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reverse cyl ypvs shee project


streetshee

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yes i would like more cubics too,ive got 2 choices to make,shees a longrod crank so i can either buy new longrod pistons for the pv cylinders and rebore them(at the moment there on second rebore),or use the pair of new 66mm blaster pistons which i have already then shee'l be circa 400cc but i then have no more rebore possabilitys and will need to resleave them,but then ill just go for even more cc's,is that a plan or should i not throw loads of rebore away?? cant decide,what would you do? im on a shoestring budgit too :confused:

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is your long rod crank a stroker as well?

 

if you are still only 54mm stroke, 66mm pistons will give you 370cc. once you got +4 stroke with the 66's you will have 400cc.

 

if you use wiseco blaster pistons, you should still be able to use 66.25 and 66.5 over-bores.

 

if you use blasters tho keep in mind you will need to cut the domes to suit and also the timing height of those pistons is 30thou shorter than a banshee piston, which will increase your durations considerably, especially your transfers. if your at stock transfer heights at the moment youll be fine other wise you can use thinner base gaskets to help combat the problem. (i run 66mm blaster pistons in my RZ for all the above reasons)

 

once you have done the mods to the cases to run the cyls in reverse, wont any top end bolt on there? ie you could bolt a cub or cheetah on backwards as well?

 

i would copy a set of CPI's or shearers, CPI's would be the easiest to measure and copy i reckon.

 

i also have PCDI-10V going into my RZ very soon. I have been running the VCDI/PPV/CDI set up but had a warranty issue without so Borut replaced with PCDI, cant wait to get it installed and back on the dyno!

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i would stay with the 2nd over piston size,stroker crank will give you the torque you need. then have the cylinders ported shee should haul ass then.

Edited by dirtfreak
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DSC00590.jpg

http://s355.photobucket.com/albums/r469/scoobyhunter/

ive been making my own sideways thrust water pump so i can modify the old pump cover with a 1.5" water outlet to feed to the front of the head(because the head is now backwards) and also to do away with the crap" through the cases" original way where you have to drop the water if the case needs to come off.im going to be epoxying the wasted areas around the pump and reshaping behind to give tighter tollerances so the pump will be more efficient.what do you guys think?

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DSC00541.jpg

i would personally use mag rods over epoxy and keep the flow rate conservative enough for heat transfer. too much flow rate doesn't allow the radiator to work well. idk what you want, but the stock stroke gives you mor high r ponnies, and the +4 yields more torque. at any rate, check out www.swaintech.com if you have time

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That is fucking brilliant! all you have to do is turn the pistons around and modify a pipe or have one made to shoot straight out the back without having to only select from a couple pipes that will clear the PV and not have giant chambers sticking out the sides. Having the air intake from the front will only make a minute difference, but will work better having cooler air blown right at it, and not warm air from being right behind the motor between pipes. just go with a stroker crank, till your 66`s fit and not waste the meat. Once they need to be sleeved, stick some 68mm sleeves in. Get the head cut for the stroke to and get the compression raised as well.

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so how long you think til your finished i've gotta see some pics of it finished! i bet it looks awesome tho. very different. even if you dont gain any power, for a ''street shee'', it is an awesome setup. i have never seen it before and i think it willl look awesome.! goood luck

 

OMG, burn those gay-ass raptor plastics.

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