your pedal too keep it held down, after you get home the next day crack the bleeder see what happens, if a lil fluid comes out pump up the brakes again and try that.....hopefully this helps i know it did for me!

try loosen up your caliper mounts when you pump them up, or even unbolt them. you can also get a speed bleader at the auto parts store(baisically a ckeck valve in the bleeder)

[PACIFIC NW BANSHEE]

well my rear brake line ripped in half last weekend during a ride. so i got an aftermarket line with two banjos and put it in. i bleed all the air from the line but still have zero pressure on the pedal. can anyone lead me in the right direction to solving this problem?

 

thanks

peter

 

OK cut thru the bullshit if you open bleeder valve and pump the brakes and have fluid pumping out you need to bleed the brakes . Here is a link to harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=39522 this should bring up a tool called the mityvac this thing is worth its weight in gold works great on cars bikes quads you name it .No more asking the wife to help you bleed the brakes .This is a one person operation just squeeze the hand pump and it bleeds the brakes with ease here is the part # ITEM 39522-8VGA

if link does not work .Trust me worth every penny in the long run good luck

[AKheathen]

OK cut thru the bullshit if you open bleeder valve and pump the brakes and have fluid pumping out you need to bleed the brakes . Here is a link to harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=39522 this should bring up a tool called the mityvac this thing is worth its weight in gold works great on cars bikes quads you name it .No more asking the wife to help you bleed the brakes .This is a one person operation just squeeze the hand pump and it bleeds the brakes with ease here is the part # ITEM 39522-8VGA

if link does not work .Trust me worth every penny in the long run good luck

holly shit dude! u gotta teach me how to make my shit smell like roses

[KaosBanshee44]

I hate bleeding the brakes it's such a pain in the ass.

[PACIFIC NW BANSHEE]

holly shit dude! u gotta teach me how to make my shit smell like roses

 

 

Not sure i know what you are getting at if you dont like the tool or what ??

[2001Stroker]

if you open bleeder valve and pump the brakes and have fluid pumping out you need to bleed the brakes .

You don't open the valve and then pump the brakes. That makes air suck into the system. That's probably why you have to buy that tool, cause you don't know how to do it right. Anybody can gravity bleed or pressure bleed a four wheeler by themselves. It doesn't take an act of god, or getting the wifey to help you. Here's a step by step instructional for both.

 

Pressure Bleeding:

1. Fill the resevior, and tighten cap. (Cap must be on to properly pressure bleed)

2. Pump the pedal/handle until you feel some pressure build up. (Should be at least 15-20 times for first bleed)

3. Hold the pedal/handle all the way down. (During the next step, the pedal/handle will lose all pressure. Keep holding it down)

4. Crack the bleeder valve slightly, where fluid can ooze out. (Do not open it so that fluid shoots across the room)

5. Slowly release the pedal/handle. (Doing it fast will cause air to backfeed, or enter through the resevior)

6. Check fluid. Refill and tighten cap.

7. Repeat steps 2-6, checking for bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleeder valve, each time that you repeat the process.

 

Gravity Bleeding:

1. Fill the resevior, and leave cap off. (Leaving cap on is like filling a bottle with water and flipping it over. It makes bubbles. Make a vent, and it flows)

2. Take the bleeder valve completely out of the caliper. (Allows for air to escape more easily)

3. Let the system bleed on it's own for approximately 30 minutes, refilling the resevior as needed.

4. Replace and tighten the bleeder valve.

5. To get maximum pedal/handle pressure, pressure bleed at least one time.

 

**During both processes, you can take a wrench and tap on the caliper, master cylinder, and hoses, to help push air bubbles to the bleeder. Both processes are a good way to bleed a brake system. If you follow the steps exactly for either one, and still can't get pressure, then do the other.**

[PACIFIC NW BANSHEE]

You don't open the valve and then pump the brakes. That makes air suck into the system. That's probably why you have to buy that tool, cause you don't know how to do it right. Anybody can gravity bleed or pressure bleed a four wheeler by themselves. It doesn't take an act of god, or getting the wifey to help you. Here's a step by step instructional for both.

 

Pressure Bleeding:

1. Fill the resevior, and tighten cap. (Cap must be on to properly pressure bleed)

2. Pump the pedal/handle until you feel some pressure build up. (Should be at least 15-20 times for first bleed)

3. Hold the pedal/handle all the way down. (During the next step, the pedal/handle will lose all pressure. Keep holding it down)

4. Crack the bleeder valve slightly, where fluid can ooze out. (Do not open it so that fluid shoots across the room)

5. Slowly release the pedal/handle. (Doing it fast will cause air to backfeed, or enter through the resevior)

6. Check fluid. Refill and tighten cap.

7. Repeat steps 2-6, checking for bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleeder valve, each time that you repeat the process.

 

Gravity Bleeding:

1. Fill the resevior, and leave cap off. (Leaving cap on is like filling a bottle with water and flipping it over. It makes bubbles. Make a vent, and it flows)

2. Take the bleeder valve completely out of the caliper. (Allows for air to escape more easily)

3. Let the system bleed on it's own for approximately 30 minutes, refilling the resevior as needed.

4. Replace and tighten the bleeder valve.

5. To get maximum pedal/handle pressure, pressure bleed at least one time.

 

**During both processes, you can take a wrench and tap on the caliper, master cylinder, and hoses, to help push air bubbles to the bleeder. Both processes are a good way to bleed a brake system. If you follow the steps exactly for either one, and still can't get pressure, then do the other.**

 

 

 

I know how to bleed brakes i was making a point if there is fluid coming out the end you need to bleed the brakes and the tool just makes the job so much easier not to mention faster than the old fashion way .But to each there own