quikshee Posted September 15, 2008 Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 Well today I got my shee out warmed it up and tried to take off and it bogged way down and almost stalled, I had to rev it pretty high to keep it movin. After a slow lap around the yard and a bit of sluggishness at about 1/4 throttle, a grinding noise started (Sounds like metal on metal) from the engine area. It only seems to do it at a low speed and RPM and its only every so often, part of me wants to think shee's gettin ready to blow since it's a 95 and still on the factory bore and pistons but another makes me think it's the clutch because of the way it bogs when i try to take off from a stop. I have a compression tester but its from Harbor Freight so i don't know how reliable it is, the last time i checked it had 115psi in the left and 113psi in the right and that was about 3-4 rides ago. I'm running 320 mains, needle on 3rd clip from top, 27.5 pilot and 2-2.5 turns out on air screw (not exactly sure how many) about 650 ASL If anyone has a clue as to what this horrible noise could be, let me know Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted September 15, 2008 Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 (edited) Well today I got my shee out warmed it up and tried to take off and it bogged way down and almost stalled, I had to rev it pretty high to keep it movin. After a slow lap around the yard and a bit of sluggishness at about 1/4 throttle, a grinding noise started (Sounds like metal on metal) from the engine area. It only seems to do it at a low speed and RPM and its only every so often, part of me wants to think shee's gettin ready to blow since it's a 95 and still on the factory bore and pistons but another makes me think it's the clutch because of the way it bogs when i try to take off from a stop. I have a compression tester but its from Harbor Freight so i don't know how reliable it is, the last time i checked it had 115psi in the left and 113psi in the right and that was about 3-4 rides ago. I'm running 320 mains, needle on 3rd clip from top, 27.5 pilot and 2-2.5 turns out on air screw (not exactly sure how many) about 650 ASL If anyone has a clue as to what this horrible noise could be, let me know Thanks Check to see what your current compression is now... Also does it make this noise in Nuetral, or only when its in gear? Regardless metal-on-metal noise is never good. Maybe a bearing has shit the bed, ir something is your clutch has given up? I'm sure some guys on here with more experience will have some input... Dont ride it until you get it figured out or it could cost you more $$ than it might right now... Good luck! Also use the Harbour Freight tester. Although it may not be accurate it will give you an indication on whether or not your are losing compression based on the previous readings you took with it... Edited September 15, 2008 by mdhc500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quikshee Posted September 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 It seems to only do it when i'm moving, is it better to check the compression when the engine is cold or warm?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ranger Posted September 15, 2008 Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 A compression test is typically done on a warm engine at operating temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quikshee Posted September 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 Ok, I did the test and the left came out at 110 and the right at 105. I haven't ridden it much since I put my mods on, just been tuning. I took her out for a few hours one day and stomped some trx450's and a kfx 400. It's only been started and tooled around the yard a few times since and now it's making the rubbing noise. After i did the comp. test i put her back together and started it up. It runs great, when i'm slowly moving it starts the grinding noise again but only once in a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ranger Posted September 15, 2008 Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 Have you checked the fluid level in the gearbox? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quikshee Posted September 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 That'd be the one on the right side with the dipstick right???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ranger Posted September 15, 2008 Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 Yes, that is the one. The manual says the oil level inspection steps are: 1. Place machine on level place. 2. Warm up the engine for several minutes and then shut off. 3. Completely remove the dipstick. (Wipe it clean while out.) 4. Insert the dipstick (do not screw it in) and then pull it back out. 5. Check if the oil level is between the maximum and minimum level marking. If it is low add oil until it is at the proper level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 A compression test is typically done on a warm engine at operating temperature. A compression test should be done on a cold engine, wet cylinders, at WOT... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ranger Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 A compression test should be done on a cold engine, wet cylinders, at WOT... I stand corrected (kind of). Most 4 strokes recommend testing on a warm engine. 2 strokes tend to be cold. I don't have my Clymer manual in front of me so I don't know what they say. In either case you are looking to make sure there is not a large difference between cylinder and that they are not too low. If I remember right it has to be 90-95psi to make the cylinder fire. And definitely test at WOT or your readings will be way off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim80_57 Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 A compression test should be done on a cold engine, wet cylinders, at WOT... Never heard of doing a compression test on a cold motor of any sort...unless of course it won't start. I am no expert on banshee's but that is my .02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quikshee Posted September 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 I did the compression test and they came out 110 in the left and 105 in the right, i'm prolly gettin close to a new top end i'm guessing??? I pulled out the dipstick and it's not all the way up on the crosshatched area, should i add more??? What kind of gear oil should i use??? I'm thinkin about goin with some royal purple 80w, whatcha guys think???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ranger Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 If I remember right the tolerance for compression difference is like 10%. So, if you have 105 in one cylinder that means the other could be +-10.5psi. So 95-115psi would be the max. I don't think I would let mine get that far apart but yours is only 5% so you should be okay for now. You definitely need to add fluid!!! Get it up to the top of the crosshatched area! Mine got low once (many years ago) and I also heard a horrible squealing. I was not even terribly low but adding fluid got rid of it. As far as fluid type you will find many opinions. ATF type F, 10-30 motor oil (suggested by the manual), and gear oil. You will have to make the call. My suggestion would be to decide on one, drain your gearbox, then fill er' up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlotzBanshee Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 Compression tests are usually done after the motor has reached operating temperature to allow the pistons and rings to expand, although I have done test on my motor warm and cold with no real difference between the two. As long as your rings are seated you should get a fairly accurate reading. I recommend Bel Ray Gear Saver 80w. You would probably be fine with Royal Purple; I use it in my truck. But you want something specifically designed for wet type clutches for the crank case in the shee. Also, I my experience, its better to have a little extra fluid in the case than be a little low. I keep it just over the ring above the crosshatched part on the dip stick (or 1.6 quarts). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ranger Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 I recommend Bel Ray Gear Saver 80w. You would probably be fine with Royal Purple; I use it in my truck. But you want something specifically designed for wet type clutches for the crank case in the shee. Also, I my experience, its better to have a little extra fluid in the case than be a little low. I keep it just over the ring above the crosshatched part on the dip stick (or 1.6 quarts). That is about where I keep mine as well and have had no trouble with it since I started doing that. I personally use ATF Type F but I don't have a problem with 10-30 or gear oil either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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