trex banshee Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 my biggest fault right now is my crank isnt welded...lol my squish is way off at like .63 so i only got like 150lbs comp ...thats why i can run the timing around +10 with 18 domes question is do i correct the squish to .40 and up the compression to around 175-180lbs,back the timing to +7 then spray??? or leave it as is and spray on 150lbs comp and leave the timing at +10?? i was only gonna spray 10 each side... both my bikes are running around 145-150psi and are +10 timing...squish is .0415" and .047" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboybanshee Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 both my bikes are running around 145-150psi and are +10 timing...squish is .0415" and .047" Try that +10 timing w/ nitrous and you'll be in for a nice surprise!! lol :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 Try that +10 timing w/ nitrous and you'll be in for a nice surprise!! lol :biggrin: haha really, what is the most you wanna run with nitrous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 now that i think about it, if i remember correctly when my brother ran nitrous on his mudracer i think he had to retard the timing or maybe just not run near as much timing as he would if he wasn't sprayin it. Is this correct? What timing would i run with nitrous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quadgod211 Posted October 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 i have always heard that when running nos back the timming down around 3 degreesfrom what you normally run.. with alky though it looks like the bike would love the timing and compression with the high rated fuel??? my cub pulls real hard on top end with the timing cranked up so it should pull even harder with it being not advanced as much with the higher comp wouldnt it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quadgod211 Posted October 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 also whats some of the ways you guys are running your nitrous buttons??? the guys down here weld a tab on there thumb throttle arm that bumps the micro switch mounted on top of the throttle....i was curious though if i could wire it up to my dyna rev box that way when the clutch is pulled in the bike can hit the limiter and when released the kit can come on and as for coming up the shut down you would just have to turn the main switch to the soleniods off and idle back to the line no probs... anyone else think this would work seeing that i run a twist throttle,,so not alot of options other then hitting a button with my thumb somwhere on the bars.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lt1bird Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scrip...p?idproduct=174 I use the dynotune kits.....Thier standard solenoids will work with any fuel including methanol, alchy etc.......others will swell the seal and the fuel noid will not open... WOT is a bit tricky....without a button........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboybanshee Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 I personally wouldn't run anything higher than +7, but that's my opinion. Also depends on which ignition you run and what curve (if applicable) you're using. I ran up to a 30 shot w/ 7 degrees advance on the plate and it was great...you may be able to run higher, but I never tried it, therefore I can't recommend it...if any of you want to experiment on your own bike, feel free to pass on the results :smile: As far as the switch, I ran a WOT switch in my throttle housing, so whenever it was pinned it was spraying. If you have a rev limiter, you'll have to wire your nitrous in series with the WOT switch and a clutch lever switch or something...if you don't, it'll be spraying intermittently as it's bouncing off the limiter and you'll be putting on a light show for the crowd when you let it go, lol. You'll blow something up for sure Pics of my old setup should be posted on here somewhere, probably could do a search and find it if you're interested...Purge setup, fuel pump, battery, solenoid mounts, bottle mount, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quadgod211 Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 ok guys what about a dry kit.... could a guy run his powerjets up enuff to compensate for the dry shot??? i mean the needle or pilot jet would be left alone so when you are staging up that your bike wouldnt be so rich it would flood out...and when you are 100% on the throttle the powerjet takes over and blends with the dry shot.. start at like 5hp per hole and start turning the powerjet up and keep checking plugs till you see its to lean or whatever.. what do you all think also i have a friend with a 10mill cub that run a 3.76 in the left lane at planet sand and he put a wet kit on his bike the other day and tryed it over the weekend and as soon as he got on the botton the bike just died out???? what would cuase this?he was only spraying around 12 perside,just enuff to maybe get him in the high 60's but with no luck..lol he also said that even with the kit off,,his bike was laying down on the big end which isnt normal for him and thats all he changed.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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