Tim Potteiger Posted October 10, 2008 Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 Take the cap off and look at the coolant in the radiator while the bike is idling. Rev the motor and see if coolant begins pushing back up through the top. If it is, then it isn't just the cap. Those caps rarely go bad. If water is pushing up through the top and overflowing as soon as you start the motor, then it is likely that you have a head gasket issue. If it takes a few minutes of running to start overflowing, then I would check your impeller. If the impeller is broken, then you would hear sizzling in the cylinders after running the bike for a minute or 2 then shutting it off. As for your popping problem--cleaning the carbs won't remedy this usually. Popping could be an electrical short, carb slides installed improperly--ARE THE SLIDE CUTAWAYS TO THE REAR FOR THE LAST TIME? Slide cutaways to the front will cause popping and erratic throttle conditions. You have never answered that question, nor the radiator check question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 I started it today with the cap off, I didn't have alot of time, but it didn't start overflowing. I let it idle for like a minute, and still wasn't overflowing. I would say that if I would have let it run for a bit longer it would have over flowed. I will check it again tomorrow when I have a bit more time. As far as the popping, what do you mean by the slide cutaways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 (edited) the slide cutaway is the angle cutout on the bottom of the throttle slide. the throttle slide is the barrel looking thing, that slides up and down in your carb when throttle is pulled or let go. it has the angular cutout on it at the bottom of it. that angular cutout has to face the airbox. check for it asap and report back. here's a link to a pic of the throttle slide and the cutout....notice on the left of the slide at the bottom, there is that angular cutaway that i was talking about. that has to face the airbox, when the slide is installed in the carb. there is also a right and left slide tho. http://www.dansmc.com/slide1.jpg Edited October 11, 2008 by mopar1rules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 Ok I got to go to work, I get off at 930 tonight. But I checked the water, and after a couple of minutes it starts comming out. Ill check out the other thing when I get off, thanks for the help so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrMeyer Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 what fuel oct and oil mix are you running? And when you pulled the rad cap, can you see the coolant moving? it also sounds like you might have a small leak in the head gasket if it is over pressing... the smallest hole will allow air in the cooling system under compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 (edited) on my lunch break 93 fuel 32:1 same as always I kind of wonder if the popping could be bad gas? well its down just a little ways, and when its running its like bubbling from vibration, and it will get a little higher and it will go through the the little hose...ill take a video of it later. Edited October 11, 2008 by Mat Holland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Alright, well I looked at my carbs, and It looks like they are out of sync. I adjusted one of my idle screws because one was comming up before the other one. I got them close to even by sight, and It doesn't seem to pop. But, how do you sync them manually? I don't have the tors. I'm working on checking out the impeller, i took the water cover off, and it looks like not all of the fins are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrMeyer Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 here is a how to on Youtube on sync the carbs. I was doing what you are doing now and i just broke down and got a vw carb sync off ebay for $30.00 shipped. here is the tool im talking about http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carb-Sync-A...emZ190214862784 and the youtube how..pt1 and pt2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Thanks man, I am definatly buying that. Just asked him if he would take 29.00 for it shipped. I got my impeller out, and I snapped a picture of it. I don't know how they are supposed to look. But either way I believe that I am going to buy the Pro Designs one, to replace the plastic one, and apparantly they cool better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Whoops, I forgot to add the pic, and its too late to edit it. Well, Heres the pic http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1012081146ea7.jpg I bought the Pro Designs impeller, along with the 2 gaskets, and a set of outerwears clamp on K&n Air filter, and the carb. Sync tool as well. Hopefully that will fix everything. What does the impeller look like to you guys? I don't know how it is supposed to look so does it look bad?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akita8 Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 The stockers all get discolored and brittle. You made the right move and bought a billet impeller. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Potteiger Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 (edited) I actually went back to a stock impeller after the Pro Design broke in less than 10 hours time. When you are watching the coolant in the radiator, you need to rev the motor too. If there is pressure in the system, it will do much more than just vibrate and splash a bit. It will rapidly rise to the overflow. Popping will not stop by syncing the carbs. That is most likely a totally different problem. A banshee will run with the carbs out of sync, just not very well. Installing those slides backwards WILL cause popping and erratic throttle conditions. Edited October 13, 2008 by Tim Potteiger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 could I have a picture of what the slide is supposed to look like in the carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NitroTate Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 could I have a picture of what the slide is supposed to look like in the carb? Here, I took that past picture and added some explaination to it for you. I'm the guy who did the 1st link carb sync video from a previous post. tate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 I took a look at my slides, and they have the cutout facing the rear of the quad. I do know that when I adjusted my carbs by the little eyelette on the carbs and you match the little black piece, it seem like it ran alot better, and i know its still not perfect. So I am hoping that it takes care of that when I sync it. Is there anything else that I can check? Should I do a pressure test on the banshee? Also, another question, I bought the clamp on outerwears k&n air filters for stock carbs, that eliminate the airbox, will I have to rejet with those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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