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doing a rebuild


Tator

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Well I got my shee paid off, now puting money towrds a rebuild, well i have to last time I was on the sand i lost 2nd gear, thought no big deal time for a top end rebuild. pulled the head, one of my pistons had a busted skirt. I'm takeing my Cylenders into work tomarro to put them on a high tech measureing device to see how far out of round it is, hope i can get it out with a 20 over bore mesured the pistons and it was already 20 over so i will be 40 over, was thinking about a 4 mm crank, i'm gunna replace the crank berings while i have it apart. but what other mods should i make to my trans. I found the gears i think i need for 20 to 30 bucks a pice dont have motor torn all the way down yet so i'm going on a guess that i need 2nd gear and 2nd wheel. planned on a modded shift star. I was also wonder about how much it would cost to bore the cylenders. I was thinking about making a torqe plate and doing it myselfe I have a brideprot at my shed and a boring bar just no torqe plate cant be to hard to make. Thanks

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Required:

Pistons, Cool head o-rings, three-bond 1197, Gasket set, seal set and misc. tranny parts.

 

Recommended:

Wrist pin bearings, pancake bearing (cascade style), billet impellor and true/weld crank

 

I charge $45 per hole to do a bore/hone. If you stay with the short rod crank (513 series piston) then you may be able to go .030 over, but with the long rod cranks(795 series pistons) the pistons are only available in .020" increments. Don't confuse this with stroke, both 110 (short rod) and 115 (long rod) are available in stock stroke and +4mm stroke.

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Required:

Pistons, Cool head o-rings, three-bond 1197, Gasket set, seal set and misc. tranny parts.

 

Recommended:

Wrist pin bearings, pancake bearing (cascade style), billet impellor and true/weld crank

 

I charge $45 per hole to do a bore/hone. If you stay with the short rod crank (513 series piston) then you may be able to go .030 over, but with the long rod cranks(795 series pistons) the pistons are only available in .020" increments. Don't confuse this with stroke, both 110 (short rod) and 115 (long rod) are available in stock stroke and +4mm stroke.

 

Ya i knew about all the required stuff, Also planned on a Ricky Stator with adjustable timming plate, thought about turboing the crank also if i dont spend the 600 on a 4 mil. this is my first 2 stroke rebuild, but i have a cusion that use to race banshee's he said he would give me a hand, thanks for the info.

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well i split the case today, all the gears look good, I found one of the shift forks that had verry little wear on it, so i'm going to replace it, but on the shift rod the big spring looks to be worn and the adjustment screw that the spring rides on is worn to about 1/2 the diamater of the screw. I dont know if that would cause my problems with seccond gear or not but thats the only thing i could find that was showing wear. I will do a better check tomarro i forgot my calipers at work. the problem i had was only in seccond gear it would jump teeth but it wasnt the chain. it only did it under hard throttle :confused:

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hey man I work in ur town and have rebuilt a few of these joints. if ya need help hit me up I'll swing by and throw a wrench at it ;) needa hit up some riding sometime man the more shees in the group the better. theres 7 of us with them. only way to roll

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