plasticookie Posted September 17, 2008 Report Share Posted September 17, 2008 Here's the deal I do a lot of trail riding so im mostly looking for bottom to midrange power, but I dont wanna give up too much top end...I already have FMF pipes and Boysen reeds...Ive done some research & from what ive read in these forums the best mods i could do, short of porting, would be: Air filter(ditch the lid), adjust timing +4, cool heads & domes, jet kit, front sprocket, and im open for anything I might've left out...Here's my questions, what are your suggestion on the best air filters/kits? How exactly will an adjustible timing plate affect the performance and durability over the long run? how much difference would there be in getting cool heads & domes vs shaving the stock head? jet kit, im clueless??? Should i change the sprocket or would that sacrifice more speed than its worth? & lastly will this put too much strain on a stock crank? Sorry I know that's a lot questions, but I just wanna be sure im making the right decisions before I do anything. Im open for anything???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted September 17, 2008 Report Share Posted September 17, 2008 Porting is the next huge step in power after pipes these other mods help out but wont be as big of a power increase as a port job. You can get the cylinders ported to your riding style. I would emagine a strong mid range is more important to you than top end drag racing power. Yea you can shave your stock head and it will do the same thing a cool head will do. I cool head doenst really help cool much better. It does help but it doesnt cure overheating problems. You need to shoot for 150 psi compression with around +4 deg of timing and still be able to run pump premium fuel. If you want to run more timing and more compression then you have to start mixing pump fuel with high octane race fuel. 150 psi with +4 timing wont hurt relabilty. It really helps out in the midrange. As for filters do you ride in mud or water? I would recomend running K&N Pod filters if you dont. They are individual filters that you clamp straight on the carbs. It makes jetting much easier. You just take the fiter off to get at the carbs instead of having to remove that pice of crap air box each time. Most people dont run a jet kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted September 17, 2008 Report Share Posted September 17, 2008 Jbooker pretty much covered everything there, just gonna add a couple cents... Jet kits are a waste of money, just buy a range of main jets in the range you need, pilots if you need 'em, and adjust the needle and airscrews. Takes some effort to dial in but it's worth it. Air filter depends on your conditions, really fine, powdery dust will get past a K&N, but I still prefer them for ease of cleaning/oiling and airflow. A foam filter will resist water entry better and will catch dust better, but you'll sacrifice some airflow and it may load up faster. In either case I prefer the single with no airbox lid, gives you some protection from mud/water/whatever and still flows plenty good (I never removed the airbox to rejet, just push the carb back to compress the airbox boot, turn it out of the reed cage boot, and pull it out). Advancing the timing will give you a little more power everywhere from off idle up. 4 Degrees of advance shouldn't cause any issues as long as your jetting is good and you're not way high on compression and running low octane fuel. Think of it as overcoming one of the "detuning" things the factory does so average joe doesn't meltdown the motor on the first ride after putting 60 octane in it and revving to 9k right after kicking it to life. Shaving the stock head vs. aftermarket head...not much real difference there but there are advantages to both. Stock head shave is way cheaper, easier to install (one head gasket not multiple o-rings), and the cooling capacity is debatably the exact same. Aftermarket head allows you to change domes whenever you want, and also lets you just change dome(s) alone if you blow a piston (stock head you'll likely have to replace the whole thing), plus there's the bling factor. Your call. Changing the front sprocket makes a pretty big difference, bear in mind when you lower the gearing (smaller front or larger rear) you move the power lower...the gears will feel shorter and top speed will be lower, but it will get moving in a hurry. If you rarely hit 6th try it and see if it suits your riding area, if you're constantly trying to shift into 7th don't go smaller on the front, try a 15T instead. If you're happy with your top speed where it is now leave it alone and focus on making more power where you need it instead (personally I'd up the compression first, it will make a noticable difference in low end torque). IMHO I wouldn't worry about the stock crank letting go until you get into porting and/or really high compression. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticookie Posted September 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2008 What all will i need and how hard will it be to increase the timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted September 17, 2008 Report Share Posted September 17, 2008 Slot mounting holes on stock stator plate=free (if ya got a dremel and a carbide cutter) Degree key=I dunno what are they like $25 from Vito's? Aftermarket adjustable timing plate=$125-ish right? Fuck I dunno they gotta be online somewhere @ Cascade or RMA. All of the above=flywheel puller, 14mm wrench for LH footpeg bolts, 12mm (maybe 10mm) wrench for shift lever, big-ass phillips for stator cover screws and stator screws (impact screwdriver if they are stubborn/stripped, 10mm on stator plate if you can wedge or custom bend the bastard in there), penetrating oil and lots of cursing to get the flywheel off if it decides to be a bitch, blue loctite for stator bolts, never-sieze optional on the crank snout and stator cover screws...I'd call it a 3-4 beer job :happy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjv420 Posted September 17, 2008 Report Share Posted September 17, 2008 Getting the flywheel off without a flywheel puller was a 24 beer job for me. If you do take the flywheel off get a damn puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticookie Posted September 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2008 Beer and banshee are 2 words that should never be used in the sentence :biggrin: lol...but thanx guys, uve been a lot of help...im a jackass so ill probably be back with more questions l8r. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted September 18, 2008 Report Share Posted September 18, 2008 Slot mounting holes on stock stator plate=free (if ya got a dremel and a carbide cutter) Degree key=I dunno what are they like $25 from Vito's? Aftermarket adjustable timing plate=$125-ish right? Fuck I dunno they gotta be online somewhere @ Cascade or RMA. All of the above=flywheel puller, 14mm wrench for LH footpeg bolts, 12mm (maybe 10mm) wrench for shift lever, big-ass phillips for stator cover screws and stator screws (impact screwdriver if they are stubborn/stripped, 10mm on stator plate if you can wedge or custom bend the bastard in there), penetrating oil and lots of cursing to get the flywheel off if it decides to be a bitch, blue loctite for stator bolts, never-sieze optional on the crank snout and stator cover screws...I'd call it a 3-4 beer job :happy: Adjustable timing plate = $35 on ebay for a cast one / $100 for billet. $15 for flywheel puller. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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