skuddlebug Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 I am changing pistons and rings. When i took the head off, one dome was beat to hell so now I need to replace them. They say "22" on the side so I am asuming they are 22cc domes. I would like to go with 19 or 20cc domes. It has been bored .040 (1mm) over and is suppose to be stroked 4mm. everywhere i look online you can pick any size from 15 to 22 cc domes or the one for bored and stroked motors. can I just buy a set of 20cc domes and they work? They never say what size they are for bored and stroked motors. Here is a link to an example of what I'm talking about: http://www.motosport.com/atv/product/MODQU...HA;BANSHEE;2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 I would call noss machine. Once you start buying domes for anything other than a stock stroke and regular bore 64-66mm you should call some one. There is to many varables. Those domes that you linked says +4mill and big bore. Who knows what that means. Could be for 4 mill running 66mm banshee pistons 4mill running 66mm blaster pistons (different combustion chamber angle) Maybe they are ment for running a 421 cub. 421 cub doesnt require stroker domes, just big bore because the cylindders have a 2 mm taller deck high already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skuddlebug Posted October 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 It still has the stock cylinders but when i googled the numbers on the pistons (513m06500) it says they are wiseco 65mm (stock is 64 if im not mistaken) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 You dont need big bore domes then. 66mm is where the transfer happens. You can run a big bore dome or a standard bore dome with 66mm. So you need just a standard bore dome. Now you need to see if you have a stroker crank or not. Do the domes look deep. Like recessed 2 mm farther. Is 2mm thick spacer plate inbetween the cylinders and the crank case? No stroker crank you can just get an off the shelf dome. Stroker crank and a 2 mm thick spacer plate under the cylinders you still run standard domes Stroker crank and no spacer plate then you need a pair of domes that are recessed 2mm so the the piston doesnt hit the dome. 4 mill crank will cause the piston to pop out 2mm out of the top of the cylinders, and fall 2 mm farther down in to the cylinders. If I was guessing I would say you dont have a stroker crank. Most stroker cranks are long rod strokers. They do make a standard rod stroker but it isnt as common as a long rod stroker. Your running 513m06500 pistons. Wich is a standard 65.00mm banshee piston. If you were running a long rod crank you would have 795m06500 pistons. 795 series pistons are for long rod cranks. Both stock stroke and 4 mill long rod stroker crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skuddlebug Posted October 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 I think you pretty much answed my question. I didn't have any spacers. heres a pic of the one that got beat to death. its not a very good pic tho.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 I think you pretty much answed my question. I didn't have any spacers. heres a pic of the one that got beat to death. its not a very good pic tho.... Yea it is beat. Looks like a standard dome will work. There isnt enough material machined out of the domes to be a cut stroker dome. You can still give noss a call. He is a good guy to deal with and BHQ members get 10% off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 Could you post another pic of the oring grove on the domes. A standard bore dome will have a groove for the o ring to set in. A Big Bore dome will only have part of the groove. The ouside part will be missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skuddlebug Posted October 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 it has a groove for the o-ring to sit in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skuddlebug Posted October 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skuddlebug Posted October 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 one more question....I think i read somewhere that the smaller the cc of the dome to more you lose at top end (and also need higher octane gas). is that correct? I had 22cc domes and my top end would scream! I was keeping up with traffic on the interstate but kept bogging down and had to keep it reved up on trails in the woods. so I would like to have a little more low end power but not give up to much on speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrMeyer Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 one more question....I think i read somewhere that the smaller the cc of the dome to more you lose at top end (and also need higher octane gas). is that correct? I had 22cc domes and my top end would scream! I was keeping up with traffic on the interstate but kept bogging down and had to keep it reved up on trails in the woods. so I would like to have a little more low end power but not give up to much on speed. Let everyone on here know what you have for mods and they can start you in the direction for getting what you want out of your bike. And the smaller the cc' the higher the oct. And let them know what kind of gas your wanting to run and where you live for ALT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedder Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 Whoa...Lets back up here. Is that old damage? Whats pictured is exactly what you get when a crank bearing starts to disintegrate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 Whoa...Lets back up here. Is that old damage?Whats pictured is exactly what you get when a crank bearing starts to disintegrate. EXACTLY..you need to diagnose what caused this, not just replace the dome. Looks like deto, or metal (i.e. pieces of a bearing) in the cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 I might add, if the cylinder wasn't damaged, it has to be deto. Bearings/foreign material would damage the cylinder wall, piston and head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skuddlebug Posted October 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 I think its old and just put back on. the piston looked fine other than carbon build-up and there were no scratches on the walls. and the dome itself was rough as you can tell but it didnt have shape edges, it felt like it has been like that for awhile. as for mods...it doesnt appear to be stroked but it has been bored .040 (1mm) over, 29 mm keihin carbs, fmf fatty pipes, boost bottle, new holeshot HD front and back. as far as altitude....who knows. (east TN) cleared trails and open field riding. 91 is about the highest octane pump gas around here, there are a few with 93 tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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